Rocket Cars!

So, here's the deal. My new mod was delivered today. I knew it had a fixed stainless 510 connector, but I wasn't worried. Anyway, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but the tank keeps coming loose on the mod. I know I am probably not cranking it down tight enough, but I am afraid of going too tight and screwing up the threads.

So, I am looking for an adaptor that has a spring loaded pin on both sides. Spring loaded on the battery side and spring loaded on the atty side. Is there such a thing? I would also prefer that this is 22mm wide. Any ideas?  

I'm currently looking to buy a parallel box mod with MOSFET, found one on eBay and the MOSFET it has is "Have a International Rectifier single N-channel mosfet, IRLB3034PBF, in them." Is that any good or does is every MOSFET the same?  

Continued from he
Personal progress and ramblings

First off, I have no complaints. Happy as ever

I'm using the dripper at 2mg 95% of the time. There is 4-5ml consumption daily. One 18650 charge lasts nearly the entire day. Unfortunately I'm not able to go any lower on the nic or I get REALLY pissy at work. 1mg = pissy and 2mg = potentially rational. Weird, isn't it?

All I can do at the moment is vouch for what I'm vaping and possibly it will help someone.

The blue box is a diy dna40 with a fatdaddy connector . The dripper is a Veritas with a dual series coil (28g/2mm/14 wraps total) and Japanese cotton. Runs at 23W/400deg.
The black box is a lipo vaporshark version with a dna40 and fatdaddy connector installed. No problems but I would not suggest this particular route for anything but a backup. Runs at 7.7W/420deg. The kayfun has (32g/2.5mm/6 wraps)

All of the juices are DIY. I put in a blog entry with how I'm doing this.

All of it has worked flawlessly in the recent months. This is what I'm really happy about.....I've actually left the wick in the dripper for six weeks. I never thought things would be this easy. All it needs is fresh charges and juice otherwise. After six weeks the cotton gets thin inside the coils and the coils themselves get buildup. I probably could have let it go for another two weeks just fine. Hard to beat the veritas for a carry dripper. Sure, there is some occasional "sweating" but no wet spots on the pocket.

The goal still remains...how to get to 0mg without loosing my job?  

It seems the spring on my 510 connector has come off. I have the spring. Is it any type of way I can fix it? Or an I screwed?  

Molicel 18650s are ever so slightly bigger than samsungs. I found this the first time I popped a couple in my mod. The fit was a little bit tight. Now as this applies the the legend, the battery door being on the bottom and spring loaded, it's a bit of effort to close it. Not a deal breaker but i just need to make sure its closed securely. Now, lol, this morning I put in some freshly charged batteries, closed the cover and set it down only to have the door pop back open. The spring on this door was strong enough to flip my mod over when it popped open. Its probably only funny if you were here an saw this happen.  

The width and thread size of the 510 connector is standardized, but why is the length not?

I tried my best to understand why not from a design or engineering standpoint, but I can't work it out. Not only would it make life simpler when changing attys. But it would eliminate screw and spring loaded 510 pin adjustment, and all the the issues associated with them.

Any ideas anyone?  

okay so don't laugh but this is really an amazing vaping experience/setup for me! I have two batteries and a dual 18650 charger, so I never have to charge onboard nor do I find myself with no power since I always have at least one charging. I love the simplicity of the cloupor mini 30w. Between the magnetic battery door, simplistic screen/button setup, and the overall minuscule appearance of it, I think she's beautiful! The arctic tank however, I've had a could problems, but not too bad (Yes, I did allow my atomizer head to soak for a full 24 hours in juice.) Before I get into that tanks problems though, I'd like to also include that I've been getting into dripping aswell. I bought a plume veil clone a while ago for around 30$, and i was dumb enough to think that there was no need for a VV mod over $15... therefore I bought an X6 battery (cringe, I know..) and long story short I had a terrible experience. the wire that came with the rda was iffy, and it also came with silica wick; which I hate. I ended up building some kinda ****ed up maelstrom of a build. I used the cotton ends of ear cleaners, the questionable wire that came with the atty, and I ran it all at a mind melting 4.4v. Best part of it is that I had no way to check how many ohms I was pushin out. Anyways, I digress. First problem with the Arctic sub ohm tank was the "Check atomizer" deal on my cloupor. The problem was that the connector pin for the mini 30w isn't spring loaded, so I had to whip out the mini screw driver and adjust it. Once that was fixed, the atty was working perfectly!! Except, I was getting a little burnt taste. That's when I've learned that with this tank you have to start at a low wattage and work up to 30 when you're starting vaping for that session. The airflow is good, but I hate airflow; so it's even more splendid that the lowest airflow setting is barely any air at all. Really. It feels like sucking through a brick, and I like it. A ton of flavor, I vape eucalyptus mint flavored juice right now, and I'm loving it. I can't even express to you guys how much I'm loving this thing! Thanks for the advice in telling me to get it!  

Greetings,
i just picked up the Delta 2, but it's whistles like a dying birdy. Anyone else experienced this?
thanks,
John  

Temperature Control Testing results for the DNA 75C board (Lostvape Paranormal) using the Steam Engine SS316L profile are available he

Temperature Control Testing Results: DNA 75C LostVape Paranormal Using Steam Engine SS316L Profile : Vaping

OR imgur.com/a/EOL9hRE

TLDR: You might expect that the DNA75C results would be better than the DNA75 (original) results, and while the results are largely comparable in most states, there is some overheating and more volatility compared to the classic DNA 75 under the same conditions, shown here imgur.com/a/7Pe3Gad. However, under the "new" test using a dual coil high mass low to mid resistance build, the result was one of the best I have ever seen for any state on any mod in terms of accuracy and flatness (but I have no prior results for this test to comapare to). Using the stock SS316L profile or DJAquith 3.5 did not produce better results. You can see the results using the DjAquith 3.5 results, he imgur.com/a/Abf57Fi. The Steam Engine 316L profile was still the most accurate according to this rig/analysis and as best as I could tell from my thermocouple.  

Hello there people. I have recently wanted to build a lipo box mod. I will be using a 4s 2200 mah batterie that is nano tech.i will also be using a pwm chip/board as well. The questions I have are since I am using a pwm chip/board do I still need the safety of the mosfit with a 15k resistor? Does my firing button need a 15k ohm resistor as well? Do I need to us a 555 timer chip?