Contact Pin Question?

So my contact pin is now steel colored instead of copper will this affect performance in any way? It doesn't seam like it but I don't know haha  

Anyone else had a negative experience?
I ordered a Mutant copper mod...
Mutant Copper Mod

This is what I ordered:


This is what I got:




I have been trying to contact them for two days, via their website, FB, and email...
It's like some guy just dropped his old mod in the box and...I dunno, tough luck?  

I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.

I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"


Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.

Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?


Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.


Help! :/  

As you might know, the mutation RDA has a post on the outside, one large one in the middle with 2 holes, and then another outside post I see a lot of people while building on a mutation putting the leads of their coils in the outside and then the hole further away, as seen in my crudely drawn photo=p i was just wonderingwhy not feed through the closer one, it seems a lot easier? i've been just rolling with the crowd and building using the 2 further ones.  

I have a snowwolf mini by sigelei kit and the mod has gone Haywire one day after the retailer warranty ended. My question is which warranty service should I contact? Sigelei is the parent company. Snowwolf is the branding that they're using I guess for this kit. Both sites have their own warranty contact information and I'm not sure which one to contact the little warranty card mentions nothing about the snowwolf but on the sigelei site the authenticity check does not work only on the snowwolf site so I don't really know which one to go through. If anyone's had any experience with this that would be great. I've heard mixed reviews but I would like to at least attempt to warranty this product seeing as how I've only owned two sigeleis and both of them went bad with in 31 days. It's worth a try anyway  

Hey guys. I have been in the vaping scene for a little while now. Just curious to what everyone likes to sub-ohm with.

My favorites so far.

Mutation X V3- 24 gauge dual parallel 5/6 wrap
Mutation X V4- 20 gauge dual 5/6 wrap or dual 6/7 wrap
Turbo RDA- both of the above builds work well

I've had the dark horse, doge and doge v2, freakshow, and a few other RDA's and the 3 above have been my favorite....v3 was my favorite for a while until I tried the v4, its now my favorite, and its a tie between the v3 and turbo for 2nd and 3rd place.  

Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?  

So no mine didn't melt haha but I was wondering what the best build would be for a plume so I could prevent this? I normally go with a .3 ohm build 24 gauge 7 wrap so yeah thanks guys!  

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.

People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.

I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.

I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.

I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!  

Hello just recently bought a mutation x v2 and built a .9 ohm dual coil and threw it on my smoktech xpro m80 and it hits like a champ but as soon as i throw it on my stingray it doesnt fire up for some reason