Hello There. I Have A Frew Questions.

So I bought a DNA chip and made my mod, now I've got a bit of a bug lol.

So I've still got wires, a Sony vct5 switches and a charging board, but now I want to make another, but I don't want to spend the same out on a chip set,

Any ideas on a cheap reliable chipset for making another mod?  

Hey vapers.

Wanted to start a thread for discussing the DNA 250c chip, all of its features, options, performance, etc.

I started this threat to not only begin a discussion about the DNA 250c chip, but to also share something with new users that may prolong the life of their batteries.

With battery life, I mean the number of charge cycles it'll take before noticeable decline in performance, and general battery health. My advice of setting the cutoff voltage higher will shorten actual run time.

I've noticed that 'out of the box' the DNA 250c is set to soft cutoff the battery at 2.75 volts.
This results in a 3.00 volt reading on my charger when I get the batteries out.

This, in the opinion of many, is too low for batteries to go, and especially to remain there for any length of time.

So, I want to share with you how to change the settings so that your mod will cease using the battery at 3.1 volts, which results in your battery resting at a healthier 3.35 volts.

Here's how :


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Click the image for a larger view.

Basically, in Escribe, go to Options, then User Interface, then Advanced. Select Mod tab, and then Battery tab. There you will see the 2.75 volt setting, and you should change that to 3.1 volts. Upload setting to device, and you're done.

The DNA 250c comes with a wide array of options and customized performance.

I'd love for people to chime in and share their tips and expertise with Escribe and the DNA 250c chip.

So let's hear t !

P.S. When will Evolv update Escribe to list 21700 batteries ?




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I've been messing with my mech mod, got it working ok. No danger. I also found some of my last 22ga kanthal and made me a pair of my all time favorite coils. 7 wraps on 3mm. Just plain Jane, round wire coils that for me, have performed famously every time I make them. I also got myself a new toy, voopoo drag 2 platinum. Same chip as the original drag I think and since I gave that one away last year, I'd forgotten how responsive that chip is. Quite nice. And I still have the switcher. So now, all at once it seems, i have 3 working mods and feeling pleased with myself. Playing mix and match too, put my dead rabbit on the tsunami mech and using the tsunami rda on the switcher. That's the one I just put the 22ga kanthal on and yeppers its kickin'. Just gotta work the new cotton taste out of it. Maybe I'll pop an ant down in there for old times sake. Or not. The memory is still fresh. And another thing, just a couple months away will mark 3 yrs in my vaping journey. I want to thank all my friends on the forum here who have helped me along the way, answered questions, and generally put up with me all this time now. And I truly believe I'd rather vape an ant as to smoke a cigarette. Not that i actually will again, the ant was kinda gross really when I think about it. But all in all, yep. Vape on.  

I've been tempted by temp control. I am an avid mech user. I love my REO. I love my SMPL. I love my G-box. I have a 40w VF clone (no temp control), but I haven't been using it that much. My local B&M now sells The VaporShark rDNA40, but is temp control really worth it? I've been having a heluva time with my subtanks - they always taste burnt now even at low wattage. Would the nickel be any better?
The other thing is, if it's worth it, do I replace the chip in my VF with a real chip with the temp control (I really stink at soldering) or just say to heck with it and get a Shark?
Need input...lots of input. lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

I have had a lot of mis fires on my Smokless Owl 25.00 squonker and had to press down extra hard

and sometimes side ways to get it to fire.

I just done some contact cleaning and scraping on the Smokless Owl Button.

I took my wifes Emory board finger nail file thingy and depressed the firing button and held it depressed and rubbed it

across the firing pin and then took a small jewlers screwdriver and scratched it back and forth across the end of the pin and

did the same thing to botton ground pin.

I noticed some black color on the end of the firing pin before I started this cleaning process.

I gently took the screw driver and scratched back and forth across the positive and negative end of the battery just to

take any small film or oxidation from the ends just to make a better connection.

It seems to fire now just like it should with no MISFIRES---mod is now perfect !  

Hi,

I just tried to TC vaping - and it’s awesome!

it was harder to build the coil, took me couple of tries, but once I reached R of 1.3, everything started to work.
I used 26awg wire SS316L (that’s what they had ready in the store).
I have no dry hits - at all, it’s just perfect. It’s like having on the fly automatically adjusted curve!

I do have one small problem- 1 out of 10 mod firing - (almost) nothing happens.
is it a problem (not good chip/mod, wire, else?), or is it intended? (Coil overheated, wick is dry, else?). But that’s a small nuisance - I wait 10 seconds and wape again no problem.

what I still don’t understand - why I was always told at the stores “don’t TC vape - it’s the old way, now VW is the way to go” without any explanation.
So far I have a feeling that it was done exclusively in stores interest:
- because they know it’s harder to built, so they didn’t want to have a complaining customer “it does not work”, because the mods for tc probably cost more so it’s tougher sell, and they wanted to sell me more coils, wick, juice...

are there other reasons against TC? (Safety, medical reasons (idk - SS wire releases particles or something - seems unlikely (I know with Ti and Ni you should be causious)), else?

I continue to research this topic as well, online, YouTube, etc, but so far I found nothing against, except what I already mentioned (mainly it’s a bit harder to build the coils).

Would appreciate your opinions!

regards,
Vadim

ps. I use EHPRO Cold Steel 100 mod, Siren 2 MTL RTA.  

I ordered a SXmini SL class with the sx485j chip and it recommends a 35a battery. I only use .15ohm coils at 60 watts so I should be good with a samsung 18650-35E right? Going to buy 21700 batteries once these start losing their charge because I just got them recently..  

Some people build and drive them. Others do this:
400w 80A Delta - Imgur

Specs:

80A/400W Delta Delphi DC/DC Converter with custom designed breakout board Red Powdercoat Diecast Aluminum Hammond 1590BBS and N52 Magnetic Door IRLB3034PBF MOSFET switching Venom 3S 40C 2200mAh LiPo Battery Pack with XT60 connector Low Profile FatDaddy v4 Spring loaded 510 connector  

With a nearly full scale banishment on electronic devices being a real possibility, I'm looking into stocking up to sustain myself for at least a while. I have a few questions and I'm sure others so as well and thought a thread on the subject could prove useful.

First, nicotine. What is the better, longest lasting base to get with nicotine VG or PG ? And I assume freezing is the optimal preservation method?

Secondly, equipment. Obviously full mechanical mods are the best bet for long term, heavy duty use... But what is the best material between stainless steel, copper, brass, etc (for a combination of longevity and low maintenance)? What is the best material for the contacts?

What about regulated mods? I would love to own a parallel 18650 mod that could stand the test of time. Are there any that have a very simple design on the inside that could be easily fixed (wires coming loose or chip needing replaced etc)?

Then, finally, atomizers. Is the best course of action just to find your favorite and buy a high quantity or are there RTAs and RBAs out there that are built to last and are constructed with quality materials that could last years with good care?

Thanks for anyone's advice/experience in advanced, and feel free to use this thread to ask related questions yourself.  

I posted this in another user's smok m80 thread. I hope it's ok to post here too. I'm really concerned, and would like to know if this has happened to anyone else. Here is the post unaltered:

I loved the device at first, but now I am scared to use it. I had an Atlantis 2 on it, and at first, it consistently read the ohms as .39. Then it started jumping all over the place from puff to puff. It went anywhere from .39 to 1.2, always different with each puff. At one point, it even changed the watts on its own (it kept dropping them down from around 30 to around 25; it did stop doing this). So I put my kanger Subtank nano on it, at 24 watts. It read anywhere from .55 to 1.5. Then, on the last puff before I shut the device off, it read 2.62 and burned my throat really bad at 24 watts. Since it reads different with each puff, and I don't get the new reading until after I've hit the button, I cannot check what it will be before I've inhaled. I've been vaping for years, and never felt anything like this. My chest hurts, and my throat feels very sore. Contacting the vendor now, but I don't know that I would even want to use one ever again. This was scary for me. The device had the updated chip, and was not even used for more than a half a charge. (The two tanks are fine on my other mods.)

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