Sundays at work are slow, we rarely see customers, so we mainly focus on store tech work and upkeep. My coworker and I finished all the back orders about 3 hours into an 8 hour shift. My Nemesis mod was getting pretty dirty and I haven't had a chance to clean the metal up in a few days, I also noticed the finish was getting very dull, nothing a bit of sand paper wont fix!
unfortunately I forgot to take a before picture, so sorry for lack of reference.
I started by using some 800 grit sand paper to remove the finish, then polished the mod with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish. the threads got cleaned, and every bit of oxidization was cleared off. going to finish it off with some 200 grit tomorrow and then give it a clear epoxy coat, but for now she is shiny and chuckin the vapes in style.
Hi,
Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.
You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal
The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)
A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.
it works, I Gar-on-tee it.
Was happily vaping with a 1.2 ohm build on the RBA with istick 20w. Today I finally got my 30w mod, so exited to try sub ohm, switch to the 0.5 ohm occ coil and wrap the deck with tissue paper and leave it on my table, go out enjoy the Vape than come back to my desk continue work and forgot about the deck.
by the time I finish all my work, I plan to switch back to the 1.2ohm RBA deck, by that time I realize that the tissue on my desk missing. Search for some time than remember before I go out Vape i clean my desk, than turn and look, dustbin has been empty......I'm so sad.
i wonder is it posible to get only that section? I have contacted kanger, hope they reply soon.
i love that RBA.
OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.
I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.
I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.
I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.
Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.
Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.
Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.
What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.
This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.
The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.
Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.
Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!
Don't get me wrong, I love to vape. But I do miss the convenience of analogs. Every corner store carries your brand, it's easy to bum a smoke from a friend or even get a light from a stranger. Vaping isn't that easy.. Today I replaced the coil in my atlantis before leaving home for the day. I suppose I should've tested it before I left the house but I haven't had a stock coil fail yet. So about a hour away from home I pulled my sx mini out of my lunch box and was looking forward to a vape. But it gave me an error, check atomizer. So I unscrewed the tank and double checked the coil was snug to the base and no moisture was under the coil. I also checked the floating pin on my sx mini and everything seems good n clean. Still I get the message, check atomizer.. Sooo frustrating because I'm a hour away from home with no backup vape and no extra coil.. I broke down and had a terrible death stick. Couldn't even finish it due to taste and smell. It's just not my vape. Anyways no one else at my work vapes so I had to vent to some other fellow vapors.. I can't wait to get home and get another coil!!
So I always like to keep my stuff nice and shiny but when I clean the devices I sometimes notice some green stuff around the thread connections on both my vaporizer and the tank. I would take pictures but I just cleaned them off and thought to post a question AFTER (yeah I'm a smart one). It's easy to clean, just a qtip or paper towel, both dry, and it comes right off. Is this normal?
I haven't been having much luck with the two egrips I ordered. The first had broken plastic on the inside (little bits of plastic were caught in the threads, and had probably fallen into the tank). Number one is on its way back to the vendor.
On number 2, the atomizer base won't sit flush with the bottom of the device, and I think it's causing all the gurgling and leaking (e juice was also leaking out of the bottom of the device). I tried taking off the atomizer head and reseating it, and that didn't work. I'm hoping a new base might fix this problem. Any ideas?
Both devices are brand new. When I ordered the first one, I wasn't aware that it was available in a wood finish, so I ordered the second one.
I clean the contacts of my mods about once every 2 month with a little bit of metal polish. It has been working well so far. My problem is the batteries. There are marks where the contact points of the mod touches them. Can I clean that with metal polish as well? I tried scratching them out with my fingernails but it doesn't work. If I can't use metal polish then what other cleaning agent can I use? Thanks in advance.
Just picked up a couple of used Aspire CF VVs from someone in my local FB vape group. I got them on the cheap as backup devices should something I have fail, but I noticed that the connection pins on them are pretty darn dirty. Is there any way I can clean them off? I don't want to try submerging them in anything, or really using any kind of liquid, because I'm afraid of ruining them. Any advice?
Would you pay a ~18% premium for 316 over 303? Talking attys here. My knee-jerk reply is yes, I would pay extra for 316 but then I wonder if the machining would be better using 303. Not saying 316 can't be cleanly machined (as in correctly machined, w/o excessive chattering, rough finish, etc.), but when considering a Chinese clone that sells for less than $20.00, I tend to lean towards a 303 atty having a better chance at cleaner machining, given the probable maintenance (or lack thereof) given to equipment producing cheap clones.
Thoughts?
Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up