Are they really to be avoided? I want to buy a bulk supply of some faux Kangertech BVCs, but not if it'll be cheaper, in the long run, to buy the real thing.
Do you think it would be possible to build a BVC inside one of the BCC coil casings for my generic clearomizer? I know how to rebuild BCCs, BDCs, and BVCs. I could totally switch them up, right?... as long as I pay attention to ohms 'n stuff? What say y'all?
My local B&M has an iTaste 134 in their display case, but this place is owned by the same people that own the "smoke" shop next door. Back when I used to partake in that other stuff, I was ripped off when they sold me FAKE hardware. It was labeled and branded as the real thing, but after some internet research, I found out it was very blatantly fake.
I'm a bit worried that their Innokin product may suffer from the same thing, since this shop is owned by the same people. Is there anything I could look for while examining it to know for sure if it's authentic? Are the clones actually branded with the iTaste logo? Or if it says, "iTaste" is it real?
Is it even worth taking a chance, since I know the owners have faked me out in the past? (I just don't know if the vaping industry might handle fakes differently with all these clones I keep hearing about.)
(mods feel free to move this if needbe, not sure where it should go)
So, i just spent 800 on a new faux suede sectional. tried for the life of me to avoid it, but the inevetible happened and some hawk sauce dripped on the cushion... if you have ever owned a faux suede couch you know how rediculous getting anything out of it is... nearly impossible. ALAS! i have the solution that i could not find anywhere! the trick: get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. apply a TINY amount, just a bit more than the spilled juice, take a cloth, blot at it for a minute, then get your vacuum, and suck it all up. it will take a couple tries but i got most/all of it out in a few tries. do NOT scrub at it though, just lightly blot at it and vac, and repeat. great results on a mocha colored couch of faux suede (polyester with a small amount of polyurethane)
Two issues I wanted to fix. The first is the battery run time using the low ohm coils. Second is when the e-liquid gets to the top of the sub ohm coil housing in the Kangertech I've noticed a lot of dry hits when heavy vaping, ( I like a higher VG juice. ) I would find myself closing the air intakes and sucking hard to get the wick saturated, ( a real pain in the ***. )
NOTE: I like an airy hit and run the air intake ports full open.
So here's what I did.
I've drilled the wick holes out to 3.5mm in the Kangertech coil housing. Then built a 1.1 ohm coil with 4 strands of 32ga. kanthal, ( twisted together first ), 5 wraps around a 3.47mm screwdriver. The coil was very springy to work with but got a bit stiffer after torching t closed to 1/4" width using adjustable tweezers. I used regular ball cotton for the wick in this experiment. The coil came in at 1.1 ohm.
Primed the wick and filled tank with a little bit of juice, just below the top of the coil housing.
All I can say is WOW. The first 10 hits taste a bit crappy but after the break in, WOW.
Taste and vapor production are great. There's a bit of crackle but no pops. Crackle I don't mind, Pops I mind. The ClouporT8 counted 75 hits and now the e-juice level is just above the wicking ports by a hair and still working great with full open air intake ports.
I will add post after I've used this set up for awhile.
Curious what other think!
VapeOn
Hi
I recently purchased the eleaf istick which I use with the kangertech subtank.
While I am impressed with the vapour production, I find it way too harsh and hot. On the coil it has the recommonded setting printed between 15 - 30w. I'm at 15w, but I'm still finding it too hot and harsh.
My question is:
is it safe to go down all the way to 11w or even possibly 8. I am confused as I've heard this could short my device or cause injury e.g device exploding, fire...
Thanks
Forums are addictive, and this interface is wonderful. I finally get the fuss about social media!
Hankering for conversation and searched the keywords and found a post wondering why X device was cheaper in silver, but that's about it::
How come metal / silver colours are often cheaper than the rest?
Do they cost less to make? Simply less popular (then why are they available often enough)? And if they aren't popular, why? Just the finger-stains thing or is there some socially ratified aesthetic I've failed to acquire= in other words, am I weird fo liking mi mod shiny?
Or maybe even a heretic, or a blasphemer?
I like mini tanks and small batteries. My favorite setups are mini protank version 1 clones with 650mah basic ego style batteries. Stainless steel finish, no funky colors or designs. Single bottom coil on the tanks, no air flow controls. Standard voltage batteries, no twisty things on the bottom, no usb passthrough, no digital displays, just a battery. I like the ego style because the protruding button is easier to find and helps keep them from rolling around. The lack of features I don't need means the batteries are small. I like small, sleek, simple.
I have a nice big fancy Smok vv/vw battery. If I cut my juice in half with VG I can blow some massive clouds without knocking myself out. I found this to be mildly amusing for a short period of time. I also found out that with my regular mix when I dialed around for the "sweet spot" I ended up at 3.7 volts...
The mini tanks don't hold a day's worth of juice, and the 650mah batteries don't last all day. So what? Tank gets low, twist it off and pop another on. Battery light flashes, same thing. I've got a battered old EGO case from my first starter kit, it holds four tanks and batteries and a bottle of juice with room to spare.
I got my first mini pro tank from a vape shop. I just assumed it was a Kanger, but there was no mention of Kangertech anywhere on the packaging or tank. Whatever, I really liked it. I figured the real deal would be even better so I ordered one online. Kanger had discontinued the version 1, so I bought the "new, improved" version 2. It was good, but I liked the clone version 1 better. The clone tanks are polycarbonate rather than pyrex, but I don't vape plastic eating flavors, so that's a non-issue.
Now I'm not knocking all the cloud chasing, coil winding, wick trimming gear heads that seem to dominate these forums, but if there's anybody else out there who enjoys vaping with a nice, simple, inexpensive setup, I'd like to hear from you.
hi, i have been vaping with same setting for 2 years :
Regulated mod, Single coil rda, 2.5 mm alien coil 0.25 ohm, 30-35 watt, 18560 sony batteries.
I have been using the same batteries over and over for 2 years.
And I consider my self an expert when its come to my setting i mean I really know when its wicking issue or burnt coil or wrong coil position, 510 contact, battery contact etc ....
The thing now is that i feel some thing wrong with my vape, i dont feel it hit hard as it was before, it do spitback the ejuice to my mouth, flavor is little bit down.
So what i am asking is :
- could it be the batteries since I abused them?
- Is it possible that my mod show 30watt in the screen and doesn’t manage to deliver that 30 watt to the coil?
- I know as fact that long time used batteries have less capacity so they will charge and discharge fast, but i wonder if they also will be weak and don't hit hard enough in compared with its original states ?
So I ordered an Eleaf Istick 50watt from Vapenw.com and when it came I tried to verify it's authenticity.
It looks legit, the only thing I noticed that's different from most I've seen is the Istick logo on the top next to the connector. I paid 44$ for it so I'm not upset it works like a beast I just wanna make 100% sure that its real just in case I need parts or such.
The code is in a format like so
0000 1111
2222 3333
I can't figure out how to enter the code, I've tried from left to right top to bottom and from top to bottom and left to right.
It does have the torque screws though which most if not all clones lack.
I just burned through my first coil on my KangerTech Evod 2, and I started wondering if there was anyway to extend the life of a coil. Do big hits, or small hits make a considerable difference? Just wondering because ultimately it can either reduce or increase the overall cost of vaping.