while waiting for my juice, which should be in the mail shortly, i decided to familiarize myself a little more with my brand new and first device, a pico istick 75. i wanted to become familiar with how to select modes, temp, watts, etc. so i went to youtube and picked:
as mike was clicking through the menu, I was following along step by step. and at one point, he was demonstrating the procedure for displaying the firmware version, which i wanted to see. a few clicks later i became familiar with the smell you get when you hit the fire button on a dry tank.
glad i bought more coils,
but i got the firmware version. yea! anybody know how to do the upgrade?
i forgot to mention the most important part. the reason i mucked up is i had left the tank on. mike's was detached,
Imgur version of post with all charts and analysis he imgur.com/a/vc6hvEr
Eleaft iStick Pico 75 - TC bang for buck that is remarkable - Temperature Control Testing ResultsArctic Fox Firmware 190624 Stock SS316 Profile : Vaping
The attached is the first of 7 charts/states tested and does not represent overall performance - see IMGUR or Reddit for full report and analysis, or the TLDR summary. See a full list of mods tested so far, at the bottom of the full post for comparison.
TLDR: I bought this little mod for merely $15 bucks in a sale, and yet other than one (repeatedly tested) very different outcome for a (rarely realistic) completely dry MTL coil, it performs very well as a temperature control device, with good power (unless youre a very high mass dual coil vaper, in which case you need a dual cell mod), tight and accurate temperature control that is arguably largely comparable to DNA in most states (see imgur.com/a/EOL9hRE for current DNA series comparison). Its hard to beat in terms of price for performance...lets see how the stock firmware compares in an upcoming test. This Arctic Fox firmware provides a lot of the functionality of a DNA device, its free, and its compatible with a lot of Eleaf, Wismec and Joyetech mods! More testing required to see if it holds up across that range.
When I first started vaping I always swore off building and dripping. I liked the ease of filling and vaping away. About 3 weeks ago I picked up my first rda. (Mutation x v4) it was ok and it leaked something awful so I set it aside. Well after watching mike vapes review of the troll I decided to pick it up. Just got it in today and threw a dual coil 24 gauge build in it. .came out to .34 ohms and vaping it at 60 watts on my m class. I haven't been able to put it down. I think I'm officially hooked on building and dripping. So glad I picked up this rda. Juice well is deep, holds lots of juice. For anyone who has been considering it, I'd recommend you pick it up. Here's a pic of my setup just for fun. I love my M class too! Vape on my friends!
So I dropped by brand new MVP. I had the Eleaf Melo tank installed when it hit the ground. Didn't see how it landed or anything. But when I picked it up and tried to vape the resistance reads "-.-". The device seemed to be fine, so I thought maybe the coil or tank fell out of wack and tried it on my iStick 50w. It worked fine!
So obviously it must be the MVP then?? I installed another Melo that I bought and it works fine on the MVP. But after disassembling the older Melo (that was originally on the MVP) and putting back together it still will not fire on the MVP, just the iStick. I tried playing with the center pin on the Melo but have had no luck.
So what the heck is going on?
I make the choice that I'm certain I'll be vaping forever. I figured since I enjoy it, I'm gonna learn everything I want to know and make it a hobby.
Me being a perfectionist, I decided it was time to piece together a setup that was not only powerful, but pleasing to the eyes.
After much consideration, I made the choice to not go sub ohm. I instead decided a higher power, higher ohm setup would please me.
So this is what I ended up with.
Aspire CF VV 1600MAH battery. Instead of rocking a VV+ most people use, I went the route I did to get 600 more MAH battery and didn't care about the beauty ring because after all, my Aspire K1 tank is a backup now and can't be used with the VV+
The tank had to be good too. This was where I wanted to upgrade the most. I wanted adjustable airflow, and better coils.
The Nautilus Mini was the only clear choice. 2ml is fine for me as I switch flavors now and then, and the new redesigned OCC coils you can purchase was a selling point.
I've been using the setup since last night, and WOW!!! This tank brings the flavor through in ways I never thought possible. Also, the vapor production is amazing to me. I don't care about cloud chasing so by my standards this is a fog machine at higher voltage lol.
Overall with 5 additional spare coils I'm about 65$ in this setup and that's a bargain. It performs so well.
Also wanna throw out that GWAR Spew from MBV is friggin amazing in this tank!!!!
My first .5 OCC coil only lasted 3 days . I put my device up to 25 watts and it totally fried it. A terrible burnt hit. I backed it back down to 20 watts and it was fine for a little while, but then another bad burnt hit. Down to 15 watts and I literally sucked hot particles in my mouth when taking a hit. ...? The cotton and/or coils are literally breaking apart? That's totally gross and I can only imagine, not that safe.
My second .5 OCC, I never put my device above 17 watts, keeping it at 15 watts for the most part. Within 4 days, same thing ... total burnt hit one day, sucking up hot particles the next?
What's going on? I thought I was supposed to be able to hit a .5 coil up to 30 watts ... Is sucking up hot particles from the coil normal? Should I just keep it at 12 to 15 watts and that's it, taking 1 to 2 second drags and that's it? Is it just a string of bad coils?
Thanks
EDIT: Thought I should mention that the juice I used for both coils was 50/50 watermelon. I hear it's better to use higher VG liquids with sub ohm tanks. But can that be part of the reason why the coils are being fried so quickly?
Hello, I'm new to the forum and have an important question. Can someone send me the original firmware of the snowwolf vfeng Squonk? I accidentally installed the wrong firmware and now my battery does not start anymore. I have not yet received a response from snowwolf directly from the support. Hope you can help me. Sorry if my english is not so good i use google translator. Thanks and greetings Chriss
Hi everybody, I have lost track of new vaping gear and need an advice.
Finally one of my mods died. The newest one, Joyetech eVic Primo. Bad from the beginning (because of its faulty protection) it just stopped working. Another mod should die soon. It is a clone of iStick 30, 4+ years old. It's my best mode, but its battery already is at about of half capacity (after about 1500 charges).
So, now I use iStick 30, iStick Pico 25 and iStick Pico. Tanks (from best to worst) Kayfun 5, Siren 2, Ammit, OBS Engine NANO.
I need a new mod and, possibly, a new tank.
Thanks for reading.
Is not that much time ago that I joined this community in a desperate attempt to find out what was wrong with my "just bought e-go starter kit" cause I was getting burn taste, just to find out that I purchased a cheap e-go battery with some cheap ce4 tank, and discovered that this was gonna be a journey to success, I'm still probably in the same page but just with a little twist of knowledge (not much btw) but thanks to the ppl in this forum I decided to keep going up, today just wanted to share some of my journey (still in progress) and show some pictures of my evolution...
Hope you like it
My Cheap Starter Kit
My Next step
Then a little upgrade
And today's addition...
Thank you to all who helped me... Now is time to read some Ohm Laws and jump to the next!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Starting from a clean - authentic nautilus mini - with a brand new 1.6 (or 1.8 it makes no difference) coil (coils also verified as authentic).
1. Turn tank upside down - with tip removed and fill with juice.
2. Take base unit and set so no air holes are open.
3. Put a tiny bit of juice around the o ring of the base unit (i get the issues if I do this or not)
4. Put 2 small drops of juice into the coil (I get the issues if do this or not)
5. Screw the coil into the base unit (as tight as you can comfortably get it without going past the obvious stop point and damaging something)
6. Screw the coil/base unit into the tank.
7. Turn nautilus mini correct way up.
8. Move air hole to a middle setting.
9. Take some primer puffs with no power.
10. Leave standing for 5-10 mins.
11. Begin vaping gently at 6 watts - moving up slowly to 10.
Ive tried all types of juice - both high VG and high PG and in-between. Invariably at some point i start to get the gurgle. Ive tried the following fixes:
1. Using a paper towel blow gently out of the air hole to get rid of juice - doesn't work - if i kept on blowing id blow the whole tank of juice out.
2. Take the unit apart - most times there will be juice in the base unit underneath where the coil sits - dry this out - dry the coil off and repeat from step 2 above missing out steps 3 and 4. - this sometimes works but its a temporary fix.
There seems to be no pattern to the problem. Sometimes the gurgle starts as soon as ive changed the coil - sometimes its ok for a week. I have 2 units and 2 spare tanks and have rotated them all using the above method - still get the issues.
I have actually never experienced the burnt taste or reduced draw because Ive always got sick and binned the coil before that point.
I am vaping generally at 9.2 watts - but have tried as low as 7 and as high as 13 - it makes no difference.
I don't draw hard - I cannot understand why I keep getting juice in the air chamber - its not a problem with a "dud coil" unless they are all intermittently dud coils - they are all authentic aspire and I've bought them from different places - so its not a dodgy batch issue - the rings are all the correct way up - I have spent hours and hours researching to try to fix these issues - and cannot for the life of me maintain a stable nautilus mini.
Can anyone save me from madness and tell me what Im doing wrong - Im tending towards a conclusion of all nautilus mini components are junk at the moment.
Many thanks in advance
I can only get about a 1-2 day life span out of coils that are organic cotton based. After 1-2 days, they start seeping a dark colored liquid into my tank and ruining the juice. This has happened in my Atlantis tank running Melo coils vaping at 32 watts and my Herakles tank running 55 watts. Keep in mind I vape about 7-10ml a day. Juices are 70VG/30PG or 80VG/20PG all at 3mg nic.
On the flip side, if I vape old school Atlantis coils at 32 watts on the same juices, I get a full week before this happens.
Any ideas on how to make cotton coils last longer?! For this reason, I can't wait to get my Lemo 2 in. I'll be able to rewick daily and not worry about cost.
The way things are going, I am losing so much money on coils it's nuts. See picture to see whats happening.
Oh yeah, this is happening on all kinds of juices I vape. Mt Baker Vapor, Vista Vapors, 4 Pillars, The Milk Man. Some are budget juices - others are premium. No matter what juice I use, it happens.
The BIGGEST killer is Zeus Juice with 80%PG, 20%VG. This juice kills a coil in one tank full. I'm guessing the sweeteners in that juice do it.
It's frustrating because I LOVE my Herakles tank running at 55W but if I have to replace the coil every 1-2 days, that's SO expensive.