I'm not new to RDA's, but it's been a while and new to all these different coils. I dont know to read the specs.
Juggernaut (32g/26g): from what i understand it's two claptons wrapped with a ribbon wire. How do I read this?
How do I read the specs for other such as: Alian, interlock Alian, staggered fused Clapton, parallel clapton.?
Put a new build on an authentic derringer. Was working fine before...put it on ohm reader before pinching coils...now can't get any reading. Just says .00. Other attys read on the meter. Even simple 28g single wrap won't read either. Any help would be great.
Hello all I’m new here, but I occasionally do read post for help . Anyway I tired to pull the center pin on my morph 2 230w and I accidentally ripped the top pin off . Can this be fixed ? Atomizer can still read it,but I don’t trust that . Any help is good, thanks all
Honestly, this USA Today is one of the first articles I've read where someone is actually talking to some of the people who have experienced first hand serious health issues from the underground and worthy of a read:
Vaping illnesses: Crisis mixes teens, black market THC, no regulation
Did you guys know that you are supposed to be shaking your bottle of e-liquid? I just read that on my bottle of Loaded Strawberry Jelly Donut.
I have never been doing things and well. I am going to start doing it to see if the flavor gets any better.
I read somewhere that for a pod system at 15W with a 25mg juice,the intake here is high of course.Lets say I am using sub ohm,60W@6mg,which I read that is equivalent to 6X4 compare to the pod system,so my intake of nicotine per ML is 24mg,is that true even though many people doesn’t care...
I posted this in another user's smok m80 thread. I hope it's ok to post here too. I'm really concerned, and would like to know if this has happened to anyone else. Here is the post unaltered:
I loved the device at first, but now I am scared to use it. I had an Atlantis 2 on it, and at first, it consistently read the ohms as .39. Then it started jumping all over the place from puff to puff. It went anywhere from .39 to 1.2, always different with each puff. At one point, it even changed the watts on its own (it kept dropping them down from around 30 to around 25; it did stop doing this). So I put my kanger Subtank nano on it, at 24 watts. It read anywhere from .55 to 1.5. Then, on the last puff before I shut the device off, it read 2.62 and burned my throat really bad at 24 watts. Since it reads different with each puff, and I don't get the new reading until after I've hit the button, I cannot check what it will be before I've inhaled. I've been vaping for years, and never felt anything like this. My chest hurts, and my throat feels very sore. Contacting the vendor now, but I don't know that I would even want to use one ever again. This was scary for me. The device had the updated chip, and was not even used for more than a half a charge. (The two tanks are fine on my other mods.)
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I often read people talk about B&M on ECF:
I figured it was a chain vaping shop in America, but having read up on Wikipedia B&M it seems can mean bricks and mortar.
So is B&M an actual shop? Or is B&M just any vaping shop that’s not on the internet but in an actual high street shop made of bricks and mortar?
I have an appointment with my doctor tomorrow, and he had asked that I try to quit vaping and switch to nicotine gum because ecigs create formaldehyde in the lungs, which is terrible for you. I know many of you have dealt with this BS, so here's a short, easy-to-read article by a doctor explaining exactly why these studies are ridiculous and misleading. There is much more in-depth stuff out there, but for something by a medical professional that is still very scientific but still easy enough to approach that people will actually read it, I think it's pretty darn good.
The deception of measuring formaldehyde in e-cigarette aerosol: the difference between laboratory measurements and true exposure
Hi folks,
I recently purchases a Sigelei 100w box, and got the purple Efest batteries that the vendor recommended.
I'm using this with a KangerTech Subtank Mini.
It's currently set to 42W - 5.0V, and the resistance it shows me is 0.6 ohms.
I have some questions about my setup.
- I read some reports that these batteries have different specs than what is reported, and it could potentially be dangerous. What should I do to be safe? Is there a max W/V that I can set it to?
- I have a TrustFire TR-001 charger (output: 4.2V / 500Ma). Can I charge those batteries with that? I read the charger supports 18650 batteries, but I'd rather be sure...
- If the charger is no good, any recommendations of what I should be using?
Thanks a lot!