Hi,
Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.
You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal
The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)
A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.
it works, I Gar-on-tee it.
OK so I have a Vaporesso Veco Solo Kit and my tank is stuck. I've tried rubber gloves, rubber and pliers, lock pliers and anything else you can think of. The tank won't budge. I need to change my coil but how can I get this damn tank off.
Not the best picture but you can see the tank.
UPDATE: After continuous trying with multiple methods, my glass has decided to give up and is now in 4 pieces so I need either a new glass or new vape entirely.
I just got my new vape kit and it is a Vaporesso drizzle kit (the small one).
I have easily been able to take the top off but recently I actually noticed the airflow valve that you can open or close, and somehow I never noticed it was there and now that I do, I have huge problems trying to take the cap off also considering its a super small (ring) that you need to twist it just wont come off. I tried the rubber gloves, the alcohol, and the hot water but none of them did anything.
Sundays at work are slow, we rarely see customers, so we mainly focus on store tech work and upkeep. My coworker and I finished all the back orders about 3 hours into an 8 hour shift. My Nemesis mod was getting pretty dirty and I haven't had a chance to clean the metal up in a few days, I also noticed the finish was getting very dull, nothing a bit of sand paper wont fix!
unfortunately I forgot to take a before picture, so sorry for lack of reference.
I started by using some 800 grit sand paper to remove the finish, then polished the mod with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish. the threads got cleaned, and every bit of oxidization was cleared off. going to finish it off with some 200 grit tomorrow and then give it a clear epoxy coat, but for now she is shiny and chuckin the vapes in style.
Hi guys have had the IPV mini v2 for about a month now and haven't had a problem thus far but my battery cap is now stuck and it won't budge at all I don't remember over tightening it at all only until it catches but it just won't budge :/ I've tried everything using rubber hands, pliers even wearing merigolds because they have a lot of grip but nothing :/ can anyone suggest anything?
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Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.
Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.
People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.
I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.
I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.
I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!
I have an istick 20V which I use an Aspire tank ... the adapter is stuck to the bottom of the tank I cant unscrew it. any one have an idea how to remove it other than pliers and ruining either the bottom of my tank or the adapter?... I tried hot water n soap but no go. any suggestions will be appreciated
Hi
As one of Caliburn users I encountered problem with opening pod cap/drip tip for refiling. On some pods it is very tight, a few times I had to use pliers and spend considerable amount of time still. I even contacted Uwell directly about this and had been told that the problem is known and basically I have to deal with that.
The problem is hidden in inner top portion of the pod cap. There are 2 notches/teeth pointing down, those are going into juice fill holes and thus holding the cap in place. And in addition, it is very hard to grab the cap to pull it up, I wish it had some kind of bumps for better finger's traction.
Here is the answer to this, the cheapest and the simplest possible.
Get some cheap tweezers and bend tips inwards, creating hooks on both sides. Take a new pod and crab the cap from the top so the end points of those hooks will go under the outer cap sides from both sides of the pod, then gently pull up, one side at the time. It took me about 30 seconds to open tight fitted cap.
See simple, rudimentary pictures below.
All the videos on the KBOX complained about the irritating threads (like fingernails on a chalkboard) for the battery compartment, so I lubed mine when I got it with the lube I use for my flashlight's threads - SuperLube, and it's been great! Very smooth, feels very good to unscrew/screw.
Just wondering if others do this, and if it's bad to do for some reason. If it's not bad (like flashlights), then I highly recommend doing it! Make a HUGE difference in usability and enjoyment!
Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up
Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?
This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.
Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.
- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.
- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.
- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.
- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.
- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).
- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.
- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.
- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.
- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.
- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).
If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.