What's the difference between 504 and 304 stainless steel? And how does it effect vaping? It seems like those are the 2 that rdas are made out of most I think but yeah thanks!
I am kinda a noob when it comes to prebuilt coils. I am looking for coils that feel very strong/sturdy, but I am not sure what material it is.
I had coils that said they were .25ohm and all it says is "KA1 WIRE + Ni80 wire" and they felt very sturdy/hard to pull the wraps apart etc....
I bought what I thought were a good replacement for those, but they feel flimsy and easy to pull apart the wraps. They are .36ohm, 316l stainless steel, 30gx4/36g.
So apparently the stainless steel wires are more flimsy...I cannot seem to find coils that have KA1 + Ni80 like the sturdy coils I once had. I
am trying to figure out which material/what I need to look for in order for the coils to be sturdy like the old coils.
Can someone help me out with this? Thanks in advance.
Mod shows in tc mode to choose
Ss ti ni mi
Ss = stainless steel
Ti = titanium
Ni = nickel???
Mi = ??????????? Nichrome????? Wut is dat tingy
A couple days ago I met a guy at a party, and everytime he would take a hit of his mod it would make this whirring sound. Turns out he just picked up the new Turbo RDA by Tobeco which was designed by their USA Team "Ohm Nation". I have to say it is very innovative. I have never seen anything like it so of course I asked him the name and where he purchased it from. I finally got my hands on one and its a great RDA with the proper build. The whole design of it is a B+ the reason for that is...the airflow control (which is the upper piece and where the fan is mounted) is made out of plastic which is a big downside because once you get your coils fired up, the plastic SLOWLY begins to met and in my case, melted in peices of the wick. Other than that, the post are wide so it can accommodate lower gauge wires. The posts are also milled into the deck to prevent the posts from spinning and they also give you a super wide bore glass drip tip. Its also constructed out of 304 stainless steel. Overall, i am pretty happy with it and one of the builds that i believe best suits this is 20g Nichrome 5 Wraps. Its super hot, the fan definitely gets put to work and you're getting a lot vapor production.
It is definitely stands out on design and is DIFFERENT to what we usually see out there which I do love about this RDA. It's great that companies are getting creative and trying new things with the products they are creating. I do hope they revisit this and make the next one with a stainless steel airflow control. Other than that, wow.
I have a subtank mini and every drip tip I have doesn't fit. I really like the stratosphere stainless steel drip tip. Stratosphere Stainless Drip Tip - 510/901/KR808
But I don't wanna waste my money if it doesn't fit.
I am considering a stainless tank for their looks and durability. I have a phobia because I have never been able to not break anything made from glass, including pyrex. I tend to be kind of rough with my gear, and always prefer the most durable option. I'll probably drop it onto the tile floor, or concrete. It would render my tankomizer unusable, as well as wasting the e-liquid. Then, I'd be worried someone's pet would come and lick up all that poisonous nicotine and get sick, so I'd have to carry paper-towels around with me or something.
Is there a neat trick to gauging the e-liquid levels in the steel tanks, or is it always just a guessing game? Do you use time as a fuel gauge? Like, knowing how much juice you go through in an hour, then do math?
Is there some sort of magical electronic device that you hold up against the tank to read its levels? Or how about some special tiny floating magnets that surf the e-juice, then you see where a screwdriver sticks to the outside? I'm being facetious, of course. I'm just wondering if someone knows some cool trick, or if it's just unscrew it and peer into it: old school.
I did order an Aspire tank that is a neat looking stainless cage around the pyrex, which might be the best of both worlds, but I'll probably still break it.
Then there are those like the Joyetech Delta II with little slits for a sight-glass, but I think I want a KayFun with no window.
I've got another one of my most likely idiotic middle of the night burning questions. On my mods that have temperature control they usually will have all the usual Metals you know stainless steel nichrome titanium but then they'll also have an option just called TCR or called temperature control TCR. Can someone explain the difference to me like what exactly is TCR compared to temperature control and choosing which metal you're using?
I have an MFeng UX that have temp control built into it and I have a crown iv tank that has stainless steel coils with it out of the box. I tried the tank on an IStixking 530 mod with coil set to stainless, I tried a tcr of 0.000093(I think?) And kept the temp below 400. The Sticking said no juice detected, I looked it up, some people were able to use nickel and it work good. The coil died fast, and I wanna learn how to use temp control without ruining the other coil. Basically, I wanna use it on my mfeng, and not guess at what settings lol. Any advice?
So I"m thinking about getting a MELO tank so that i can have something for driving and being out and about. I have 2 big questions. 1) It says that the wicking material in the pre- built coils is something called 'glass fiber cotton"......what on earth is that? Surely to goodness they aren't using actual fiberglass but does this stuff actually contain glass? 2). It looks like a very well made piece. Does anyone know if it is 100% stainless steel (especially the chimney assembly and the coil) or is it that plated brass that will flake?
Hi, I am having a hard time finding a clearomizer that's mouth piece is not made of steel, I like the glass clearomizers, but it seems most I find for my istick 20v have steel. I am soon going to upgrade to a 50v but for now I am really having issues with my front teeth and tend to from time to time hit them a little and they are sensitive as it is. I am very new to vaping so I am not yet up to the rebuilds when I get better at this I will but till then this is what I am using.. any ideas will be helpful ... Thanx
I decided to retire my cheesy Eleaf ohm meter and step up to something unique and of much higher quality. USA Ohm Meters is now making 3D printed meter cases with a stainless steel floating 510. Accurate to +/- 0.018 Ohms. Very nice indeed. Can't wait until this thing shows up.