Random Questions About Terms And Numbers

I'm very curious about what certain terms and numbers mean and how they came to be.
Here's a few that come to mind:
RY4
18650 battery (18 x 65mm?)
510 thread
510 (and 810) drip tip (both the number and the term)
Atomizer (it's not like it actually reduces liquids to atoms)
Delrin
ceramic coil (the heating element, wick or both)
Squonk
OLED screen
Tootle puffer
Steeping (like making tea?)
Velocity deck
Fused clapton, alien, ect.
Resistance wire (what makes it different than other wire?)
PEEK insulator
Terpenes
Coil break-in (not how to, but what does it actually do)
Feel free to answer and/or ask more questions.  


Similar Content



Round Wire Vs Fused Clapton

I’m a mouth to lung vapor and currently using the holic rda and galaxies rdta. I’ve tried using ni80 round wire and superfine mtl fused Clapton ni80 wire. The round wire is so easy to work with and the superfine is harder but I’m getting the hang of it. My question is with coils that ohm out the same with each wire I get flat flavor with the round wire and the flavor definitely pops with the fused Clapton wire. Is this normal? Same juice, same wattage, same ohms and same rda and squonk.
I love working with the round wire but not worth it if I can’t get better flavor.  

Are You A Tootle Puffer??

Hi everyone!

Ok, you've seen the term on a few threads now, and you've scratched your head thinking...... "What in the world is a Tootle Puffer?!?!"


You're not alone. Many are wondering. Yet, there are a several people who know exactly what it means, and have smiled their way into the Tootle Puffers Club.


Let's have some fun. Let's find out who actually IS a Tootle Puffer, and let's define it!*




Are YOU a Tootle Puffer? What does that mean!!!







*And before you ask, no, I'm NOT making another spreadsheet!  

Coils For Cloud Beast?

Where can I buy just the Clapton coils or wire for my SmokeTech Cloud Beast. I’ve been using the rebuildable coil for 2 years and it’s always been at .3 ohms. Over the last week it has slowly gone up to .52 so I took it apart and saw that the putter wire is degrading.

They are Clapton, correct? Or fused Clapton?  

Atomizer Gets Hot

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

Suggest/link Me Wire (tc, Non Tc, Round, Exotic, Mtl, Etc)

I have a dna75 single 18650 that I take out with me.
I just ordered a bunch of small'ish MTL clones to use with it (Spica, Prime, V5, Millie, Gate).

I also have a DNA250C triple 18650 that I use at home.

I never used TC and don't really want to learn it nor power curves but might have to learn that later if I feel the need to. I already prefer and am grateful for escribe customization so maybe TC and curves won't be a PITA to add.

I couldn't get DNA250C's idiot-proof Replay Mode to work the one time I tried it with a dual SS fused clapton (others have had this problem, maybe it was the tank I was using).

For DNA250C bigger builds, I just ordered an Aromamizer V2 Plus RTA. And a Fatality 25mm. Fatality I might also use on the DNA75 with a smaller coil so battery easily lasts a day.


I'm guessing for the smaller MTL tanks to get round 316L if I do TC, and for wattage mode some Kanthal. I'm OK with even buying a DNA75C for Replay mode if the MOD is small sized though.

I really don't like ramp up time even with smaller coils, so maybe I should just learn TC and get 316L wire? For the DNA250C builds, ramp up would be long but I'm hoping Replay Mode will easily solve that.

Not sure which gauges.

And/or maybe for the MTL smaller builds get some thin clapton or something besides round? I don't want to kill the battery fast though but am OK with smaller puffs.


I already have some all-SS 316L Geek Vape Fused Clapton 26ga * 2 + 30ga, so that should be good for the bigger builds and Replay.



Thank you  

What Is Your Favorite Single Coil Build On A 3.7 Volt Device ?

What is your go to single coil build in terms of gauge wire, diameter, and number of wraps : (no fancy Clapton or twisted build just a "regular" wrap)

And if you have a reason please include it: For example: "I'm a flavor junkie and this is best flavor build I've found" or "I like short ramp up times" etc ...

(I know preferences may vary greatly)

Thank you very much

:


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk  

I Have Graduated.... In Two Ways!!

I am once again a happy vaper!!!! Ecstatic to be exact.

Graduation number one:

I have just very successfully rebuilt my first Nautilus BVC coil. Wasn't even as difficult as I thought it would be and didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would. I am now a forever rebuilder! I was a little worried because I didn't have any wire or filler material here, or so I thought. However, as I posted in the wick and coil section I literally tripped over an old hair blow dryer in my bedroom and did some research and discovered that the heating elements in them are nichrome wire.

I tore that sucker apart and uncoiled all the nichrome wire in it and discovered two things. One, there was actually three different gauges of nichrome in this particular hair dryer, all three kind of close in gauge. Second, different strand of gauge came out to about 20 feet or more each, so I ended up with over 60 feet of nichrome free. Below is a pic of the three strands, the strands go from the thickest gauge on the left to the thinnest on the right:


So I had my wire but needed filler. I was gonna use this medical gauze I have here but wasn't sure if it was pure cotton or not as there was nothing on the box that said what it is made of. But then my cute little neighbor knocked on my door and asked to borrow a screw driver. I obliged her and on a hunch, her being female and all, I asked if she used those round cotton pads to remove her makeup. She does and gave me a partial pack of about 50. Wooo Hooo, off the the races....

So I queued up Hawkeye's Aspire BVC Rebuild video on Youtube and got to work. I very carefully took apart the 1.8 ohm head that came with my Nautilus and saw what I believe was the problem with it. See the pic below:



OK, I'm a newb and all.... But that black wick doesn't look right, it looks like it's been burnt. I may be wrong and someone can correct me if so. I only used this once and only got maybe 2 vapes on it before I got the flashing dashes. Plus, while the coil is stretched out here, I did that after disassembling it. I carefully removed the wick from the coil and it was in the two pieces as shown in the epic. They were kind of touching each other inside the wick, but it seems like the wick burnt out and separated or maybe they had broke during manufacturing, or packing, or whatever... At any rate, it does indeed look like a defective coil.

So, I watch Hawkeye's video and build along with him and am very proud to say I believe I rebuilt this coil pretty damn well, you can tell me from the pic:



Is it just me, or is that one sexy looking rebuilt BVC? I used the thinnest gauge nichrome from the pic above and followed Hawkeye's method with the exception of giving my coil three extra wraps. I should have taken a pic of it.... Oh well.

So, with the coil rebuilt I grabbed a beer, put my Nautilus back together with the new rebuild, filled my tank and fired it up. BAZINGA!!!! She fired up at 2.1 ohms!!!! I was aiming for 1.6, but the three extra wraps probably added the extra from what I've read here on amount of ohms to coil wraps and wire gauge. I've now been happily vaping away for the past two and a half hours and the ohms are sticking between 2.0 and 1.9 with the odd jump to 1.7.

I gotta say here too, this is even better than the original Nautilus BVC. Now I understand why people rave about cotton and DIY rebuilds and such. I'm getting a lot more flavor, a much better throat and lung hit, and an awesome natural draw, and I'm not getting that sizzling/gurgling noise I was getting with the stock heads. Which leads me to my second graduation.....

I have broken the Tootle Puffer barrier and am now vaping at 28 watts. Hey, I don't mind Tootle Puffing, but I do like the bigger hit I get with the higher wattage. Been hitting this thing pretty hard though LOL. I never broke down and went back to the stinkys while my unit was down, and a big part of that was because I actually missed my vaping more than the stinkys.... I think a small part was also because I got so preoccupied with solving the issue with my hardware I didn't have time to think about stinkys.

Again, I want to thank everyone who helped out in my original thread about the problem. I love this place man!!!! I'm now a lifer both here and to vaping. Now I can't wait to get more equipment and also start doing DIY juices.  

Attention Lemo 2 Users...

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

Atomizers... Your Nemesis

I needed an extra 510 drip tip for an atomizer (someone gave a used one with no tip) I had been sharing one from another tank (atomizer... tank is easier to type) so I dug through a box and remembered an old RTA I could steal the drip tip from. Then the memories flooded in... it was a UD Bellus someone gave me (with a warning... "she is evil") I was not put off by this (I like a good challenge) so tried several times to build "the evil one"... no success (it has an extremely small build deck, dual coils sharing the same post holes with tiny screws and no clearance between the coils and chamber) When it did work (briefly) it actually had decent vapor and flavor. I finally gave up... long story but short answer... this tank was my "nemesis" for sure. I even tried the single coil option (came with an adapter to block off one side) still no luck (wanted to throw it in the trash or better yet take a hammer to it) Anyway... what atomizers have you had that you consider your nemesis (evil, vile, stubborn, useless... feel free to use other terms)?
P.S. I know it's futile, but I'm going to try one more time with that "....." (I can hear her laughing at me as I type this)  

Frustating With My Druga

I just given druga rda v1 authentic.i tried to build it used clapton,fused clapton,alien,and simple wire with 2.5 & 3 mm id.but i got no flavor.my drop clone can beat it easyly.its frustating me.somebody please help me.what is the best build for my druga?