Voltage Sag

Hey Guys,

I have been wanting to use a mech mod for quite some time now. But I didn’t want to rush into things, given that they can be dangerous if not used properly.

To prepare I have studied ohm’s law and have a pretty decent grasp on it. And have a calculator app on my phone.

I have checked out Mooch’s battery recommendations and have a good idea of what batteries to use and which to avoid.

I still do have a few questions I was hoping an experienced Mech user could help me answer:

- What would be the “sweet spot” as far as resistance and safety go for a dual coil set up? Obviously I want to go as low as possible and have a hard hitting vape. But I also want to be safe. I plan to use a dual 18650 Parallel mod (The Clutch X18). I would be most likely be using Sony Murata batteries as I cant find any Samsungs where i live. I’m thinking somewhere around 0.17-0.2? Or would it be safe to go lower than that? I will of course test my build on an ohm reader and regulated mod before throwing it on the mech to be safe.

- Are there any other general safety tips? Ive heard that you want to screw the Atty down all the way first, before inserting the batteries. And then insert the batteries. And when removing the batteries i heard you want to slightly unscrew the atty first, and then carefully remove the batteries? Can anyone please confirm if this is correct.

- Is its safe to chain vape on a dual 18650 parallel mod? When I say chain vape I mean like maybe taking 5-6 big hits back to back. Then waiting 3-5 minutes, dripping some juice and then doing another 5-6 hits.

- Is there anything I should be monitoring while I’m vaping? Like the heat of the batteries? From what I’ve read, the batteries drain quite fast on a mech. And after some experience you will just kind of know when they need charging because the vape experience changes. Is there anything I’m missing? Or something i should be looking out for?

- I can only vape in my kitchen. And sometimes there might be a little bit of water on the counter from someone’s drink sweating, or drops after someone washed their hands etc. Is this a risk? I will of course do my best to keep all surfaces dry. I’m not talking about large amounts of water or submerging or getting the mod really wet. But just what one might find on a kitchen counter.

- Any other tips you could throw my way would be great!

Thanks in advance!  

I know with regulated mods it doesn't really matter, but I'm just curious. How can I tell if my regulated mod works in series or parallel. I have the Aegis Legend 200W.  

so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.

I also have the aromamizer titan.

What gauge would you Clapton?

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk  

So weird question. On my 18650 Paragon I do not have a dry hit problem on my Mutation, but on my 18650 Parallel Dimitri box, after 2-3 hits, with smacked wick it is dry. I have a problem with my switch on my Dimitri where the voltage sometimes is not constant.

I'm thinking somehow this may be the problem, but any help is really appreciated.

Thanks  

I currently have a series box mod but was looking into getting a parallel. I'm looking for something that's either simple and clean looking or unique design and clean. However both to be good in performance? Or is every parallel box mod the same?  

I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.

The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.

This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.  

I have tried this a couple of different ways in other threads, without really getting edumucated completely.

One more try. I generally consult that Power Chart 2.0 to identify safe vape ranges for different resistances.
Some say that those charts do not apply when there are two coils in parallel. I don't understand how. At the end of the day, the resistance is the resistance.

Anyway, is there a chart anywhere that can identify Safe vape ranges for different resistances - when the coil design is not single but dual, in parallel.

My clearo, by the way, is a dual coil Eleaf GS Air. I love what it does in the safe range, but when I occasionally cheat and push it up a bit, I Do get more vapor and flavor. But, I don't want to be doing it if it isn't safe. [aka firing hot enough to generate formaldehyde, etc.]
Eleaf says it is designed for 3.5v to 5.5v. But then again, any company citing specs is focused on selling, not necessarily my safety/health.

Anyone have a genuine factual answer?  

So I built a twisted build out of nichrome 60 wire and tried it on a triple series 18650 mechanical box and it melted the coils why won't nichrome work with any series boxes 8.4 volt melted 12.6 volt melted but I can build a .06 nichrome build and run it on my mech tube mod and it handles it I can build .15 and run it at 150 watts on my Sigelei and it handles it but bump up the voltage and it melts don't get it. I ran a .30 nichrome build at 260 watts on a SMY 260 and had no failure of the coil so I'm puzzled why a series mech box desemates the coils?  

Hey everyone. I got my triton today. Going to load up 2 geysers on it, as it is a dual atty, parallel battery mod. My question is this, does this setup draw individual powers from a dedicated battery to the atty atop it, or is the parallel power running both attys, in which case what should I know about building my rdas for this setup? Can I have 2 different resistences, 1 for each rda? I did see this in a video and thought why would anyone do that? Also, does this change the allowable resistence? I'm using 35A batteries (mxjo) so the math suggests .12 as the lowest safest res single battery. (I rarely dip below .3). And no i don't want to start a discussion on whether or not those are actually LG's lol. I'm aware of all that hubub. Thanks!

Sent from a cool but overpriced phone on TapaCrack at yo mama's house.  

When calculating builds on Steam Engine for parallel builds, is the wrap count the total of wraps counting each strand, or total wraps for the unit of strands?

Example: I want build X using 2 parallel strands of 28g Kanthal, and for my given resistance, SE says use 14 wraps. Is that 7 wraps with parallel wires, or 14 wraps counting the parallel wires as a single wire?

Thanks in advance, guys. I'm trying to experiment with some creative builds and I want to waste as little wire as I can on missed resistance.