Coil Rebuild: Bcc To Bvc

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

I am trying to get the best flavor with the best single coil build.

Objectives:
Flavor Smooth Vapor
Materials:
Kanthal Wire 35mg Nic Salts
I have noticed that either depending on the diameter of the coil or the spacing of the coil wraps You get a different kind of vape hit. It seems like higher gauge wire produces a smoother hit. And then couple that with a small diameter coil build, plus squishing the coil together to remove all coil spacing results in the smoothest possible vapor.

Can anyone confirm my findings? Or does anyone have any tips because I have still to replicate the smooth hit from clearomizer sub tank cartridge's that are non mesh. I am starting to think this is because the cotton is wrapped around the outside of the coil instead of being shoelace through the middle of the coil.  

8/9 wraps of AWG 29 Kanthal on 2mm bit should give you around 1.8 ohms, right? At least that is what it has always given me. This evening I was rebuilding a Nautilus BVC like I have done so many times before. Lo and behold I put the coil on the ohm meter and it's reading 0.18. I look for sticking out bits of wire. None. I throw out the coil and start over with exactly the same build as always. Again I get 0.16 ohms. I test it on all my regulated mods... same result on all of them.

How is this even possible?!  

So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again  

Hello everyone. I am new to the forum but I have read a few more topics before having to create an account and explain my problem in detail. I own a Geekvape Aegis Mini TC 80W (with the Cerberus tank) and I'm using a 50% / 50% e-liquid, with chocolate, coconut and oats from Nebula. I have owned it for about 2 weeks now. I've been using a .3 ohms coil in these weeks, and I've been really good, except for the last 2 days, I've burned the coil slightly and I don't like the taste anymore, so I decided to switch to the other .2 ohms that I've bought a couple of days ago, so I primed the coil by putting 4 drips in each cotton hole + 2 or 3 drips in the center cotton (it's a mesh coil). I forgot to say that I vape mainly from 30-40watts but it's fine even from 25-42W, I'll never go over it because only the noise scares me. Yes, I know, it's weird. Anyway, my problem is that after switching to a .2ohms coil (it's been about 30 minutes) at 30watts the taste is yucky, totally different, I wouldn't say burnt but not good, plus the noise is like it's muffled, yeah , I opened the holes, if I go over 30 watts the noise gets slightly louder but the taste worse. I would just like to know if I have to leave it overnight to let the liquid absorb well or change the coil directly because it is faulty (I have another 5 of .2ohms but no other so I can't go back to .3ohms)
So, is this normal?  

A friend of mine who smoked for 30 years wanted me to help her get set up for something reliable for vapor. She's tried in the past with eGO setups and didn't like it. Leaks, frustration, broken glass tanks, etc.

I rebuild a lot, so what I use isn't ideal for someone totally new to the game.

I suggested an iStick 30 and subtank mini. Seems to be a decent balance of cost, power, and option to rebuild in the future. She doesn't want external batteries, chargers, or any other expensive hassle.

Any of you try to ease someone into vaping recently with all the new higher power hardware out? What worked well, what didn't work well?  

I am once again a happy vaper!!!! Ecstatic to be exact.

Graduation number one:

I have just very successfully rebuilt my first Nautilus BVC coil. Wasn't even as difficult as I thought it would be and didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would. I am now a forever rebuilder! I was a little worried because I didn't have any wire or filler material here, or so I thought. However, as I posted in the wick and coil section I literally tripped over an old hair blow dryer in my bedroom and did some research and discovered that the heating elements in them are nichrome wire.

I tore that sucker apart and uncoiled all the nichrome wire in it and discovered two things. One, there was actually three different gauges of nichrome in this particular hair dryer, all three kind of close in gauge. Second, different strand of gauge came out to about 20 feet or more each, so I ended up with over 60 feet of nichrome free. Below is a pic of the three strands, the strands go from the thickest gauge on the left to the thinnest on the right:


So I had my wire but needed filler. I was gonna use this medical gauze I have here but wasn't sure if it was pure cotton or not as there was nothing on the box that said what it is made of. But then my cute little neighbor knocked on my door and asked to borrow a screw driver. I obliged her and on a hunch, her being female and all, I asked if she used those round cotton pads to remove her makeup. She does and gave me a partial pack of about 50. Wooo Hooo, off the the races....

So I queued up Hawkeye's Aspire BVC Rebuild video on Youtube and got to work. I very carefully took apart the 1.8 ohm head that came with my Nautilus and saw what I believe was the problem with it. See the pic below:



OK, I'm a newb and all.... But that black wick doesn't look right, it looks like it's been burnt. I may be wrong and someone can correct me if so. I only used this once and only got maybe 2 vapes on it before I got the flashing dashes. Plus, while the coil is stretched out here, I did that after disassembling it. I carefully removed the wick from the coil and it was in the two pieces as shown in the epic. They were kind of touching each other inside the wick, but it seems like the wick burnt out and separated or maybe they had broke during manufacturing, or packing, or whatever... At any rate, it does indeed look like a defective coil.

So, I watch Hawkeye's video and build along with him and am very proud to say I believe I rebuilt this coil pretty damn well, you can tell me from the pic:



Is it just me, or is that one sexy looking rebuilt BVC? I used the thinnest gauge nichrome from the pic above and followed Hawkeye's method with the exception of giving my coil three extra wraps. I should have taken a pic of it.... Oh well.

So, with the coil rebuilt I grabbed a beer, put my Nautilus back together with the new rebuild, filled my tank and fired it up. BAZINGA!!!! She fired up at 2.1 ohms!!!! I was aiming for 1.6, but the three extra wraps probably added the extra from what I've read here on amount of ohms to coil wraps and wire gauge. I've now been happily vaping away for the past two and a half hours and the ohms are sticking between 2.0 and 1.9 with the odd jump to 1.7.

I gotta say here too, this is even better than the original Nautilus BVC. Now I understand why people rave about cotton and DIY rebuilds and such. I'm getting a lot more flavor, a much better throat and lung hit, and an awesome natural draw, and I'm not getting that sizzling/gurgling noise I was getting with the stock heads. Which leads me to my second graduation.....

I have broken the Tootle Puffer barrier and am now vaping at 28 watts. Hey, I don't mind Tootle Puffing, but I do like the bigger hit I get with the higher wattage. Been hitting this thing pretty hard though LOL. I never broke down and went back to the stinkys while my unit was down, and a big part of that was because I actually missed my vaping more than the stinkys.... I think a small part was also because I got so preoccupied with solving the issue with my hardware I didn't have time to think about stinkys.

Again, I want to thank everyone who helped out in my original thread about the problem. I love this place man!!!! I'm now a lifer both here and to vaping. Now I can't wait to get more equipment and also start doing DIY juices.  

Are they really to be avoided? I want to buy a bulk supply of some faux Kangertech BVCs, but not if it'll be cheaper, in the long run, to buy the real thing.  

Just finished up my first build using 24 Guage kanthal with 9 wraps. It's a dual coil build that came out to .49 ohms. It's not the best looking build but for my first attempt I guess it's not too shabby. It was built on my mutation x v4. 40-45w was about as high as I could go before it got too hot for my liking. just wanted to share it.  

Hello guys,
I recently purchased a single coil RTA, my first rebuildable experience. I love it!! .
I saw at the shop a double coil RTA and a Double coil RDA, was planning on buying one of them until I thought I only have a 100W mod. Do you guys think it is enough? Are there some specific ohms coils that could make it work etc? Or is a 100W enough? I am new to this so calculating ohms law and all the other stuff I will learn, I just need a answer from the double coilers if you guys use higher wattage mods or not.
Thank you in advance!