Thread Cleaning With Magic Eraser

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

Hey, i just wanted to say how helpful old threads are. I've been looking everywhere for grub screws for my Zeus X rta. 2 mins on here and found them in a 2 year old thread. Thanks ECF and members problem solved  

Given some of the discussions in other threads that have taken over the original posters reason for the discussion and purpose of that thread . . . AND - Although there are other threads already having this type of discussion/discourse that people ignore or pass on (Don't really know their reasons why they refuse to post there where the same discussion is happening) . . . SO - This thread is only being created to hopefully move the ongoing disruptive conversation in other threads and have a specific thread opened for that discussion - instead of having it spread through-out so many other threads - in effect changing the main topic of discussion and why People are there in the first place . . .

This threads main purpose is to discuss and/or further debate - of course following ECF (This is NOT "OUTSIDE") - these personal opinions and commentaries . . .

SO - What is it that you perceive is going to happen - once Deeming Regulations, Federal, State, an even Local laws/restrictions are passed (or already have been passed) . . . AND - Are actually finally enacted . . .

The Government Does Nothing - Only the present Rules & Regulations go into effect, People over 21 will still be able to continue to purchase vape products (maybe with some limitations), Vape in their home/cars/designate areas out in public . . . Will there be current or even more - Grey Market - Black Market . . . Will there be Police Raids (both on commercial venues/private homes) - Products Seized by Customs - Arrest made for "Vaping" in public and or for distribution when sharing with others/passing along equipment/e-liquids, etc. to Family & Friends - Or for "Vaping" while driving . . .​


OKAY - If Ya' got something to say or an opinion or better yet actual FACTS to share - here is the thread to do it . . .

JUST REMEMBER - This thread is NOT "OUTSIDE" and Civility is a MUST for everyone - NO, Matter what your personal views are . . .



Have Fun. . . .

EDIT: BTW - I have absolutely no intentions on participating in this discussion/discourse - nor provide any personal insights/opinions/feelings about this subject - this thread is here to allow everyone else a place to do so and keep it out of other on going threads that have nothing to do with future conjecture/s of their personal perceived opinions of "What Is Going to Happen" . . . Just Sayin' . . .


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I just noticed that my clearomizers (eGo thread) are getting a buildup of black residue on the threads and I am trying to figure out where it is coming from. Is It from dried leaked juice or from the metal corroding?  

All the videos on the KBOX complained about the irritating threads (like fingernails on a chalkboard) for the battery compartment, so I lubed mine when I got it with the lube I use for my flashlight's threads - SuperLube, and it's been great! Very smooth, feels very good to unscrew/screw.

Just wondering if others do this, and if it's bad to do for some reason. If it's not bad (like flashlights), then I highly recommend doing it! Make a HUGE difference in usability and enjoyment!  

Just curious....I love the clone/ authentic threads. People get pretty "passionate" about what other people choose to spend their money on....its kinda crazy.

I was just curious if anyone ever changed their stance on buying or not buying clones after reading one of the thousands of angry debates about clones vs. authentics.

My stance has remained steady since the beginning. I still don't care what you use.  

All of the sudden I wake up today and notice my 510 threading on my sigelei 50w box mod is jacked up. I cleaned the threads on my subtank mini and on my sigelei mod. I then tried screwing it onto my mod and now no matter what I try , there's a gap between the top of the mod and the bottom of the subtank (it's not screwing down all the way and has about a 3mm gap, hence now it won't fire...

I screwed my subtank onto my ileaf 30w and screws in flawlessly, so it's the sigelei threads ...

but I did pay a lot for my sigelei and prefer its hits , I dunno, I usually Vape about 16W on my sigelei And not sure how that translates over to what wattage I should run the eleaf at ?

Also, I just noticed that my spare RDAs will still screw onto my sigelei well..I'm so confused what's up !!!!  

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.

People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.

I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.

I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.

I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!  

Vaping rocks.... But cleaning this stuff off my car windows is worse than smoking ever was. I've read threads about people having it on their TVs and glasses. I have yet to experience that. Does anyone have it gather on their walls? What is it? Can't be water because it evaporates off. I'm curious to know what this residue is....  

Why are there endless threads about them breaking. Centerpost spinning, shoddy millwork, peeling metals, bad screws, bad threads, janky 510's, bad rubber, broken insulators. The list is endless. I think the one thing everyone agrees on is that they are CHEAP.