Coil Of Different Sizes - Can They Make Or Break The Experience?

Hey guys just recently got a Lemo2, wasn't happy with the coil that it came built with for some reason so built my first one to put in. I think it came out pretty good, I believe it came with 24g Kanthal and I did 11 wraps around 3.5mm came out to 0.9ohm. It takes a while to ramp up but seems to give a nicer vape to me than the stock one which was like 5 wraps around 2mm at 0.5 ohm.

Anyways, I tossed the original coil and now am wondering if I really had to or could have saved it. When you guys try new coil builds do you save your older builds? And being that it's really just resistance wire does a coil ever really need to be replaced or is it just for novelty/trying new builds?  

I am trying to get the best flavor with the best single coil build.

Objectives:
Flavor Smooth Vapor
Materials:
Kanthal Wire 35mg Nic Salts
I have noticed that either depending on the diameter of the coil or the spacing of the coil wraps You get a different kind of vape hit. It seems like higher gauge wire produces a smoother hit. And then couple that with a small diameter coil build, plus squishing the coil together to remove all coil spacing results in the smoothest possible vapor.

Can anyone confirm my findings? Or does anyone have any tips because I have still to replicate the smooth hit from clearomizer sub tank cartridge's that are non mesh. I am starting to think this is because the cotton is wrapped around the outside of the coil instead of being shoelace through the middle of the coil.  

I change my coil infrequently,I notice sometimes when I rewick or change flavour on my rta,my coil looked black and gunk.After I rebuilt it and used it,the favour is ok and no dry hit, just a little less flavour.Recently,there is people contracting Vape related illnesses and a few died.I just don’t have too much time recoil and built,as usually rebuilding my rta which is relatively new released would take around 20min and I don’t have the time.Is dry hitting dangerous for the health because of Formaldehyde of dry hit or is the risk low?
What’s actually risky vaping nicotine,PG/VG only?  

I've been vaping out of my new coil today and I noticed my coil is turning brown in 1 day! The flavor is tasting metallic and I make sure everything is full and don't chain vape is it possible to get a faulty coil? (pre-built coil) I also did prime it and even left it for 10 mins to fully soak.
Any help much appreciated hope everyone has a good weekend  

Hi,

I just tried to TC vaping - and it’s awesome!

it was harder to build the coil, took me couple of tries, but once I reached R of 1.3, everything started to work.
I used 26awg wire SS316L (that’s what they had ready in the store).
I have no dry hits - at all, it’s just perfect. It’s like having on the fly automatically adjusted curve!

I do have one small problem- 1 out of 10 mod firing - (almost) nothing happens.
is it a problem (not good chip/mod, wire, else?), or is it intended? (Coil overheated, wick is dry, else?). But that’s a small nuisance - I wait 10 seconds and wape again no problem.

what I still don’t understand - why I was always told at the stores “don’t TC vape - it’s the old way, now VW is the way to go” without any explanation.
So far I have a feeling that it was done exclusively in stores interest:
- because they know it’s harder to built, so they didn’t want to have a complaining customer “it does not work”, because the mods for tc probably cost more so it’s tougher sell, and they wanted to sell me more coils, wick, juice...

are there other reasons against TC? (Safety, medical reasons (idk - SS wire releases particles or something - seems unlikely (I know with Ti and Ni you should be causious)), else?

I continue to research this topic as well, online, YouTube, etc, but so far I found nothing against, except what I already mentioned (mainly it’s a bit harder to build the coils).

Would appreciate your opinions!

regards,
Vadim

ps. I use EHPRO Cold Steel 100 mod, Siren 2 MTL RTA.  

Hey all,

So, I've been really happy with my new setup (iStick 50w and 30w, Nautilus and Mini Nautilus). Everything has been working smoothly, but I have a problem with the replacement coils I purchased (and cannot return).

Went to go change out the coil in one of my tanks this evening. Filled the tank up as usual, made sure the air shaft and drip tip were clean, screwed on my new coil, filled the tank, and let it sit and wick up for half an hour. Took some pulls without firing, dropped it to 8w (to "step up" and prime the new coil), and immediately got a nasty burnt hit that I can still taste an hour later. Unscrewed the tank to see what was wrong, and noticed the wicking material was bone dry.

For the longest time, I could not figure out what happened, why it wasn't wicking...until I looked closer. The e-liquid holes on the replacement coil I have are TINY! The coils that came with the tanks have holes that are at least twice, maybe three times the diameter. The holes are so small that my e-liquid will not even enter them to soak the wicking material. I checked the serial number scratch off on Aspire's site and both boxes of replacement coils I have came up as authentic.

I'm displeased. $22 down the drain, now I have to rush and find a dealer who has the "correct" coils. I cannot use these coils whatsoever, and the dealer I purchased from does not accepted returns on atomizers.



On the left is the coil that came with the tank (both of my tanks came with this exact same coil, and two replacements that look exactly like it, but I've used them up and am on the new ones). On the right, the coil I purchased in a replacement pack of 5. You can see they look nearly identical, except for the size of the wicking holes. Also, the piece at the bottom seems a bit more flimsy, as you can see in the picture, it's not exactly straight with the rest of the atomizer.

So, can anyone point me to a dealer that has the coils I need? I'm afraid of ordering from somewhere and getting the ones on the right, which are useless and do not soak up any e-liquid whatsoever.  

Hey guys I’ve been enjoying vaping for a few months now and I’m loving it.
I’ve learnt how to fix some leaks and backspits so I am happy with that .
But I have washed one of my coil cleaning it under tap water and left it to air out for a week cuz I used another coil at this time.


I’m not getting much juice and the cotton in the coil is quite hard. So I’m sucking mostly Heat vape
But it’s not terrible or anything?

What should I do ?

Kind regards  

Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.

Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.

I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.

I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.

No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.

This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).

So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?

WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????  

Considering getting the Sensis but wondering if the coil +, refresh and f0 modes really do improve coil life. I would probably use the adapter with the zenith tank as well as the pod so especially interested to hear anyone’s experience using it this way and whether you’ve seen the life of your coils noticeably increase. Thanks  

I've yet to buy a VW mod but i will be soon. However the outcome of this thread will dictate which one i go for.
Ive been looking at a few:

MVP 3 Pro (60w mod)
Itaste 50w mod
Coolfire 4 40w mod
Kanger Subbox Mini

For arguments sake lets say you have a 0.5ohm stock coil in an Isub G tank on the Istick 50w. You also have a 2ohm stock coil for it.
The mod is capable of supplying 50w to both the 0.5 ohm coil and the 2ohm coil. 50w is 50w right? So what, if any, is the benefit of putting a sub ohm coil in the VW mod?
The manufacturers market them as sub ohm mods, but why go sub ohm if the device is capable of the same wattage on a 1+ohm coil, the experience would be the same?

Which leads me to a similar question. Would any VW mod from say 30w capable to 60w capable basically give the exact same experience for the majority of users assuming the same tank is fitted?

I'm quite new to this but i hope my question is understandable
Thanks