New Ce4's Won't Work, No Heat Or Vape. Used To Usual Breaking In Quirks

so i got this used iclear 30s from a friend for like 5 bucks he didnt want it anymore, and i filled it up and let it sit to soak the coils and now that i tarted using it, its barely giving any vapor, takes like 3 seconds to even heat up, and heres the weird part, i am vaping it at 20 watts with no burnt taste ... im not very knowledgable about tanks but im pretty sure at 20 watts that .... should be burning the hell out of my throat? How come it takes so long to heat up, gives no vapor, and im able to vape a t 20 watts??? is their any way to do something to fix it without buying a new coil?  

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


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I have said many times all mods break sooner or later. I dropped one and It quit working. I had to use an older mod I had for backup and it was usable but would randomly change the wattage. I bought a UWELL EVDILO a couple of months ago and it didn't work out of the box. I bought another mod the Vandy Vape Gaur-21. I received it yesterday. I like it but, I think the battery lights are not functioning properly. I used it for 24 hours and the battery indicators report the batteries are still at full charge. Doesn't seem possible. I am just sharing this info. Merry Christmas!  

OK so I have received my new mod. I've been using the derringer for quite so time and never noticed any inconsistency on any other device. But this is the only device I own that reads ohms. I chain vape like a champ and the derringer does get hot when I jump on the train. Once it heats up the ohms jump around erracticly. So I added a keppler heat sink to the derringer and poof problem solved. My questions are has anyone had this happen to them. Is the heat making the ohms jump around? Or is there some issue of contact with the positive pin? Or do I just have a faulty mod? Please share experienxes . Thanks gang.  

Hi,

I bought a new vape cartridge but it won’t work with the battery I have. The battery is charged and just flashes blue when it’s screwed in and pressed.

Do I need to buy a new battery?
Any info would be awesome. You can see the battery and cartridge in the photos.  

For the past 11 months I've been using a combination of kanger pro tanks and then more recently nautilus tanks with their respectful "throw away" atomizer heads. With these tanks I've been using either the itazte vv 3.0 or itazte VTR while keeping the vaping around 8-10 watts.

I've since purchased an Eleaf Lemo and have been making my own single coils in the same 1.8-2.5 range as the protank and nautilus coils.

Should I be able to and get successful results by cranking up the heat to let's say 12-15 watts now that I'm rebuilding the coils with cotton? Have the stock coils been holding me back in terms of cranking the heat? Maybe because they don't wick as well self-built coils?  

A bit of a technical question, I'm messing around with heat flux equations so as to calculate sweet spots on some of my more complex builds. If I want to run around 300 mW/mm² and my heat flux for a coil is 4.28 mW/mm² per watt, how do I calculate this? I think I know but I just want to be sure. Thanks in advance for any help.  

So I wonder what the logic is behind Amazon being okay with selling those heat not burn devices but not an e-cigarette I mean I understand they're not wanting to sell Ejuice like an actual tobacco products and instead only sell the separate components without the nicotine but wouldn't the heat not burn device be considered an ends device as well or is there some subtle difference that I'm not really understanding  

I had my vape on my pocket (vaporesso swag) and forgot to turn it off, then I felt heat coming from it and took it out and it was indeed hot and with a burnt smell. Also it had very little juice so the coil was burning I think. I have another coil so I can change it, but could the overall vape be damaged?  

okay so don't laugh but this is really an amazing vaping experience/setup for me! I have two batteries and a dual 18650 charger, so I never have to charge onboard nor do I find myself with no power since I always have at least one charging. I love the simplicity of the cloupor mini 30w. Between the magnetic battery door, simplistic screen/button setup, and the overall minuscule appearance of it, I think she's beautiful! The arctic tank however, I've had a could problems, but not too bad (Yes, I did allow my atomizer head to soak for a full 24 hours in juice.) Before I get into that tanks problems though, I'd like to also include that I've been getting into dripping aswell. I bought a plume veil clone a while ago for around 30$, and i was dumb enough to think that there was no need for a VV mod over $15... therefore I bought an X6 battery (cringe, I know..) and long story short I had a terrible experience. the wire that came with the rda was iffy, and it also came with silica wick; which I hate. I ended up building some kinda ****ed up maelstrom of a build. I used the cotton ends of ear cleaners, the questionable wire that came with the atty, and I ran it all at a mind melting 4.4v. Best part of it is that I had no way to check how many ohms I was pushin out. Anyways, I digress. First problem with the Arctic sub ohm tank was the "Check atomizer" deal on my cloupor. The problem was that the connector pin for the mini 30w isn't spring loaded, so I had to whip out the mini screw driver and adjust it. Once that was fixed, the atty was working perfectly!! Except, I was getting a little burnt taste. That's when I've learned that with this tank you have to start at a low wattage and work up to 30 when you're starting vaping for that session. The airflow is good, but I hate airflow; so it's even more splendid that the lowest airflow setting is barely any air at all. Really. It feels like sucking through a brick, and I like it. A ton of flavor, I vape eucalyptus mint flavored juice right now, and I'm loving it. I can't even express to you guys how much I'm loving this thing! Thanks for the advice in telling me to get it!