I Got A New Tank From A Friend And It Has Pieces That I Don't Know The Purpose Of.

I have the Istick 50 with a Nautilus tank. 1.7 ohm coil. What would be the highest watt useage recommend for this set up? I read the user manual for the tank and didn't see a max safe watt. I don't want a melt down. I did however notice that once I get above 18 or 19 watts the flavor of the juice starts to diminish. is this something that could be rectified with a different type of coil in the tank that would allow for higher wattage and give a better taste. Or a different mix of juice?  

Hi guys need a bit of help here, I just installed that rba base while watching a few yt vids. With the coils that came with it, reading at 0.24ohm. I've pulsed it on 51W, checked for hot spots (as best as I could judging by wht I saw the guys did on yt), wicked it as best as I could. Primed the wicks. Screwed everything together, waited a couple of minutes. 70VG, 4.5mg juice. Started at 45W, few hits, went up to 65W, +5W at a time. Hard preheat.

Results: two of the smoke alarms in my flat went off but that's not the reason why I post lol

I might have overprimed the wicks. However, I'm halfway through the 3.5ml tank and the cracking and gurgling noises won't go away on the pull. Tried adjusting the airflow, changing the preheat to normal, turned the watts down to 55W. Gurgling and cracking remains. Vapor production is intense. Flavor ain't bad, however I think that the factory coil I used before gave a slightly better flavor. I get no spitbacks just the gurgling and cracking that I can't get rid off, so any advice welcome.

Another thing I noticed is the tank heating up a lot, mainly at 65W. Found that table and it shows that I can go from 43.7-73.5W with the 0.24ohm coil. So 65 ain't max.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6a/18/d9/6a18d946e8a2a912ca8d8778056af5de.jpg

Should I be concerned about that?  

I do know where I can get o-rings for my technical needs (oil resistant, heat resistant, etc.), but I have now idea where to get FDA approved o-rings suitable as spare rings for tanks.  

Hi vapers.

So I wanted to change out the o-rings on my Crown IV tank as it has a bit of a leak when it's almost empty....

However, I can't figure out how I'm gonna get this o-ring out.
Any tips ?


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Any ideas are much appreciated ! Thx !

EDIT: Got it out with a tiny dab tool !



 

All these cry babys on you tube whining about their authentic or clone atomizers O rings

Don't cha know that's what blistex was made for

geeze.. people think ...


Noob tip #2--- DO NOT get blistex carmex whatever your lip goo of choice is in the fill holes of your kayfun v4's chimney
that would not be beneficial



Your all very welcome lube them o rings !!  

I know, I know... this topic has been discussed to death. And, I am in the process of searching now.
I have a TFV8 tank that started leaking a week or two ago. I tried all the usual tricks (empty and clean all parts, don't over tighten, replace o rings, etc). Nothing helped. After a few days of covering the mod with a paper towel everytime I took a drag, I decided to buy a new tank. The new TFV8 arrived yesterday afternoon, and after checking it out and filling it with juice, it is doing the exact same thing.
We are not talking about a drop leaking here and there, it is leaking the whole tankful in less than two hours.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk  

I busted my tank and my local store didn’t have another so I just decided to buy a whole new head/tank to go on my SMOK morph 219 mod. I asked the store clerk several times before I made the purchase if the tank I’m buying is compatible with my mod. He insisted it would work. Well now when I get it home and try to use my new tank on my mod (SMOK morph 219) it keeps asking if it’s a new coil with a different size every time. Any advice? And no I didn’t forget.... the new tank is a vaporesso cascade tank 7ml. 60.5X25MM 81g.  

OK so I have a Vaporesso Veco Solo Kit and my tank is stuck. I've tried rubber gloves, rubber and pliers, lock pliers and anything else you can think of. The tank won't budge. I need to change my coil but how can I get this damn tank off.

Not the best picture but you can see the tank.

UPDATE: After continuous trying with multiple methods, my glass has decided to give up and is now in 4 pieces so I need either a new glass or new vape entirely.  

So I recently gifted a friend of mine who is still getting his feet wet in the vaping world a Kangertech Aerotank Mega, and for some reason, he thinks you can fill it from the top, which I told him you definitely can not. I'll post the exact conversation here.

Him: you can do that with the Aerotank Mega too
Me: You can? I don't know about that.
Him: yeah but you have to be careful how full you fill it, of course.
Me: No. It's a bottom fill. The only way you could fill it from the top is if you only do it like halfway, due to the chimney being the way it is.
Him: then the mouthpiece part shouldn't be able to come apart from the tank, but it does, it's not even glued together.
Me: Yeah. That's called a drip tip. They're interchangeable. Your T3D is like that, too.
Him:
yeah, but with the T3D it's a seperate part that comes off, and doesn't leave the top of the tank exposed.
on the aerotank mega it's all one piece. either way, you can still only fill it so full from the top or bottom because of the center hole. it still holds a good amount though.

So, yeah. I'm pretty sure the only way you could possibly fill it from the top is if you took the top half of the chimney off and filled it that way, since the chimney is kind of in two pieces, but then you could only fill it to the spot where the chimney splits. Anyone who can definitively settle this for me?  

Now that most of the stocking up is behind us, what would be a suitable procedure for maintaining items in storage?

For regulated mods, keeping them dry is probably all that is needed. But should the sealed wrap be removed to avoid condensation inside?

How about atomizers? I had a problem in removing the cap from a used RDA after it was in storage for two years. Had to resort to using WD40 because the o-rings became adhered to the metal surfaces. I ruined the o-rings in the process. Would it make sense to go through and disassemble/reassemble things at certain time intervals? Should items be stored disassembled? Will o-rings become permanently compressed over time? Maybe put some vg on the o-rings for storage? Or should o-rings be removed? It's already been said that things should be cleaned/soaked before going into storage.

I have one RDA that gets sticky while in use. I remove the cap about once a week, just so I can.

What do you do? What do you think?