Hey everyone. I got my triton today. Going to load up 2 geysers on it, as it is a dual atty, parallel battery mod. My question is this, does this setup draw individual powers from a dedicated battery to the atty atop it, or is the parallel power running both attys, in which case what should I know about building my rdas for this setup? Can I have 2 different resistences, 1 for each rda? I did see this in a video and thought why would anyone do that? Also, does this change the allowable resistence? I'm using 35A batteries (mxjo) so the math suggests .12 as the lowest safest res single battery. (I rarely dip below .3). And no i don't want to start a discussion on whether or not those are actually LG's lol. I'm aware of all that hubub. Thanks!
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Sorry, do t know where to post this. Has anyone ordered from vape b2b before? They are out of China. Thoughts?
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I have the ipv4 on pre order (can't wait) im stuck on the battery choice. I want to find the best choice for a vv/ww mod. With the most mahmp life and amp draw load. I was thinking about the LG HE4 . 2500MAH 35A High drain. I heard the efest purple has great battery life. But I enjoy lower builds. .15-.2 occasional .1 . I just want the safest battery with the most load and lifespan. Anyone with some info plz enlighten me. We gotta stay safe. Thxx
okay so don't laugh but this is really an amazing vaping experience/setup for me! I have two batteries and a dual 18650 charger, so I never have to charge onboard nor do I find myself with no power since I always have at least one charging. I love the simplicity of the cloupor mini 30w. Between the magnetic battery door, simplistic screen/button setup, and the overall minuscule appearance of it, I think she's beautiful! The arctic tank however, I've had a could problems, but not too bad (Yes, I did allow my atomizer head to soak for a full 24 hours in juice.) Before I get into that tanks problems though, I'd like to also include that I've been getting into dripping aswell. I bought a plume veil clone a while ago for around 30$, and i was dumb enough to think that there was no need for a VV mod over $15... therefore I bought an X6 battery (cringe, I know..) and long story short I had a terrible experience. the wire that came with the rda was iffy, and it also came with silica wick; which I hate. I ended up building some kinda ****ed up maelstrom of a build. I used the cotton ends of ear cleaners, the questionable wire that came with the atty, and I ran it all at a mind melting 4.4v. Best part of it is that I had no way to check how many ohms I was pushin out. Anyways, I digress. First problem with the Arctic sub ohm tank was the "Check atomizer" deal on my cloupor. The problem was that the connector pin for the mini 30w isn't spring loaded, so I had to whip out the mini screw driver and adjust it. Once that was fixed, the atty was working perfectly!! Except, I was getting a little burnt taste. That's when I've learned that with this tank you have to start at a low wattage and work up to 30 when you're starting vaping for that session. The airflow is good, but I hate airflow; so it's even more splendid that the lowest airflow setting is barely any air at all. Really. It feels like sucking through a brick, and I like it. A ton of flavor, I vape eucalyptus mint flavored juice right now, and I'm loving it. I can't even express to you guys how much I'm loving this thing! Thanks for the advice in telling me to get it!
I currently use Halo's Triton batteries and I like the batteries but I do not like the tanks. I have been having issues with them wicking and it's annoying. I use the batteries now with the regular cartomizers because the cartos always work and I don't have to fiddle with them. The problem is they are a regular carto and don't hold much juice so I'm always topping them off. I've always like the streamlined look of the triton and ego style batteries and the battery life is ok on them but I'm tired of having to fiddle with crap. I just want to pour in some juice and be able to vape for a while without worrying about anything.
I have noticed the Isticks and they actually look kinda cool but I'm still concerned about jumping into the box mod world. My other concern is what tank would you use on them that would be better than the Triton tanks, do they make some that are hassle free and you can just vape and maybe screw on a new coil every week or two. Another thing is it seems all the new tanks out there have metal mouthpieces and I HATE those, they feel horrible on my lips. I like the regular plastic kind that don't get cold or hot but are just normal feeling (if that makes sense).
If someone could please give some advise on a tank, there are so many new things out there and I'm lost. I have been vaping off and on for several years but have never found anything to keep me off cigs for more than 6 months at a time because of all the fidgiting thats involved. Also any thoughts about going from an ego style battery to a Istick.
Thanks for any and all help. This stuff is so confusing to me.
Here are Two pics of a hybrid mod top cap I recently bought. As you can see, the positive tab on the battery is directly connected to your 510 pin or whatever it comes in contact with at the bottom of your atty.
Here is a pic of the 510 pin on the bottom of the Atlantis:
The pin simply pushes into a grommet and floats there. If the pin comes in contact with the side of the atty it will short the circuit and if left there will short the battery. Notice how close the pin is to the sides of the atty. If that grommet gets deformed in any way, that pin can touch those sidewalls and short the circuit. After screwing and unscrewing the atty on and off mods, that pin and grommet can move out of its centered position. On a hybrid mod if this atty is over tightened directly onto the positive tab of the battery, the pin can MASH down onto it, deform the grommet and touch the sidewall causing a short. Someone not aware of this with little experience has a ticking time bomb in their hands. Be safe out there.
Hey Guys,
I have been wanting to use a mech mod for quite some time now. But I didn’t want to rush into things, given that they can be dangerous if not used properly.
To prepare I have studied ohm’s law and have a pretty decent grasp on it. And have a calculator app on my phone.
I have checked out Mooch’s battery recommendations and have a good idea of what batteries to use and which to avoid.
I still do have a few questions I was hoping an experienced Mech user could help me answer:
- What would be the “sweet spot” as far as resistance and safety go for a dual coil set up? Obviously I want to go as low as possible and have a hard hitting vape. But I also want to be safe. I plan to use a dual 18650 Parallel mod (The Clutch X18). I would be most likely be using Sony Murata batteries as I cant find any Samsungs where i live. I’m thinking somewhere around 0.17-0.2? Or would it be safe to go lower than that? I will of course test my build on an ohm reader and regulated mod before throwing it on the mech to be safe.
- Are there any other general safety tips? Ive heard that you want to screw the Atty down all the way first, before inserting the batteries. And then insert the batteries. And when removing the batteries i heard you want to slightly unscrew the atty first, and then carefully remove the batteries? Can anyone please confirm if this is correct.
- Is its safe to chain vape on a dual 18650 parallel mod? When I say chain vape I mean like maybe taking 5-6 big hits back to back. Then waiting 3-5 minutes, dripping some juice and then doing another 5-6 hits.
- Is there anything I should be monitoring while I’m vaping? Like the heat of the batteries? From what I’ve read, the batteries drain quite fast on a mech. And after some experience you will just kind of know when they need charging because the vape experience changes. Is there anything I’m missing? Or something i should be looking out for?
- I can only vape in my kitchen. And sometimes there might be a little bit of water on the counter from someone’s drink sweating, or drops after someone washed their hands etc. Is this a risk? I will of course do my best to keep all surfaces dry. I’m not talking about large amounts of water or submerging or getting the mod really wet. But just what one might find on a kitchen counter.
- Any other tips you could throw my way would be great!
Thanks in advance!
I'm having a mad time trying to find a tank or clearo to fit a relatively small battery to upgrade from my triton without having to go to a MOD set-up I need a nice drip-tip too.It seems like an in between of my Triton tank and a MOD I can't quite find the vapor production I'm looking for I lowered my ohms on the triton 1.8 it did produce a bit more vapor but the tanks just aren't built for those ohms and they run to hot.I've already gone through three coils.I looked at the Aspire Nautilus mini premium kit not completely sold on it, eGo One battery with Nautilus mini but I think the tank I'm looking for should hold more e-liquid.Any help here much appreciated.
I'm just breaking in my Nautilus on my Aspire battery, as of yet I expected a bit more vapor production from this set-up at least 2x more than my Triton.When puffing on it frequently, it runs a bit hot even with the 1.8ohm coil.Eiether the Nautilus or the battery likes the 1.8ohm coils better than the 1.6ohms why is that?I also experienced leakage and gurgling. Once I put a new coil in, that went away. I'm just thinking how can I get a bit more vapor production.It's better than my Triton but not by much.Is it the battery?
An online vape shop here at Greece at the description for dotBox Dual Mech mod says"
"Switch to Parallel Mode for longer Vaping time and exceptional power from two 18650 batteries".
The dotbox dual mech has the option to select series or parallel connection via a switch.
I send them a email that this doesn't apply (for the same power output always),for example 0.1 ohm coil in parallel connection and 0.4 ohm coil in series connection.
Two batteries in series provide the same amount of watt hours a parallel connection does.
The vapeshop replied and told me that the description is copy and paste from Dotmod.com
Indeed.
QUOTE from dotBox Dual Mech - dotmodretail
"Last Longer. Switch to Parallel Mode for longer Vaping time and exceptional power from two 18650 batteries".
The vape shop also said that the voltage sag at parallel connection is spread out over the two batteries in Parallel.Thus more vaping time than using a series connection.
Okey I made the calculations for voltage sag using for example two Sony VTC5A 18650 batteries with a DC Internal Resistance = 18.6mOhms (0.018 ohm).
I got the same voltage sag 0.378 V in both configurations (0.1 build in parallel-0.4 build in series).
Am i correct or am I missing something?(i'll send to the vape shop the link for this thread so they can read your opinions because i think they believe i'm talking bulls..t!
So I have (2) 3100mAh Efest batteries rated @ 20A and (1) 2500mAh Efest batterie rated @ 35A. I'm experiencing a pretty annoying problem with all 3 of them and that is they aren't lasting nearly as long as I feel they should be. I can EASILY vape through a battery in less than one hour while heavy vaping. I'm aware that I am sub-ohming and that requires more power from the battery but these are just going way too fast and something isn't right. I have a BEC Pro mod that takes a single 18650 battery and I'm vaping an Aspire Atlantis tank @ 35 watts with the .5 ohm coil installed. I charge each battery fully with a Nitecore i2 before using them and it'll say 4.2V on my mod & on my Smart BEC app it will say 100% as I take my first few puffs but then starts draining at a ridiculous rate until they are dead. I am not aware what the mod efficiency is on my BEC Pro or if there might be something not working properly within my device. Can someone please help me find what's wrong with these? Maybe some of you have eperienced this problem with Efest batteries in the past? Thanks in advance!
Edit: These are genuine Efest batteries as I bought them straight from the manufacture on Ebay.