Tips On Wicking / Re-wicking

I just re wicked my coils and now the flavor seems muted. I used more cotton this time but not sure if it's that or the cotton itself. I usually dry burn and re wick about 2 to 3 times before replacing the coils and this would be the first time I've re wicked these coils. I use Japanese cotton I ordered from fasttech. Has anyone had issues with their cotton? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.  

Hi,
I'm posting because I just encountered some silica wick on ebay while looking for pre-built coils and different kinds of pre-built wire.
I've only used cotton so far- gonna get some rayon eventually but I think I'll order some from USA, people here in UK buy the rayon in bulk from US and resell it by meter for ridiculous price. And whatever material Smok supplies with their RBA heads for TFV12 tank (I must say this material was pretty good, used it both in smok tfv12 rta and berserker mini rta, wicked well, tasted fine and lasted slightly longer than my normal muji cotton. It's gone now so I can't post a picture.).

Anyway- I tried to research here about silica wick but the latest posts were from 2013. Same on youtube- bunch of old videos. Found a thread with a few posts on reddit from like 3 years ago with some folks saying they still use silica wick, claiming the taste is cleaner, you can't physically burn it, you can dry burn it, lasts longer etc.
Why is it not popular anymore, why has it disappeared? Is it worth giving a shot? What are the disadvantages, as clearly there were some advantages I found, but there must have been a reason for folks to abandon this material (other than the one mention below)?

Wicking the coil itself is not a big concern for me, I've read about trouble to get it through a coil and I think I know how to deal with it.

Thanks  

Hey all.

So I've been vaping since January. I started out on a kanger ego and an aspire k1. Since then I've gone through aspire cf batteries, and finally made my way to my current set up. An mvp 3.0 or istick50w with my subtank mini.

At first using the stock occ coils with the subtank, I decided to buy some wire and cotton and here I am. Been building my own coils using the RBA section and loving it. I wick it properly and never get a dry hit, going anywhere from 18-25 watts, which is my preferred settings.

Now, it's only my preferred settings because I can't seem to go any higher. On either device. I get dry hits like crazy despite pancake wicking which I've specifically done to prevent said dry hits. I always have heard that it can possibly taste better the hotter it gets. And I don't mind a hot vape. But it won't let me try!

I'm well saturated, well wicked, and my juice can be anywhere form 50/50 to 70/30pg. I can do quick pulls on fully open, and slower toots on the middle setting on the subtank. I just can't go any higher than 25watts and I don't know why!


And that's not for just the coils I built. It's for the stock occ .5 ohm coil as well. And like I said all my cotton is beyond well saturated. Any help?  

I have been using an evod for two years now. Yeah, I know, minor leagues, but it gets the job done just fine for me.

For the first 18 months I was constantly buying new coils. I work from home so I can basically vape all I want and I vape A LOT. I use Swagger as my ADV and it will destroy a coil in just a couple days. It was becoming difficult to even find coils to buy and it was getting expensive, so I did some research on rebuilding my own coils. At first I tried to build them with silica wick, but I could never get them to work right. Using 1mm silica wick wrapping around a stick pin the wraps would always be too big and there was lots of leak/gurgling. So I went the cotton route and would wrap around a 1/32 drill bit and then slide the cotton through the coil. Works great, perfect ohms, great flavor. I've been doing this for the past six months. In the first 18 months of vaping I never got sick once. Since I've been using the cotton wicks I've been SEVERELY sick twice (probably a respiratory infection but never went to the Doc), and now I feel like I'm getting sick AGAIN.

I've noticed that I can see little flecks of what looks like cotton building up on the mouthpiece, and I'm assuming, going into my lungs. I think this is what is making me sick--the buildup over time. Anyone else had issues with this? I think I may have reached the end of my rope with vaping and now maybe I'll do what my original intention was (quitting altogether after vaping for a short period of time).

Anyone have any tips on rebuilding coils with silica? I've watched a million Youtube videos and replicate the process perfectly, but the wraps end up being twice the size they should be and I've been unable to slide silica wicks into the coil like I do with cotton because even at 1mm it's too big to fit through the hole. Thanks for any help.  

Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.

Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.

I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.

I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.

No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.

This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).

So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?

WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????  

I just got some japanese cotton pads and I have been building my rba section in subtank for a little while with organic cotton balls and have noticed that after I take a puff off of it I get this sizzling after I let go of the button I've read it could be to much cotton but I tried a very little amount of cotton and still get sizzling.. I'm using twisted 30 awg. Reading at .4 any idea?  

ok ... so there was a thread that showed insect droppings in some cotton someone got with a RBA ... but I can't seem to find it.

So I thought I'd have a look at the cotton sample in my Kanger Subtank Mini & .. sure enough ... bug bits & little black "dots" (bug poop I assume). Okay ... fine ... I've not used it & will not use it. I have enough cotton (bacon) to keep me going for years, and I'm happily puffing away on the .50ohm OCC premade coil supplied by ........

........and then it dawned on me that it was supplied by the same folks that put a wad of bug-gunk-ridden cotton in the box with my ST mini ... Kanger.

So ... the question is if anyone has taken apart the OCC coils & found little black specks in the cotton, or other foreign "pieces" ?? I'm wondering if the cotton Kanger uses for the OCC coils is the same cotton they give you in the box to wick the RBA deck with.  

I am trying to get the best flavor with the best single coil build.

Objectives:
Flavor Smooth Vapor
Materials:
Kanthal Wire 35mg Nic Salts
I have noticed that either depending on the diameter of the coil or the spacing of the coil wraps You get a different kind of vape hit. It seems like higher gauge wire produces a smoother hit. And then couple that with a small diameter coil build, plus squishing the coil together to remove all coil spacing results in the smoothest possible vapor.

Can anyone confirm my findings? Or does anyone have any tips because I have still to replicate the smooth hit from clearomizer sub tank cartridge's that are non mesh. I am starting to think this is because the cotton is wrapped around the outside of the coil instead of being shoelace through the middle of the coil.  

Hey guys,
Just wanna drop in and say I ordered a Lemo2 to try my hand at rebuilding. It come with a coil and wick at .5ohm already in place. This thing really works awesome... tons of flavor and vapor and can even MtL hit if I dial down the air almost all the way. I do have two hopefully easy questions I'm sure someone knows the answer to...
How high of wattage can you push these or any handmade coil to? Also when you wick a new one, since it doesn't come with much info on it, how do you know if you're putting too much cotton in, and is there a trick to get the cotton right where it needs to be in that little wicking channel from the tank to where the coil is so the juice gets absorbed quickly and properly but without flooding it?
TIA and I know I'm know pro sub-ohmer by any means lol but for someone thinking about one this tank really works awesome.  

I got my first Derringer today. Wanted to try it immediately although I bought it with the DAY AFTER (May 2106) in mind... but you know how it goes, you get a new toy and you want to try it out.

I'm really not into very low ohms so first I went for a single coil - 26 AWG Kanthal, 9 wraps for around 1.3 ohms. But I didn't like the way that could be wicked in an rda. So then I put in two 28 guage coils which I had previously coiled for my other atties. Together they gave me .8 ohms which is sort of ok. But I still am not quite happy with the wicking. These coils are 2mm internal diameter and there's not a lot of cotton you can put in there. The taste is good but my wicking is nowhere as fat as I see in some pics online.

Any advice?