So what does the # of wraps indicator bar in steam engine signify. It seems that the more wraps that are calculated, the longer the indicator becomes and will, at some point, turn from green to yellow (but I've never seen it turn red).
What is it signifying? Is it just trying to tell you, "Hey dude, that coil is way too long for any atomizer!", or is it saying something else. The site doesn't mention it.
When calculating builds on Steam Engine for parallel builds, is the wrap count the total of wraps counting each strand, or total wraps for the unit of strands?
Example: I want build X using 2 parallel strands of 28g Kanthal, and for my given resistance, SE says use 14 wraps. Is that 7 wraps with parallel wires, or 14 wraps counting the parallel wires as a single wire?
Thanks in advance, guys. I'm trying to experiment with some creative builds and I want to waste as little wire as I can on missed resistance.
Temperature Control Testing results for the DNA 75C board (Lostvape Paranormal) using the Steam Engine SS316L profile are available he
Temperature Control Testing Results: DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile : Vaping
OR imgur.com/a/EOL9hRE
TLDR: You might expect that the DNA75C results would be better than the DNA75 (original) results, and while the results are largely comparable in most states, there is some overheating and more volatility compared to the classic DNA 75 under the same conditions, shown here imgur.com/a/7Pe3Gad. However, under the "new" test using a dual coil high mass low to mid resistance build, the result was one of the best I have ever seen for any state on any mod in terms of accuracy and flatness (but I have no prior results for this test to comapare to). Using the stock SS316L profile or DJAquith 3.5 did not produce better results. You can see the results using the DjAquith 3.5 results, he imgur.com/a/Abf57Fi. The Steam Engine 316L profile was still the most accurate according to this rig/analysis and as best as I could tell from my thermocouple.
I have an iPV Mini that the finish is starting to look a little bad in certain areas on the mod.
I am going to cover it with a vinyl wrap, but can't decide what to buy.
Pricewise, the J-Wrap and Vapor Skinz are at least double the price or more than the wraps you can buy off of Ebay from companies such as "MightySkinsDecals1"
Are these Ebay wraps in the $7.00 - $8.00 price range of much poorer quality than the expensive J-Wraps, Vapor Skinz, etc?
Thanks,
Apologies for the reddit links, but imgur links turn into blank black boxes for some reason.
We have been undertaking a consistent set of tests to produce graphs of temperature and power behaviour of various mods in temperature control mode to work out which mods do what they say on the box. See list that follows. DiCoDes and Vsticking will be released in the next week or two.
YiHi Sx Mini G Class: Temperature Control Testing Results: YiHi Sx Mini G Class (YiHi SX550j board) : electronic_cigarette
Vaporesso Gen: Temperature Control Testing Results: Vaporesso Gen SS Profile : electronic_cigarette
DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile: Temperature Control Testing Results: DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile : Vaping
DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using DJaquith 3.5 SS316L Profile: Temperature Control Testing Results: DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using DJaquith 3.5 SS316L Profile (same mod, different SS316L profile) : electronic_cigarette
Geekvape Aegis Solo Stock SS316L: Temperature Testing Results: Geekvape Aegis Solo Stock SS316L Profile : electronic_cigarette
Innokin Proton Stock and Custom SS316L: Temperature Control Testing Results: Innokin Proton : electronic_cigarette
LV Therion DNA 167 Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile: Temperature Control Testing Results: LV Therion DNA 167 Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile : electronic_cigarette
Geekvape G-Box Stock and Custom SS316L: Temperature Control Testing Results: GeekVape GBox Stock SS Profile : electronic_cigarette
Volcano Ecigs Lavabox M DNA 75 Steam Engine 316L Profile - https://www.reddit.com/r/aussievapers/comments/gjazh3/temperature_control_testing_results_dna_75/
LV Drone DNA 250C Stock SS profile (note this is in preview form): https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/fxs1x0/preview_on_dna_250c_and_input_sought_temperature/
Best online place in the U.S. to buy 18650 wraps? I don't want to order from China ect, I want to get quickly.
I stumbled upon a vaping calculator on Android market called Steam Engine. Where you can calculate the best results with what you have. From ohms and watts, to coil gauges, and E-Liquids. Anyone else tried it!?
Hey guys just recently got a Lemo2, wasn't happy with the coil that it came built with for some reason so built my first one to put in. I think it came out pretty good, I believe it came with 24g Kanthal and I did 11 wraps around 3.5mm came out to 0.9ohm. It takes a while to ramp up but seems to give a nicer vape to me than the stock one which was like 5 wraps around 2mm at 0.5 ohm.
Anyways, I tossed the original coil and now am wondering if I really had to or could have saved it. When you guys try new coil builds do you save your older builds? And being that it's really just resistance wire does a coil ever really need to be replaced or is it just for novelty/trying new builds?
One of you guys suggested the Voopoo drag x when I discussed my 20th vape device no longer charging through the USB mini. It was a Geekvape which they claim are indestructible. Of course they don't mention how the USB port is a cheap piece of garbage that will eventually fail even when treated delicately. I received the Voopoo drag x in the mail a couple days ago. I didn't realize it doesn't come with a battery so I picked up an IR18650-25R 20A 3.7V battery at a local vape shop. It was working beautifully for about a half hour and then it would just turn off. Even if I pushed the buttons or clicked five times, it wouldn't power up unless I took out the battery, put it back in and then clicked five times. Then I would get a few puffs and it would turn off again. Then today, I started receiving a message that said "atomizer short". I kept getting this message over and over even if I took out the coil and put it back in. Occasionally, it would start working again, but between the device powering off and the atomizer short problem, it's more or less unusable. It was only about $60 in total so no biggie. So now I'm shopping around for my 22nd vape device. Does anyone have any suggestions?
I'm about to venture into doing my own builds and I had a silly question. I have watched dozens of videos on how to do builds and have even done a couple builds on some of my friends attys. I have one friend who on all his dual builds he uses two coils with different wraps. For example one coil with 7 wraps and one with 5. Does anyone else build this way? I have never asked him why he does this and in all the videos I've watched I've never seen anyone else do it. Is there a specific reason? Just curious
For those of you with a IPV4, Jwraps now has wraps for the device. Enclosed is a pic. They are 18.50 but when you choose IPV4 depending on the wrap it will subtract $3 to $6