So I have a bit of nic stored in a relatively affordable freezer (Freezer Model: EdgeStar CMF151L-1 1.1 Cu. Ft. Medical Freezer with Lock) that is rated for minimum temperatures of -20°C (-4°F) under room-temperature conditions.
There are more expensive freezers available rated for "LOW" -40°C, and some rated "Ultra Low" -80°C. I'm wondering if the benefits of storage at those deep freeze temps are worth the heavy investment of a medical\pharma designed freezer as opposed to an inexpensive one like I'm currently using.
What are your thoughts?
Also, I don't like just trusting an appliance to do it's job and hoping I discover if it fails on a whim. Some come with audible alarms if a certain temp is reached but I'm not even on the same floor as the appliance and wouldn't hear it so I'm looking at monitoring and alerting so when a configurable temp is reached lets say 20°F I'll get a notification either by text on my phone, email, or a phone app.
Below are contenders I've found on Amazon but not thrilled with any of them along with the non Amazon solution I'm going with.
Note: sensors can vary in design meaning some can connect directly to the internet via your home's wireless router and others require a separate device (Gateway) which they communicate with, and the gateway connects to the internet via your wireless router.
*La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe (~$30)
Sensor is inserted from outside the freezer through door seal which I do not like.
*SensorPush Wireless Thermometer and Gateway (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor + free monitoring + separate device (gateway) for internet communications but the sensor uses a tiny coin battery. Looks like changing the sensor battery will be a regular routine.
*Temp Stick Wireless Remote Temperature & Humidity Sensor (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor that uses 2x AA batteries but it is also the gateway which looks like it will burn through batteries as well requiring regular battery replacement.
*Winner*....
Monnit Wireless Temperature Sensor + Gateway + Basic Monitoring (~$325)
I'm going with the solution from "monnit.com" because they obviously provide commercial solutions with lots of technology development and appear to have quality products.
I'll use a wireless sensor + gateway + free monitoring. They have different levels of monitoring but the basic level is free for one user account with one network and since I have one freezer with one gateway I have one network. However if I had multiple freezers all talking with one gateway it would still be one network.
**ALTA Wireless Temperature Sensor - AA Battery Powered (~$105)
The sensor is wireless running on 2x AA batteries but it only needs to talk to the gateway so the batteries should last a very long time between changes.
**ALTA Ethernet Gateway 4 (~$220)
Gateway plugged in to your wireless router that communicates to the internet.
**iMonnit Basic (Software) (Free)
Mobile app that provides...
Wireless Sensor Monitoring
Remote Monitoring Solutions
Online Remote Monitoring
What are your thoughts?
Thanks all, hope this thread is helpfull.
Hi All, I brought this topic up a long time ago and basically procrastinated about doing it until recently. With folks preparing for the future I thought it might be helpful to offer a recommendation for adding a temperature sensor to a freezer when storing NIC. With proposed taxes and impending mail restrictions, stored NIC is/will be a very important item since it will not be easily replaced. If it goes bad, then that's it.
I wanted a way to be alerted of failure and this is it.
Installation was easy. Just drilled a hole through the back of the freezer, inserted the sensor lead and plugged any extra space in the hole with "non-hardening duct seal compound" found at my local Home Depot.
The sensors communicate remotely with a WIFI gateway and will email me should the temperature rise above a specified temperature.
There are many to choose from, some are cheap and some not. I purchased a professional grade by "Monnit" because they have a longer range for communications between sensors and the gateway as well as brand recognition.
Pretty easy to setup and the monitoring service is free provided all sensors are on the same home network. I did a good amount of research and learned to just stay away from systems that don't use sensor leads but instead the whole sensor goes in the freezer. Basically the batteries fail within weeks instead of years.
Hope this is helpful.
i'm using blu plus also i have two battery
but one of two's sensor express dull response.
another one's sensor is rather sensitive so there is no uncomfortable.
but other battery has dull sensor. so i have to imbibe rather strongly.
what's wrong with this?
how can i fix it? or how can i set default setting of sensor?
please give me any advice!!
thank you.
So I'm a 19 year old guy, started smoking when I was 14 and finally quit cigarettes 3 months ago. My parents like that I quit smoking but they think vaping some sort of gateway drug that will make me want to, and I quote, "smoke {OTHER STUFF}". What I don't understand is that both of my parents both smoke a pack a day. I even tried to convince them to switch to vaping but they said they don't want to smoke that "{OTHER STUFF} device". Even when I vape in my room, they come in and get pissed off because they're tired of smelling my "fruity {MODERATED}". How can I convince them to get a better understanding of vaping and potentially start them on it too?
You may remember I wrote the other day that I had lost the bottom switch on the telescopic Pisces that had arrived just a couple of hours before. I spent two days looking for it and going through the exercise routine of lying down on the floor and looking under furniture that has become so frequent now. I gave up and today I ordered another Pisces which was a clone anyway and didn't cost much at all. Worst case scenario I would have spare parts. So that was that and I stopped searching.
This evening hubby and I decided we wanted some spaghetti. I set the water on the fire and opened the freezer to get some Bolognese sauce I had frozen down. Lo and behold - there was my switch!! ~
Then it all came back to me. I had put it there deliberately because I had overtightened the lock and it got jammed. Like I do with all metals that get jammed I put it in the freezer and promptly forgot all about it!
So whenever you lose a part of your vaping equipment ALWAYS check the freezer before you do anything else.... unless of course you want to exercise.
So I have (2) 3100mAh Efest batteries rated @ 20A and (1) 2500mAh Efest batterie rated @ 35A. I'm experiencing a pretty annoying problem with all 3 of them and that is they aren't lasting nearly as long as I feel they should be. I can EASILY vape through a battery in less than one hour while heavy vaping. I'm aware that I am sub-ohming and that requires more power from the battery but these are just going way too fast and something isn't right. I have a BEC Pro mod that takes a single 18650 battery and I'm vaping an Aspire Atlantis tank @ 35 watts with the .5 ohm coil installed. I charge each battery fully with a Nitecore i2 before using them and it'll say 4.2V on my mod & on my Smart BEC app it will say 100% as I take my first few puffs but then starts draining at a ridiculous rate until they are dead. I am not aware what the mod efficiency is on my BEC Pro or if there might be something not working properly within my device. Can someone please help me find what's wrong with these? Maybe some of you have eperienced this problem with Efest batteries in the past? Thanks in advance!
Edit: These are genuine Efest batteries as I bought them straight from the manufacture on Ebay.
Hi
I'm usually vaping at just 14 watt (mouth to lung, nothing heavy).
Now I'm soon getting a new mod that takes 21700 batteries, so I'm searching for the best batteries without spending too much or too little.
(aiming for Samsung, LG or Sony, to be safe)
I see some batteries hold 5000 mah, like the Samsung 50E (cyan).
But it only has about 10 amp discharge rate.
So less than half than "regular" 4000 mah batteries for example.
Is 10 amp more than enough for vaping at just 14 watts, or should I find a more "high-drain" battery?
I want to be safe and avoid risks or heat.
Hello,
I own the SMOK Infinix for more than 3 months now. I change the cotton myself for the pod and started having issues with the device.
After 2 months it would fire a while after pulling. Fixed by cleaning the inside of the device and removing the paper cover on the sensor. Worked perfectly.
Now, few days ago, I noticed I had to pull harder for the device to activate.
And now, literally an hour ago it would stop pulling. Isolated the airflow for a tighter pull worked for couple of minutes, now it just stopped. After some blows from the charging port it would do the infinite firing bug and that's the only way I can get a hit. Please help.
P.s I did clean the inside of the device again as much as I could. It gets a really good connection, just won't fire.
This happened just last night. Before bed last night, I decided to check the forums and email. My wife already was asleep. I decided to load up my dripper and vape while browsing. I put in a freshly charged battery. I was running a .2 ohm build in an older Efest 1600 V1 (rewrapped sony VTC3). I took a few puffs as I tried to load the website.... the internet was down, so I locked the mod, and went to the router to check things out.... After working with the router for about 5 minutes, I realized, I wasn't getting a signal from the internet provider.... so, I sat down to do some maintenance.... Through the light of the computer monitor, I saw some vapor coming from the drip tip..... the mod was NOT locked, and it was continuously firing for 5+ minutes. I went to pick it up, and it was too hot to pickup, so I turned it on the side so it would stop firing..... I grabbed a towel, and took it into the bathroom put it in the sink and turned on the water.... It sizzled when the water hit the mod. After a few seconds, I unscrewed the bottom button and took the battery out.
The mod cooled down battery stayed in the water for a bit. It was so hot, it started to split the shrink wrapping (it continued to shrink it until it split). The mod was fine, battery was fine... no bulging, smell, etc. I still might not use the battery just in case. turned out, I had not locked the bottom ring.
So, continued advice... do not vape a pulse rating, always vape continuous rating and use safe batteries.
So, I know that the Sony VTC batteries were the like "Go-to" battery. But they are being faked a lot and are hard to come by some authentic ones.
So whats the next best option?
I have a few different batteries and I definitely can tell the difference in the quality of the hit, and the life of the battery.
I have a red IMR 2000 mAh 18650 and it hits the worst out of all of my batteries.
Then I have a blue samsung battery (Can't really read the writing) but I can see it says 25r on it. This one hits decent.
Then I have a green 2600 mAh battery. Its a beast. Hits like a champ and lasts long. I would like to find a similar battery to this one. Im guessing this is the Sony VTC 5.
I really want to find something that is just as good as the Green one.
Does anyone know where to find these or a similar battery that is 2600mAh 30 amp? If so, are there any deals going on online where I could get a good price? Id like to order some new batteries.
Thanks for the help all!
Edit. One more question. Anyone know the difference between the Amps on each of the batteries? Just from guessing id say the red is 20 amps, blue is 25, and the green is 30? Does that sound right?