I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.
I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"
Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.
Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?
Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.
Help! :/
I have had a lot of mis fires on my Smokless Owl 25.00 squonker and had to press down extra hard
and sometimes side ways to get it to fire.
I just done some contact cleaning and scraping on the Smokless Owl Button.
I took my wifes Emory board finger nail file thingy and depressed the firing button and held it depressed and rubbed it
across the firing pin and then took a small jewlers screwdriver and scratched it back and forth across the end of the pin and
did the same thing to botton ground pin.
I noticed some black color on the end of the firing pin before I started this cleaning process.
I gently took the screw driver and scratched back and forth across the positive and negative end of the battery just to
take any small film or oxidation from the ends just to make a better connection.
It seems to fire now just like it should with no MISFIRES---mod is now perfect !
MyVaporJuice.com. Massive e-liquid menu, including dozens of NET Flavors. Bailed out of the Vaping Industry as soon as Deeming became a reality.
ProVape.com. Dominant equipment supplier just a few years ago. Provided high quality, durable and safe Variable Voltage mods and service.
Highbrow Vapor. It has been stated that Bryan would extract his own flavorings, such as when strawberries were in season in California. Unbelievably pure fruit flavors. Making and distributing in North America and in Europe. Now Highbrow is closing their doors.
Reos Mods. Going out of business. The Original bottom feed mod, with a cult-like following and outstanding customer service. Once called "Reoville", now a new Grand can be bought for around $80.
Mrs. T's ? Copper Creek ? Backwoods Brew ? Who have I forgotten ?
I have a snowwolf mini by sigelei kit and the mod has gone Haywire one day after the retailer warranty ended. My question is which warranty service should I contact? Sigelei is the parent company. Snowwolf is the branding that they're using I guess for this kit. Both sites have their own warranty contact information and I'm not sure which one to contact the little warranty card mentions nothing about the snowwolf but on the sigelei site the authenticity check does not work only on the snowwolf site so I don't really know which one to go through. If anyone's had any experience with this that would be great. I've heard mixed reviews but I would like to at least attempt to warranty this product seeing as how I've only owned two sigeleis and both of them went bad with in 31 days. It's worth a try anyway
My Smok Nord broke last night. I googled the problem and got an endless number of hits from people that have had the same problem. Lots of Youtube videos explaining how to fix the problem. Apparently, it has something to do with the three metal prongs attached to the battery getting pushed in and no longer making contact with the pod. Some guy tore the thing apart to show how cheaply made the springs are that are underneath the little metal prongs.
I spent 40 dollars at a vape shop for my Nord for an electronic device that was made on the cheap for a few pennies. The Nord has been around for awhile, as has this problem with the prongs. Does Nord know about it? Of course they do. Have they fixed the problem with better parts or a redesign? Of course not. What do you think, they are a legit company like Apple or Samsung? They don't care about ripping people off. Some Chinese "engineer" probably sketched out the idea for the Nord while on the toilet. Then he figured out what parts would be needed to put it together as cheaply as possible. The factory probably started producing them the same day and them sold them to marks like me who want to quit smoking.
If I bought something defective at Walmart or Target and brought in the product with the receipt, I would get my money back. How about in the vape world? Not a chance. You've got to deal with the company yourself and they will jerk you around until you give up and forget it. If you are very lucky, they will send you a replacement device after the vape store owner asks the company to do them a favor. Three months and tons of phone calls later, you might get a replacement device. But most people either give up or don't try to begin with. There's always plenty of new marks trying to quit smoking.
The guys at the vape shop told me how great this device is. They must be aware of the garbage they are hawking to people. Or maybe they don't know. People who work at vape shops are not the brightest people. And it's not just the Nord. It's every gd vape I've ever bought. One vape blew up while charging and burned a hole in my carpet which cost me 500 dollars to repair. I wrote about it on here and no one on here believed me and said I was trolling until I showed photos of the blown up device and my charred carpet. I heard, oh yeah, you shouldn't have charged it through a laptop. How the hell was I supposed to know that and why wasn't a safety feature installed to turn it off? Because that would have been too expensive to put in.
Let me ask you this. Why are all the instruction booklets that come up with the vape devices written in bizarre broken English, obviously written by a Chinese person? Because they were too cheap to hire a translator, they didn't think of it or they thought their English was better than it was. If you purchased an Apple laptop and the instructions were written in broken English, it would be incomprehensible. But not in the vape world! That's just normal. The reason they didn't get someone to check most likely is because they thought their English was good enough. That sums up vape devices: good enough. Those Chinese ......s could have found a native English speaker on the street and offered to buy him lunch if he agreed to spend 10 minutes proofreading their bad English.
If vape shop workers had any shame, they would quit, and if the owners had any shame, they would shut down their shops. They are all complicit in this and so are most of you.
OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.
I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.
I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.
I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.
Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.
Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.
Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.
What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.
This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.
The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.
Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.
Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!
I have been having an issue where when I screw in any kind of tank, my vamo 4 reads "SHORT" and "LOW LOAD." I have made really nice coils to no avail. Someone at a store told me to just turn up the voltage - worked for a bit but then didn't.
Someone on here, when I posted about it, said to get something to wiggle the pin out a mm or two because it has been "crushed" with the insulator. Did that. Worked for a bit, back to SHORT and LOW LOAD.
SO, I need to buy a new one. I have a few different pv's, but this is a favorite because of its variable voltage. Is there a place (online) where I can buy just the piece I need? Attached is a pic of the faulty hardware...
Alright, it's been a while since I've been on ECF, so I figured since I've got a reason to post - I will. My 150w box mod shorted out my batteries, and the firing button and + button broke so now they're loose and disconnected. I figured since the warranty is still valid I'd exchange it or get my money back. But note I will NOT order from fasttech or anything that'll have me waiting a month for my purchase to get here. My budget is $70/usd, so I know my options are a bit slim. But here's my average vape set up: usually under 50 watts, but I'd prefer at least 60 watts+ on my device (I'd be willing to go with a 30 watt, but it'd have to be amazing for me to consider it). Coils on my RDA were usually under 1.0ohm (.2ohms-.8ohms) I HATE built in batteries so something I could use my 18650's in would be ideal (preferably dual 18650 but I'm willing to compromise), mechanical box mods sketch me out so I'd rather not get one of those. I don't care about the brand, as long as it's reliable, fits my budget and most of my preferences. Now that you have a base, lay it on me. What do you think would be a good new mod for me? I'm willing to compromise, but not by much. Thanks guys, I appreciate any suggestions.
I have bought four RDAs from VaporDNA, all Project Subohm. First was the CLT V3 Infinite.
It read at a 0.09ohms on my reader unbuilt. So I emailed them, and they sent a replacement. In the mean time, I managed to fix the first one. The second one also read at a 0.09ohms on my reader, but I managed to fix that one, too. (BTW, by "fixed", I mean "got to read at a 1 on my ohm reader unbuilt). Bolstered by my experience being easily able to fix the CLT, I ordered a Swirlfish. Same issue, but this time, I couldn't fix it.
Got a replacement, same issue, only, again, couldn't fix it.
Figured "third times the charm", though, and got a Mutation V3. It read at a 1 on my ohm reader. Made me so frickin' happy, I got a third Swirlfish... which failed again and I couldn't fix it.
However, the new Mutation V4 came out, and since the V3 came perfect I went ahead and bought it...
Well, it's reading at a 0.08ohms unbuilt, and I can't fix it. I don't even want to email them for a replacement, because I'm fully expecting it to be the same, and I'm really sick of this same thing over and over again. VaporDNA's customer service is wonderful and the response time is almost lightning fast, but a) this is product after product, b) you can't tell me they aren't getting sick of hearing from me, and c) if I'm the only one they keep hearing about this from, there's no way it isn't starting to look suspicious.
But there is simply no way I'm the only one experiencing this. It's not my ohm reader, which has fresh batteries and reads all un-shorted, built RDAs accurately. And yet I still got a Smok Omnitester which is on its way, just in case.
So what in the hell is going on, here? I may get a regular, non-Project Subohm Mutation V4 from somewhere else and just get my money back on this one or something, but I'm really at the end of my patience with this. It's ridiculous.
If you get Project Subohm RDAs, please check them on your ohm readers. Somebody... please somebody... say I'm not alone in experiencing this.
Please.
Does anyone have any good or bad experience with this seller? Apparently they "partner" with other sellers to sell products. They are located in the state of Washington. Their site has a blog, guides, and a club. Here's what they say about themselves.
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Well , I aint even gonna say much this thing is better than any mech mod out there . You guys told me to start building higher ohm coils and i did , I build a 2.3 ohm coil . My 2*18650 box mod performed like .... with it , I had to hold the button for 2 - 4 secconds before draw and i still got minimal vapor . So i got the istick 50w , i set it to just half of its full potention , 25W and it is firing up the 2.3 ohm coil as soon as I press the button and I am getting extreme vapor production . Also size i knew it will be small , but i can not believe how small it actually is , absolutely amazing , build quality is also amazing . I should have moved from mech mods to VW a long time ago .