I put a battery in upside down, and it literally melted the battery inside of my Priv. I got the battery out, but a small part of the inner plating melted down, blocking entry to batteries. Any way to remove the melted inner plating or anything? Pic provided
I am not sure where this should go but this was the best place I could see. Anyway I need a bit of help here it should not be too hard. I am look to build a dual 26650 variable voltage cordless power supply for electroplating small parts . I need to be able to vary the voltage from about a .5 volts to 3.5 volts if it possible average voltage about 2 volts I would like it to compensate as the battery runs down a bit don't have to perfect but just help it keep the voltage steady so it will need to have a volt meter I see those all over in the diy mech mods
So I want to use a dual 26650 battery sled
A 1 amp usb charger port
I need a project box big enough
digital volt meter
I would think a mosfet to vary the voltage with a potentiometer
resetting fuse
and I would guess A piece of that project board stuff with all the hole in it like a for building stiff like this on I can't for the life of me remember what they call that board I built small projects on this stuff when I was kid so that was some time ago LOL it just a board with lots a little hole in it it's a sort of a PCB
I have a basic idea for this thing but last time a built any kind a power supply it was in high school and I am 53 now so I am rusty as Hedouble toothpicks LOL. So I really use a bit of help from someone that is good with this stuff I am sure I can build it that not the problem is getting the right values and wiring diagram and finding sources for the parts I sure one I have a wiring diagram and the values I can google most of that stuff but tips pm someplace maybe you got stuff from that has good prices and don't take a 100 year to ship LOL
In the end this will be the power supply for a silver plating with I have hope to maybe add some little videos picture and stuff of it. this will be kinda fun and I want guys to see how easy and cheap it is to electroplate silver for your box mod so when I done with the power supply I will do a tutorial help fold out in return for help with this
I will be doing stuff like nickel silver platinum. even gold plating
Any help with this would be great if it works out maybe I can plate some small parts for you as a thanks
So I built a twisted build out of nichrome 60 wire and tried it on a triple series 18650 mechanical box and it melted the coils why won't nichrome work with any series boxes 8.4 volt melted 12.6 volt melted but I can build a .06 nichrome build and run it on my mech tube mod and it handles it I can build .15 and run it at 150 watts on my Sigelei and it handles it but bump up the voltage and it melts don't get it. I ran a .30 nichrome build at 260 watts on a SMY 260 and had no failure of the coil so I'm puzzled why a series mech box desemates the coils?
Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?
This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.
Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.
- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.
- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.
- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.
- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.
- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).
- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.
- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.
- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.
- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.
- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).
If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.
I hope my naivete amuses you. Lol.
I recently graduated from a 600-ish mAH ego battery to a variable voltage pink Vision spinner ego thats somewhere in the neighborhood of 1100 mAH. I am finding out that I prefer a "sweet spot" of around 4.5 v, but that it varies depending on the eliquid's nicotine content, flavor, vg/pg ratio, & even brand. I found out that certain fruity flavors can melt a plastic clearomizer. I had the Kanger T2 2.2ml plastic clearomizer and a 6mg nic 80vg/20pg cherry ejuice from Mt Baker Vapor. The cherry juice melted TWO T2 clearomizers. The drip tip melted right off the top washer/band of the clearomizer, and I'd gotten a mouthful of juice. Gross. Quickly rinsed my mouth out. Now I'm using the Kanger glass pyrex 2.4ml? Protank, and it's a better vaping experience. Heavier than the T2s tho.
I've also discovered that I REALLY like the 80vg/20pg ratio better (even though, honestly, the cherry tastes like Robutussin). The texture is noticeably thicker. It hits my throat well, but I like the moderate lung hit it gives me. I am also liking the bigger clouds that more vg and a higher voltage give me.
The downside of the ego manual batteries, for me, is that it doesn't give me enough of a hit before the led indicator light flashes several times in quick succession and it quits until I release the driptip from my mouth and exhale.
I'm glad I found my husband's spare ego usb charger (he's deployed), because I'm going through 2 of the smaller ego batteries AND draining the Vision vv.
Just for the record, I quit smoking. I'm down from the 36mg nic. ejuice to the 111-12mg, & now I'm trying 6.
One thing more I learned: change out a wick more often than once yearly.
Have a good ya'll.
--mamma from Tacoma
I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...
I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.
I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.
What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...
Now that I have gotten into unregulated mods I've been doing a lot of reading about batteries... well actually I had started reading before but now that I am actually using them I want to know more.
One thing I am a little puzzled about is that you should recharge a battery when it's about 2/3 discharged and you should never charge a battery that is completely discharged. My questions:
1. How do I know the level of discharge in my battery? - I don't own a multi meter
2. What do you do with a fully discharged battery? - just chuck it?
I got a problem with my Luxotic Surface. I'm using a LG Choco Battery 18650, it was fully charged and when I press the fire button suddenly it appears for Battery Low even the battery was on fully charged. I tried my spare battery maybe its just a mistake putting a fully charge battery, but it was the same issue also with the spare battery. I tried the 2 batteries with my Geek Vape Aegis 100W to check whether my batteries are already broke but it works fine. I was vaping for my Luxotic Surface by 55.0 Wattage, 0.21 ohms, 3.40 Voltage. Can someone help me out to fix this problem?
I just got it today, and the batteries wouldn’t fit but I finally pushed them in. I don’t know too much about voltage but it says R on the left side, and u on the right side on the main screen. It’s at 0.27 voltage where it says R, and nothing for U. Is there something wrong with the voltage or the battery?
So, I know that the Sony VTC batteries were the like "Go-to" battery. But they are being faked a lot and are hard to come by some authentic ones.
So whats the next best option?
I have a few different batteries and I definitely can tell the difference in the quality of the hit, and the life of the battery.
I have a red IMR 2000 mAh 18650 and it hits the worst out of all of my batteries.
Then I have a blue samsung battery (Can't really read the writing) but I can see it says 25r on it. This one hits decent.
Then I have a green 2600 mAh battery. Its a beast. Hits like a champ and lasts long. I would like to find a similar battery to this one. Im guessing this is the Sony VTC 5.
I really want to find something that is just as good as the Green one.
Does anyone know where to find these or a similar battery that is 2600mAh 30 amp? If so, are there any deals going on online where I could get a good price? Id like to order some new batteries.
Thanks for the help all!
Edit. One more question. Anyone know the difference between the Amps on each of the batteries? Just from guessing id say the red is 20 amps, blue is 25, and the green is 30? Does that sound right?
My wife and I have been using the Smok Priv