Attn Uwell Caliburn Users

Hi I'm waiting for a uwell caliburn g vape to be delivered does anyone know roughly when the coils and pods need changing on them thank you  

So, here's the deal. My new mod was delivered today. I knew it had a fixed stainless 510 connector, but I wasn't worried. Anyway, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but the tank keeps coming loose on the mod. I know I am probably not cranking it down tight enough, but I am afraid of going too tight and screwing up the threads.

So, I am looking for an adaptor that has a spring loaded pin on both sides. Spring loaded on the battery side and spring loaded on the atty side. Is there such a thing? I would also prefer that this is 22mm wide. Any ideas?  

Hi
I got myself second Caliburn and from the start I feel that auto firing is not as fast as my first one, just like a second or so behind. If I use the button it seems to be OK.

Also, it feels more airy. I check the same pod on both devices and first one seems to have a bit more restrictive airflow. Or, due to late auto firing, I am inhaling first clean air instead of vape, and thus, the feeling of less restrictive airflow.

And lastly, which is not a problem, but it is not feeling OK, second Caliburn pod latching thing feels more loose, where on the first, when I push pod into the slot, I can feel and hear distinctive click, on the second, just a very little bump and very shallow click.

Would first, auto fire delay constitute good grounds for warranty replacement? I got it less than a week ago.

Any thoughts?  

Okay you all helped me out tremendously, but now I have a new problem. I ordered and received a UWell D2 RTA. I unboxed it and built using the original coils that came with, everything was great and it worked perfectly. This morning I took it apart to change the cotton. Put it all back together went to go take a puff and got pretty much what felt like a quarter bottle of juice in my mouth. Took it apart and redid it, same scenario, took it apart again same scenario, took it apart of third time, check to make sure all gaskets where in place and they are put it back together and got an absolute Mouse full of juice again. Does anybody know about this RTA that can help me out please? I am at my wit's end with this thing, when I did it the first time everything was perfect and I loved it worked perfectly. I've already wasted a tremendous amount of juice trying to do this.  

So I'm using a juice that is pretty sticky. So sticky that when I squeeze the dropper to create suction I have to actually wait like 3 seconds before the air escapes the tube and longer for it to fill with juice.

So when I'm vaping this, the vape seems to be a bit on the weak side and I think its because of the wicking. could anyone advise me on how to wick my coils? (ex. more/less constricted inside, more/less in juice well)

The setup inside my RDA is dual 24g coils with an internal diameter of ~2mm with resistance ~0.2 ohms. Wicked very lightly constricted and just long enough to make a full contact with the juice well on both sides.  

Over the last 24 month or so, mods became bigger and bigger due to increasing sizes of batteries and comically large tank attys. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the fact that I only need to change the battery and fill the tank once per day, that's awesome, however, some of those devices got to a point where they became not very portable anymore... Gone is the time in which the mod can be put in the pockets of your pants.
So, as far as I'm concerned, I got realy tired of those huge mods and went back to one of my first mods, no VV no VW no temperature control.... Its the REO mini..... Super small and tough as nails.
After a while I kept looking for something comparable but a non squonker mod. I found the Ministick with the 18650 extension.
I have it now for a few weeks and I'm sooooo happy with it.
It's just a tad larger than the REO mini but it carries the 18650 battery and the Kayfun V4. This mod would be quite a bit smaller than the REO mini if I take the battery extension off, which is very impressive.
I will very likely never buy another regular tube or box mod just due to its size.
I see only pros for side by sides, they are the perfect combination between small size and good battery/tank capacity, so I'm naturally wondering why they are so little loved?
What is your point of view?  

Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?

This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.

Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.

- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.

- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.

- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.

- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.

- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).

- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.

- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.

- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.

- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.

- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).

If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.  

I don't know if anyone has issues with their protank 2 but I hear a lot more negative than positive on them. I was messing with one of those bootleg ones and I couldn't figure out why it kept on leaking. Now just yesterday a friend gave me his protank 2 and Im guessing it was because he was tired of it leaking. When I first took it apart I took all the pieces off and connected them all again one by one making sure it was air tight as I added each piece. Everything was air tight until I got to the coil. I was taking a drag off it and it immediately started leaking and I was like why the heck does it do that? I noticed that it was leaking from between the coil and atomizer where the two little airholes are. What I did to fix this was take an old coil and gently pull off the little silicone ring (above where it says the ohms and below the wick) then I dropped it into where the coil meets the atomizer. After I just screwed in my coil and it works perfectly. No leaking whats so ever! Very good cloud production so far I recommend trying this if you have one. Sorry if someone already wrote this but I did a lot of looking around and never found an answer. Also didnt know where to post this so I apologize if this is the wrong section.  

Starting from a clean - authentic nautilus mini - with a brand new 1.6 (or 1.8 it makes no difference) coil (coils also verified as authentic).

1. Turn tank upside down - with tip removed and fill with juice.
2. Take base unit and set so no air holes are open.
3. Put a tiny bit of juice around the o ring of the base unit (i get the issues if I do this or not)
4. Put 2 small drops of juice into the coil (I get the issues if do this or not)
5. Screw the coil into the base unit (as tight as you can comfortably get it without going past the obvious stop point and damaging something)
6. Screw the coil/base unit into the tank.
7. Turn nautilus mini correct way up.
8. Move air hole to a middle setting.
9. Take some primer puffs with no power.
10. Leave standing for 5-10 mins.
11. Begin vaping gently at 6 watts - moving up slowly to 10.

Ive tried all types of juice - both high VG and high PG and in-between. Invariably at some point i start to get the gurgle. Ive tried the following fixes:

1. Using a paper towel blow gently out of the air hole to get rid of juice - doesn't work - if i kept on blowing id blow the whole tank of juice out.
2. Take the unit apart - most times there will be juice in the base unit underneath where the coil sits - dry this out - dry the coil off and repeat from step 2 above missing out steps 3 and 4. - this sometimes works but its a temporary fix.

There seems to be no pattern to the problem. Sometimes the gurgle starts as soon as ive changed the coil - sometimes its ok for a week. I have 2 units and 2 spare tanks and have rotated them all using the above method - still get the issues.

I have actually never experienced the burnt taste or reduced draw because Ive always got sick and binned the coil before that point.

I am vaping generally at 9.2 watts - but have tried as low as 7 and as high as 13 - it makes no difference.

I don't draw hard - I cannot understand why I keep getting juice in the air chamber - its not a problem with a "dud coil" unless they are all intermittently dud coils - they are all authentic aspire and I've bought them from different places - so its not a dodgy batch issue - the rings are all the correct way up - I have spent hours and hours researching to try to fix these issues - and cannot for the life of me maintain a stable nautilus mini.

Can anyone save me from madness and tell me what Im doing wrong - Im tending towards a conclusion of all nautilus mini components are junk at the moment.

Many thanks in advance  

Hello everyone! My fathers birthday is coming up soon and I'm looking to get him something new to vape on.

He's currently using the Itaste MVP 2.0 and sadly its dying, the only problem is that when he drives it's hard to hit the button. I want to find him a similar one with either a built in battery or replaceable battery's, and the button on the sides not the front or back face. If you guys can help me out that would be awesome thanks so much for the help.