Watch Your Temp...

So I have a bit of nic stored in a relatively affordable freezer (Freezer Model: EdgeStar CMF151L-1 1.1 Cu. Ft. Medical Freezer with Lock) that is rated for minimum temperatures of -20°C (-4°F) under room-temperature conditions.

There are more expensive freezers available rated for "LOW" -40°C, and some rated "Ultra Low" -80°C. I'm wondering if the benefits of storage at those deep freeze temps are worth the heavy investment of a medical\pharma designed freezer as opposed to an inexpensive one like I'm currently using.
What are your thoughts?

Also, I don't like just trusting an appliance to do it's job and hoping I discover if it fails on a whim. Some come with audible alarms if a certain temp is reached but I'm not even on the same floor as the appliance and wouldn't hear it so I'm looking at monitoring and alerting so when a configurable temp is reached lets say 20°F I'll get a notification either by text on my phone, email, or a phone app.
Below are contenders I've found on Amazon but not thrilled with any of them along with the non Amazon solution I'm going with.
Note: sensors can vary in design meaning some can connect directly to the internet via your home's wireless router and others require a separate device (Gateway) which they communicate with, and the gateway connects to the internet via your wireless router.
*La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe (~$30)
Sensor is inserted from outside the freezer through door seal which I do not like.
*SensorPush Wireless Thermometer and Gateway (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor + free monitoring + separate device (gateway) for internet communications but the sensor uses a tiny coin battery. Looks like changing the sensor battery will be a regular routine.
*Temp Stick Wireless Remote Temperature & Humidity Sensor (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor that uses 2x AA batteries but it is also the gateway which looks like it will burn through batteries as well requiring regular battery replacement.
*Winner*....
Monnit Wireless Temperature Sensor + Gateway + Basic Monitoring (~$325)
I'm going with the solution from "monnit.com" because they obviously provide commercial solutions with lots of technology development and appear to have quality products.
I'll use a wireless sensor + gateway + free monitoring. They have different levels of monitoring but the basic level is free for one user account with one network and since I have one freezer with one gateway I have one network. However if I had multiple freezers all talking with one gateway it would still be one network.
**ALTA Wireless Temperature Sensor - AA Battery Powered (~$105)
The sensor is wireless running on 2x AA batteries but it only needs to talk to the gateway so the batteries should last a very long time between changes.
**ALTA Ethernet Gateway 4 (~$220)
Gateway plugged in to your wireless router that communicates to the internet.
**iMonnit Basic (Software) (Free)
Mobile app that provides...
Wireless Sensor Monitoring
Remote Monitoring Solutions
Online Remote Monitoring

What are your thoughts?

Thanks all, hope this thread is helpfull.  

i'm using blu plus also i have two battery

but one of two's sensor express dull response.

another one's sensor is rather sensitive so there is no uncomfortable.

but other battery has dull sensor. so i have to imbibe rather strongly.

what's wrong with this?

how can i fix it? or how can i set default setting of sensor?

please give me any advice!!

thank you.  

So I picked up a 'spade bit' set for my drill and a block of wood at a home depot, went to town and made a little vape station:



In case anyone is interested here's what I used:

Spade bit set 1.5 inch sq. block of wood (pine?) (they cut a yard into three pieces) random piece of what I'm calling 'molding' to beautify the thing a touch A drill Just line up the spade bits with your devices to see which bits to use. Roughly measure how deep you will need to go into the wood so as not to go through the other side. Spade bits have a long pointy tip that protrudes beyond the cylinder they create, so using a different bit set would probably be ideal, this is a cheap/easy way to do it. With this setup you will have little indents in the center of each hole, but it doesn't bother me.

I still need to sand it, glue on the 'molding', and stain it. Should look nice after. Also, for the eleaf istick (50W) on the right, I had to drill 3 times with the same bit. The hole isn't perfect but some sanding should help. Mark your wood with pencil before drilling (measure twice cut once!), and/or do what I did and get 3 pieces in case you make a mistake (or want to expand later!).

Of course you could buy something like this, but this way you can have it be custom to whatever devices you happen to own. Cheap, efficient, space saving, easy to do (seriously, took me like 5 min to measure and 15 min to drill the holes).

Here's the spade bit set:

It rolls up nicely.

Here's the 'molding' with one of the un-drilled blocks:


I'll also note I have no experience doing anything like this, just kinda had a thought at the hardware store = )

Update

I sanded, stained, and poly-ed. It's not perfect but I'm happy:


He she is all loaded up:
 

You may remember I wrote the other day that I had lost the bottom switch on the telescopic Pisces that had arrived just a couple of hours before. I spent two days looking for it and going through the exercise routine of lying down on the floor and looking under furniture that has become so frequent now. I gave up and today I ordered another Pisces which was a clone anyway and didn't cost much at all. Worst case scenario I would have spare parts. So that was that and I stopped searching.

This evening hubby and I decided we wanted some spaghetti. I set the water on the fire and opened the freezer to get some Bolognese sauce I had frozen down. Lo and behold - there was my switch!! ~

Then it all came back to me. I had put it there deliberately because I had overtightened the lock and it got jammed. Like I do with all metals that get jammed I put it in the freezer and promptly forgot all about it!

So whenever you lose a part of your vaping equipment ALWAYS check the freezer before you do anything else.... unless of course you want to exercise.  

Temperature control testing results for the YiHi Sx Mini G Class are now available here and there are some particularly interesting issues to discuss imho: imgur.com/a/os23png

or

Temperature Control Testing Results: YiHi Sx Mini G Class (YiHi SX550j board) : electronic_cigarette

TLDR: This is an unusual one. You can get a sense from these charts of where the YiHi SxMini G Class got its reputation for being fast, accurate and smooth in temperature control mode, especially for when it came out a few years ago. But this mod created a range of challenges for our testing methodology and rig because of the pulsed (PWM) approach it takes to temperature control. What we do know for sure is that it does dry hit protection, and the temperature outcome falls within within a fairly narrow range that averages out to a fairly accurate and flat result, if a smidge too hot in most cases. But if what we are seeing is real, there may be a key difference that arises with this kind of temperature control method, where high fixed high power pulses produce rapid, tight, almost sawtooth changes in temperature in a narrow band. This is happening so fast it cannot be perceived in most states. This may be the basis for some of the subjective preferences for YiHi/PMW mods I have heard, such as it feeling "punchier" and producing better flavour (possibly from higher temperatures being reached which may have implications for those seeking to avoid thermal decomposition of their juice). Some insights may be drawn from the oscilloscope image at the end  

I know it sounds stupid, but I have a Home Depot gift card burning a hole in my pocket. Do they sell the kinds of batteries or chargers we use, or anything else that may be of use for a Vapor? Thanks for any help or ideas.  

Temperature control testing results are available for the DiCoDes Dani 25 using the stock SS profile, he imgur.com/a/89GNaPJ

or

Temperature Control Testing Results: DiCoDes Dani25 tube mod (~$300 USD) : electronic_cigarette

TLDR: This is a $400 AUD mod that doesnt produce a premium temperature control experience in many states. The method of temperature control this mod uses produces a wavy temperature experience you can both hear and feel in most cases. Like PWM, it creates a band of temperature outcomes from pulsing more power than it needs to keep the coil temperature maintained. It mostly succeeds at providing dry hit protection, but unless you are using high resistance high or high mass builds, there are smoother and more accurate outcomes on a range of cheaper mod. The TCR value can only be set in 5C steps so that makes it impossible to dial in but fortunately the built in SS mode (TCR92) is reasonably accurate and consistent on average. Overall the default SS setting is slightly under the set temperature. Between the premium priced boards, both DNA and YiHi methods produce a better temperature control outcome than this DiCoDes board in terms of smoothness, accuracy and range around the set temperature (I think objectively?). If someone wants to lend me a different DiCoDes to test, I will pay for shipping and be very careful with it.  

Hello ECF,

I've been creeping for a few weeks now, but finally decided to take the plunge and make an account. After countless hours (days...weeks??!!) of research, hopefully I am at the point where I form some sentences together about what I'm looking for in a set-up and ACTUALLY make sense. I came here asking for help, so please feel free to tell me if you think I made a wrong decision on anything below.

So, here is my story...(cut to end to see the quick and dirty version)

First and foremost, what I WANT out of the build is excellent flavor. Not quite as important but still important is large clouds and a "cool" factor. I'm leaning way towards DTL over MTL, as I never smoked a cig in my life and have no nicotine addiction. This is something that will be used with friends or when I'm bored, so maybe 1-2x/week. I wouldn't say there isn't a budget, but let's say I have no prob paying for the best quality/functioning gear.

For the majority of my research, I was pretty set on going sub-ohm. But more and more I was reading how if you really want flavor, RDA's can't be beat. Then I start thinking about squonking more and more, and now I think that might be the best of both worlds. I get the convenience of the "tank" (not having to drip, which is what I was most concerned with), and all the flavor benefits. Any learning curve with the squeeze and determining the quantity (if you can squeeze too much) should be minimal. I really think it's a good option for me. I'm really curious what the pros think.

Now, surely you'd all make fun of me behind my back if I didn't acknowledge the elephant in the room: the atomizer. I need to learn a lot here, still. Any and all help would be appreciated. Single coil vs. double coil? Mesh? RDA? What I DOOOOO know is I have no problem paying for pre-builts out of convenience, assuming they aren't impossible to find in stock most of the time.

Equal in both importance and the level of my ignorance on the subject is (are?) batteries! I don't want to die, folks. So any recommendations on 1 vs 2 batteries, battery size, is also needed.

Once the battery thing is figured out, I can look at mods. I don't mind paying a pretty penny for a mod, but what I want is function and reliability first. As mentioned previously, I want "cool", but to a point. For reference, what I have been trying to figure out how to buy is something from BMM. So far, all attempts to get into said facebook group have come up short. But I like the challenge of the hunt, and am willing to see what it takes to get. I've looked at numerous other brands, but am willing to hear what you recommend! And regulated?

There doesn't seem to be any shortage of juice on the market. They all sound soooooo good! Lots of opinions out there, too. I looked all over the place for higher-end juice and ordered way too many already (around 1,000 mL). They range in VG from 50 (I fell for 5 pawns)-90ish. Can I smoke that range out of the same coil?

I'm sure I forgot something, but that is plenty to start!! Thanks so much for anyone who took time to read that and for any assistance they can provide.

Quick summary version:

This will be my first vape set up. I know little about the technical side, but have used vapes often over the past few years. I don't smoke (cigs). I think I want a regulated squonk w/ RDA (don't think the learning curve will be that bad), and plan to buy pre-built stuff instead of build my own if that's a thing. I need to find out what battery size and how many to use. Box mod is up in the air, and probably of least importance. Juice ranges from 50-90 VG currently. In the future, I will probably stay closer to 70. Don't let budget prevent a recommendation.  

If indeed the vape mail ban puts an end to this party, I'm wondering how people are approaching it. Obviously there is cheap hardware and expensive hardware, with the idea that the "good" stuff will last longer. I'm thinking especially of box mods. For example, DNA chips. Are they supposed to last longer than what you get in a $40 mod?

So, are you buying fewer good things, or more cheaper things? Are you saving the good stuff for some day in the future and using up the cheap stuff now? Or are you using the good stuff, thinking that it will last a long long time.

Myself, I don't have a strategy on this but am interested to hear what others have to say.  

Hello everyone.

Now that I'm stuck at home I have been observing some things that I never realised before.

Where I am now it has been very cold (0°C and a bit lower sometimes) and my wicking is behaving differently.

When in normal daily routine/home, my atomisers are usually warmer when I give them first pulls of the day or pulls after some longer inactivity time. House or weather is warmer, because the setup was in my pocket or car, etc.

Now because the atomisers are reaching much lower temperatures, I have to be carefull on first pulls and avoid some chain vaping before they heat a bit (overall heating liquid included). If I forget and give some sequence pulls there's a big risk of dry hits.

I vape 70/30 or 80/20 vg/pg and it's very noticeable that the wicking speed changes a lot with temperature. I know the atomisers I'm using inside-out and know the wicking is perfect for my normal use. This is new to me.

Never realised how much liquid temperature influences wicking speed. This could explain a great number of people having problems with fast burned coils or fast burning cotton. Not only how you wick it matters but also we have to take into account environmental variables and vaping habits/timings.

Any thoughts on this?

Stay safe everyone.