Molicel 18650s are ever so slightly bigger than samsungs. I found this the first time I popped a couple in my mod. The fit was a little bit tight. Now as this applies the the legend, the battery door being on the bottom and spring loaded, it's a bit of effort to close it. Not a deal breaker but i just need to make sure its closed securely. Now, lol, this morning I put in some freshly charged batteries, closed the cover and set it down only to have the door pop back open. The spring on this door was strong enough to flip my mod over when it popped open. Its probably only funny if you were here an saw this happen.
So, here's the deal. My new mod was delivered today. I knew it had a fixed stainless 510 connector, but I wasn't worried. Anyway, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but the tank keeps coming loose on the mod. I know I am probably not cranking it down tight enough, but I am afraid of going too tight and screwing up the threads.
So, I am looking for an adaptor that has a spring loaded pin on both sides. Spring loaded on the battery side and spring loaded on the atty side. Is there such a thing? I would also prefer that this is 22mm wide. Any ideas?
So I just bought a kit, it doesn't come with batteries -- which I wasn't told (was led to believe it was charged through the USB port according to vape store employee). So I ordered x4 Nitecore-NL1834 18650 3400mAh 3.7 Protected Lithium Ion (Li-ion) batteries and now the door won't close. I read an old article saying that Protected 18650 can be bigger. If there's a possibility of buying batteries that cost $18 a pop shouldn't they let you know there's a chance that it won't be the right size?
Is there a trick to getting the battery lid to close or do I need to now buy unprotected 18650 batteries and hopefully get my money back on the protected batteries I bought?
Hi all. I have a couple of these. One is perfect- flush fitting, no rattle. The other has a slightly looser battery door. There is a little play where the slot hinges sit meaning there is movement at this point which makes the battery cover too clicky. I think that the slots are being held a hair higher in the construction. It's too minor an issue for a return, but I do find it annoying. In all honesty, in a cheaper mod it wouldn't bother me so much. Anyone got an easy fix or is a skin the best option?
I'm having to put a brass washer on the negative end of the battery compartment before I close the door. Otherwise the VTR goes off an on; real pain. Has anyone found a permanent fix for this issue?
Thanks in advance.
kim
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Ordered 3-17, shipped 3-18 from the UK, I'm in Virginia.....
I scared the crap out of the mailman yesterday. I happened to be right at the front door when I heard the mailbox lid drop. Swung open the front door like a madman...
No joy
Now I wait.
Wismec 3 Battery? No good. Breaks within a year without dropping. Replicated on two mods.
Wismec 2/3 mod? Yet again, poor manufacturing. Wires not soldered properly. Almost lasted a year.
Squid Industries Double-Barrel? Craps out after 1 month without any damage. Wont turn on.
GeekVape Aegis Legend? 2 months and not reading the batteries right. Never so much as tipped over on my desk.
SMOK? Had more than I can count or bother to recall the exact models, but every one busted within a year.
None of them seem true to their warranties either. They make it as tedious a process as possible. I haven't tried with the Aegis Legend yet, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's probably more of the same.
At this point, I am convinced that I have spent more money on mods than I have on juice. These mods are all made like crap. I don't want to spend $80 every few months to get a new mod. I just want to vape for gods sake.
Has anyone had a mod that has lasted them over a year? What kind was it? I've asked this before and that's what led me to the Double-Barrel and the Aegis Legend. Both have failed on me even sooner than my previous attempts.
Some people build and drive them. Others do this:
400w 80A Delta - Imgur
Specs:
80A/400W Delta Delphi DC/DC Converter with custom designed breakout board
Red Powdercoat Diecast Aluminum Hammond 1590BBS and N52 Magnetic Door
IRLB3034PBF MOSFET switching
Venom 3S 40C 2200mAh LiPo Battery Pack with XT60 connector
Low Profile FatDaddy v4 Spring loaded 510 connector
Aegis legend has a squonk I've been looking at. One thing I dont like is it's a single battery mod. My vaporesso switcher is getting to be very well used. No problems with it but I bought it used and have had it nearly a year. I dont think my friend used it much before he sold it to me and for 20 bucks, I'm not at all disappointed with it. I just feel like maybe I'll be needing a new mod eventually and since I dont have a spare, and since a new mod does have that shinyitis appeal, well you know. Anybody tried this squonker yet? My only concern is the single battery thing. I just prefer two mostly. And my last experience with squonking was less than satisfying so I'm kinda wondering, do I try again or just get a regular aegis legend.
LONG STORY:
Following a previous thread (Question about battery and coils (Swag II)) I have been using Molicel P26A with my two Swag II's for a couple of months.
I purchased four batteries but I have been using only two of them. I always keep them in the Swags, since I use the Swags to recharge them. Practically I keep one of the Swags under charge while I am vaping with the other one.
I find this routine very convenient however I am wondering if that is the best way to recharge them. While a the begining both batteries were working quite well until they reached a 20% level, now one of them seems to be very weak as soon as it reaches 50%, and for that reason I have decided that it was time to replace it.
The other one is still Ok.
SHORT STORY:
Is it ok to recharge the P26A's with the Swag II's or should I use an external charger? Would an external charger significantly improve the life of the batteries?
Also, can an external charger fix a battey that seems to have lost 50% of its capacity.