Vapesnail On Bb Check Atomizer

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

Don't get me wrong, I love to vape. But I do miss the convenience of analogs. Every corner store carries your brand, it's easy to bum a smoke from a friend or even get a light from a stranger. Vaping isn't that easy.. Today I replaced the coil in my atlantis before leaving home for the day. I suppose I should've tested it before I left the house but I haven't had a stock coil fail yet. So about a hour away from home I pulled my sx mini out of my lunch box and was looking forward to a vape. But it gave me an error, check atomizer. So I unscrewed the tank and double checked the coil was snug to the base and no moisture was under the coil. I also checked the floating pin on my sx mini and everything seems good n clean. Still I get the message, check atomizer.. Sooo frustrating because I'm a hour away from home with no backup vape and no extra coil.. I broke down and had a terrible death stick. Couldn't even finish it due to taste and smell. It's just not my vape. Anyways no one else at my work vapes so I had to vent to some other fellow vapors.. I can't wait to get home and get another coil!!  

My hypertank won't screw on mvp 2. One minute it worked then after I cleaned it, change the atomizer, and filled the the tank up with juice, it started to have problems. I tried my nautilus and that works on the mvp 2. Is there something I could do to the hypertank to fix it? Right before this happened I just ordered a pack of atomizers. Thanks for any help.  

Anyone got a good solution for atomizer seats to store them on. Im gonna take a look at my local home depot see if i can come up with something.

This what they look like if you were to get from vape store.(yes there cheap but so am i )
Atomizer Seats - 101 Vape

Im open to your ideas i really dont care what it looks like long as it stands an atomizer up. I got mine proped up against stuff so anything better than that system of storage.  

Problem

You've screwed your new atomizer into your mod. It's all the way in and works, but the atomizer wobbles.

Why? - Because the positive 510 connector is too long, meaning that only the front part of the negative threading is engaged.

Solution

A shim.

shim
/ʃɪm/
noun
a washer or thin strip of material used to align parts, make them fit, or reduce wear.

Cut a disk the same size as the base of the atomizer, put a hole in it's center slightly larger than the 510 on your atomizer. Slip this over the atomizer 510 and screw it into the mod, wobble gone.
The thickness of the shim will need to match your application. If it's too thick the 510 may not reach the positive pin and no juice will flow.
I initially used a credit card which was too thick (1mm), the positive pin didn't connect. I then used a playing card (0.5mm) and this was spot on.

Why? - The base of the atomizer is now supported, so the free play on the pin does not matter.


Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

 

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

I saw somewhere on this forum that you can use a beauty ring as a catch cup for RDA, so I bought those: Deck Beauty Ring for Entheon RDA Atomizer (5-Pack): FastTech Forums

Problem is that my atomizer doesn't screw completely and my vaporizer doesn't detect the atomizer so it doesn't work.

I don't really need it as it doesn't happen often that I over drip but it happens sometimes. Is there something I can do about this problem?  

getting atomizer open message from my heatvape invader mini. the atomizer fired on my eGo ONE... just got it yesterday, do i have a bum invader mini?  

okay so don't laugh but this is really an amazing vaping experience/setup for me! I have two batteries and a dual 18650 charger, so I never have to charge onboard nor do I find myself with no power since I always have at least one charging. I love the simplicity of the cloupor mini 30w. Between the magnetic battery door, simplistic screen/button setup, and the overall minuscule appearance of it, I think she's beautiful! The arctic tank however, I've had a could problems, but not too bad (Yes, I did allow my atomizer head to soak for a full 24 hours in juice.) Before I get into that tanks problems though, I'd like to also include that I've been getting into dripping aswell. I bought a plume veil clone a while ago for around 30$, and i was dumb enough to think that there was no need for a VV mod over $15... therefore I bought an X6 battery (cringe, I know..) and long story short I had a terrible experience. the wire that came with the rda was iffy, and it also came with silica wick; which I hate. I ended up building some kinda ****ed up maelstrom of a build. I used the cotton ends of ear cleaners, the questionable wire that came with the atty, and I ran it all at a mind melting 4.4v. Best part of it is that I had no way to check how many ohms I was pushin out. Anyways, I digress. First problem with the Arctic sub ohm tank was the "Check atomizer" deal on my cloupor. The problem was that the connector pin for the mini 30w isn't spring loaded, so I had to whip out the mini screw driver and adjust it. Once that was fixed, the atty was working perfectly!! Except, I was getting a little burnt taste. That's when I've learned that with this tank you have to start at a low wattage and work up to 30 when you're starting vaping for that session. The airflow is good, but I hate airflow; so it's even more splendid that the lowest airflow setting is barely any air at all. Really. It feels like sucking through a brick, and I like it. A ton of flavor, I vape eucalyptus mint flavored juice right now, and I'm loving it. I can't even express to you guys how much I'm loving this thing! Thanks for the advice in telling me to get it!  

Hi all.

When I screw the atlantis together, the wicking holes aren't exposed between the little cut out grooves on the chimney. I have to unscrew the base a little bit for them to actually be visible.

Do the wicking holes need to be visible within the grooves, or should I just screw the thing together completely and not worry about them being exposed?

Thanks