Do Ss Coils Require More Power Than Kanthal Coils?

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

I am trying to get the best flavor with the best single coil build.

Objectives:
Flavor Smooth Vapor
Materials:
Kanthal Wire 35mg Nic Salts
I have noticed that either depending on the diameter of the coil or the spacing of the coil wraps You get a different kind of vape hit. It seems like higher gauge wire produces a smoother hit. And then couple that with a small diameter coil build, plus squishing the coil together to remove all coil spacing results in the smoothest possible vapor.

Can anyone confirm my findings? Or does anyone have any tips because I have still to replicate the smooth hit from clearomizer sub tank cartridge's that are non mesh. I am starting to think this is because the cotton is wrapped around the outside of the coil instead of being shoelace through the middle of the coil.  

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

I found this semi-old spool of kanthal in my drawer that was unopened, I threw out the packaging so I don't remember what it the company was but it was something along the lines of "Tuff #24 galvanized kanthal resistance wire" but I built a couple of coils and they all short, I've tried it on 3 diff attys and still shorts, I made sure its not touching any other metal or anything. It was a dirty but i washed it with soap and water and its not grimy or greasy from machine oil but parts of it aren't shiny like wire is supposed to be they're gray-blackish. Is that causing the problem.  

So I built a twisted build out of nichrome 60 wire and tried it on a triple series 18650 mechanical box and it melted the coils why won't nichrome work with any series boxes 8.4 volt melted 12.6 volt melted but I can build a .06 nichrome build and run it on my mech tube mod and it handles it I can build .15 and run it at 150 watts on my Sigelei and it handles it but bump up the voltage and it melts don't get it. I ran a .30 nichrome build at 260 watts on a SMY 260 and had no failure of the coil so I'm puzzled why a series mech box desemates the coils?  

I've been vaping in subohm territory on bigger (non cigalikes) mods for the past year or so, on 0.3-0.7 coils regularly with VV/VW mods only with a range of 30-40watts. I started looking for mech mods recently and picked some up, then picked me up some VTC4's. After trying to figure out builds and such, I discovered Nichrome 80 (I exclusively used Kanthal A1). Come to find out Nichrome 80 is more malleable, and doesnt last as long as Kanthal, I was deterred but looked more into it. The rampup time on Nichrome seems to be much quicker, and the Nichrome 80 gives less resistance per ft compared to Kanthal A1 (same gauge). Recently I've been vaping 0.17-0.3ohm coils and Its the closest thing to a quick drag form a lit cigarette ive ever vaped.

0.17ohms on a mech w/ sony vtc4


I believe I will be purchasing a sigelei 100w soon, so I wont have to 'build for the mod'. 100W vaping is pretty nice not having to take 3+sec long drags, with 0 rampup time. So yeah, I get why the sigelei mods are popular now. I didnt really bash on em I just never understood them, but now I do . Short, Quick, Drags. Very satisfying.  

so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.

I also have the aromamizer titan.

What gauge would you Clapton?

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk  

Hey everyone,
I've been vaping for about two years now, and have decided to start dripping. For the last few weeks, I have been dripping on an IGO-W, 26G Kanthal single coil (7 wrap micro coil reading at 0.8ohms) on my iStick 30w.

I just recently purchased a new battery that should arrive today, and was wondering if anyone had advice/tips on producing some fat clouds! Dual Coils? Different coil builds? Number of wraps? Watts to vape at? I think you get the picture lol.

The items I will be using are as follows:
-SMOK XPRO M80 Plus
-IGO-W
-26 Gauge Kanthal Wire
-Japanese Organic Cotton
- 80vg/20pg Juices

All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Tyler  

8/9 wraps of AWG 29 Kanthal on 2mm bit should give you around 1.8 ohms, right? At least that is what it has always given me. This evening I was rebuilding a Nautilus BVC like I have done so many times before. Lo and behold I put the coil on the ohm meter and it's reading 0.18. I look for sticking out bits of wire. None. I throw out the coil and start over with exactly the same build as always. Again I get 0.16 ohms. I test it on all my regulated mods... same result on all of them.

How is this even possible?!  

Okay so my target is to get .12 ohms consistently, doesn't fall apart, 3mm diameter, 4 loops. Fralien has one I find is best for my needs. However, the cool down time is too long and its still cooking that wicking, because the size of the coil outside diameter.

I've tried a few coils, like this wire mesh stuff, 4 loops, 3mm etc, .14 ohms. This to me is very uneasy and just inky dinky.

Main goal is for quick .13 ohm 85 to 90 watts, 3.8 volts fire up and possibility of much less cool down time in case I want to chain vape. No I do not get hot spots or dry hits, but I do taste how the cotton life is, pure and hybrid with canna.