Got no idea what this thing falls into...
The MechLyfe Ratel 80W (8.5V). It uses an external 18650 battery and it uses an RTA build deck. I’m not sure if you can use pre-made coils for it though. You can use it in both DTL and MTL but with MTL it’s loose draw. You can’t adjust the airflow on the fly, you have to take the panels off to make the airflow adjustments.
The build deck looks nice and simple to build on. You might get away with fitting in an alien coil.
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
I used to build new coils every night on RDA. Sub ohm tanks with coil heads became a thing and I transitioned to sub ohm tanks with replaceable coil heads. I put an old school 5 wrap kanthal build on my origen 1 the other day. I’m just wondering if anyone out there is still building RDA’s or is that a thing of the past?
I’m curious as to why you shouldn’t do DL when using nic salts. I’ve got an Aegis Hero with a 0.6 coil at 15 watts. Even with the airflow closed off, it’s still to loose for a MTL. I keep reading and hearing I shouldn’t use nic salts for DL. The worst thing I’ve experienced so far is a mild headache. The nic salt is a 30mg.
Thanks in advance. ECF is my only true support group and I’m having a really hard time not smoking the stinkiest. Been back to vaping for about a month, and keep telling myself it’s all about baby steps. Not how many I smoke but how many I don’t smoke. I’ve got to quit for health reasons.
so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.
I also have the aromamizer titan.
What gauge would you Clapton?
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Hi. I have just purchased the heavy hitter mech mod.
The coils I bought are wotofo .28 dual core fused claptons.
It is a asgard mini RDA, it will be a dual coil build , so resistance should be .14
Will a Samsung 40t battery be ok with this build.
In regards to saftey and amp draw.
Thanks
First off, I would like to say that I’m very new to vaping. I started off with a JUUL, then a Smok Novo 2, and eventually got sick of buying pods.
Now I have a Hellvape MD, and an Ares 2 - the first provides better flavor, but it’s still not comparable to what I was getting in my pod systems. I just recently purchased a BP Mods Pioneer, and I’m hoping that gives me better results. I’m using an Aegis Mini for a mod.
I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong, because it’s really frustrating to spend all this money for worse flavor, when I was hoping it would let me save money.
I have about 40 bottles of salt nic flavors that are 50 or 35 mg, and a couple 3mg freebase I bought (120ml for $7 seemed like a steal). I would really like to get away from the salt nic, but I seem to get even worse flavor from the 3mg.
I’m using 2.5ID 28ga SS316L round wire from Master Wire Supply (I have a spool) with Puffs Organic Cotton. My coils are usually .7ohms, but I’ve tried up to 1ohm. I’ve also tried 1 ohm Vandy Vape Superfine MTL fused claptons, and experienced similar results.
I’m using the MD with the most restrictive airflow settings (3 small hole airflow disk), low (2-3) adjustable AFC setting. I have my coil as low as possible to the airflow, and I have thinned / fluffed my wicks.
I haven’t tried adjusting the airflow below the coil on the Ares 2, because the video instructions say wide open airflow below the coil is the best for flavor (I have found the opposite to be true for the MD).
Can someone provide me more insight?
Will 2mm ID coils with the same amount of wraps taste better than 2.5? Do coil ohms do anything for flavor, or does it only change how fast it heats up? Will I lose flavor if my coils hang outside the diameter of the airflow disk?
Is there a certain type of coil that would give me better flavor than regular round wire?
I use TC at 420F 20 watts
Any kind of feedback is appreciated and if I left anything out or you have questions about my set up that could help me out please ask! I’m at a loss on what to do, and it seems like no amount of research is helping
Ok so i recently made my little Hana clone with a genuine DNA 40 and so decided to buy myself a Squape R clone to use on it. as a novice to the world of RBA/RTA/RDA's this was my first foray and i thought I'd give my opinions/review/thoughts
1st making the clone - I'm not a novice with soldering and so i found the board easy to work with as long as i had the guide in front of me to work it all out. The Cigabuy Hana Enclosure was good as well with reasonable switches DNAsled etc.
BUT.... the 510 connector is crap! i had to fit it in with a hammer, its centre pin (non adjustable) catches and shorts on my aerotank when screwed on fully and to even get that far i had to modify it by removing the white plastic insulating ring and replace it with 2 sizes of heat shrink on top of each other.
other than that i put the up and down buttons in the wrong way round - but i'm leaving that element of stupidity as it makes it mine.
the Squape R clone or Traingle windows atomizer as it is from fast tech,
.... Fasttech takes ages BLAH BLAH BLAH .....
ok so it seems well made, no leaks from the windows no shorts on the deck, good click on the airflow,
but, neither the w or c decks fit the thing, at all, and i'm not hammering it in!!
so thats the bits about the equipment
now onto vaping,
1) wrapping coils is a PITA to start with! it looks easy, everyone makes it seem easy, but its fricken not every coil i wrapped was more like a spring than a coil!
2) when i started i had no idea how much is a reasonable wick, either using too much and it looking like a rabbit ran into a mousehole or when juiced in, looking like a bedraggled pathetic thing on the deck dead.
3) It was easier to make a coil with Nickel than Kanthal
4) once i had a coil built that worked, the squape leaked unti i realised i had to tuck the cotton into the channels on the deck.
5) vaping is very different on an RTA to a kanger tank, you have to pre click your button to let some vape build or the cloud is dry and hurts my throat, with a one second pre-hit i get what everyone is taking about - warm, moist cloud full of flavour!
6) temperature control is a PITA - yet more variables to play with to get it right, but once it is right it works, yup it works for me
So to round up i went from an MVP 20W on an aerotank with 1.8 ohm coild to a DNA 40 with Nickel coils vaping at approx 0.18 Ohms, i've still not found my perfect vape but i'm getting there, now to learn how to wrap coils, then move on to each new idea
Its a steep learning curve but i think worth the niggles, sore dry throat and PITA's of learning everything again.
Everything that I have read so far says that you want to use spaced coils when working with Ni200. Will the coils not work as well if you use contact coils? I am asking because I have a Goblin RTA and it has a small build deck and Im not sure if I will be able to fit spaced coils in it (also, I have never made a spaced coil lol)
Thanks for your help guys!
Hello
I have the wotofo serpent rta top airflow single coil tank now and I just purchased the augvape druga rta. Flavor is 100% better in the augvape drugA rta but juice leaks out the bottom of the tank every time which is why I have to stay with top airflow as it never has leaked on me. So I’m looking for a top airflow rta single coil . I typically vape between 20-30watts so I don’t need a powerhouse. I just want the flavor and don’t care about clouds. Can anyone recommend the best top airflow rta? The wotofo serpent works well but it takes a hit on flavor. The serpent only has 2 small air holes around the coil area and I think this is why it isn’t producing a good vape. I was looking at the Zeus? Augvape intake of the dual one? Or any others anyone can recommend ?
primary goal: outstanding flavor
No leaking
Lots of air holes around the coil
thanks for your time
Hi,
I just tried to TC vaping - and it’s awesome!
it was harder to build the coil, took me couple of tries, but once I reached R of 1.3, everything started to work.
I used 26awg wire SS316L (that’s what they had ready in the store).
I have no dry hits - at all, it’s just perfect. It’s like having on the fly automatically adjusted curve!
I do have one small problem- 1 out of 10 mod firing - (almost) nothing happens.
is it a problem (not good chip/mod, wire, else?), or is it intended? (Coil overheated, wick is dry, else?). But that’s a small nuisance - I wait 10 seconds and wape again no problem.
what I still don’t understand - why I was always told at the stores “don’t TC vape - it’s the old way, now VW is the way to go” without any explanation.
So far I have a feeling that it was done exclusively in stores interest:
- because they know it’s harder to built, so they didn’t want to have a complaining customer “it does not work”, because the mods for tc probably cost more so it’s tougher sell, and they wanted to sell me more coils, wick, juice...
are there other reasons against TC? (Safety, medical reasons (idk - SS wire releases particles or something - seems unlikely (I know with Ti and Ni you should be causious)), else?
I continue to research this topic as well, online, YouTube, etc, but so far I found nothing against, except what I already mentioned (mainly it’s a bit harder to build the coils).
Would appreciate your opinions!
regards,
Vadim
ps. I use EHPRO Cold Steel 100 mod, Siren 2 MTL RTA.