Test Your Safety Knowledge!

the little cig bats just dont last long and at the time i started was really weak but that what made me look

for an up grade and thats how i found this place and learned every thing from reading videos and what not

and im using the orchid v3 great tank and the nemesis clones and dont touch my other stuff. every ones

different and sense you have batteries now that have VV/ vw and that cost about the same as a blue start up kit
Electronic Cigarette Kits | E Cigarette Kit | Rechargeable Kits well really its alot cheaper. and a tank that has

adjustable air flow now days for 6 bucks. why would you suggest a njoy or blue ecig. thats why 90 % of us are

here because we waisted money on them and needed something stronger. with the adjustabilty of some of

these cheap but great batteries/mods and airflow tanks i cant in good faith point some one to a item that

just didnt do the trick

that is a waist of cash. pointing some one to a mod that has adjustments makes alot more sense and

increases there chances of quiting and staying quit and spend less money. some of us where not that lucky

but we started when vaping was a baby its growing fast and like computers theres a upgrade every day. so i

do not see the point it pushing some one to a blu or some random stuff like that when there are alot off really

good options out there with adjustments so the user can suite there needs. save you money in the long run.

wish you guys would think about that a little bit

it took us years to learn what we know now why make a new guy go through what we had no choice to go through

why not suggest something with adjustable airflow like the
$9.58 Authentic KangerTech GeniTank Bottom Dual Coil BDC Clearomizer - 2.4ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

or

$21.96 Authentic Aspire Nautilus Mini BVC Clearomizer - 2.0ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

its a great tank and super cheap adjustable air flow and easy to replace parts

and batteries like the

$25.96 Authentic Innokin iTaste VV V3.0 VV / VW 800mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Variable Voltage: voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 – 5.0 volts in .1 volt increments Variable Wattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments Ohms meter: Resistive Load Detection Puff Counter: The puff counter will record how many puffs you have taken. The records will be cleared when the device is turned off Short Circuit/Atomizer Protection: Helps protect the iTaste VV against faulty atomizers Over-Discharge Protection: The iTaste VV monitors the battery voltage and will automatically turn off when the battery is discharged LED Battery Indicator: The iTaste VV battery utilizes an advanced capacity display via green, yellow and red LED lights. Users will know the battery’s capacity via the color of the LED Button The LED lights will show green, yellow or red to indicate full battery life, half capacity or charging needed Superior Battery Life: The iTaste VV e-cigarette features a built-in 800 mAh polymer Li-Ion rechargeable battery 510 Threaded: The iTaste VV is threaded to accept 510 accessories, including the iClear10,iClear16 and iClear30 clearomizers ON/OFF Battery Switch: Quickly clicking three times will power the device on or off. Once the device is on, holding down the button will activate the battery. This safety feature prevents the atomizer from turning on while it's in your pocket or bag, as well as inadvertent settings changes 10-Second Cutoff: If the button is held down for 10 seconds or longer, the iTaste VV will shut itself off until the button is released Passthrough: The iTaste VV is charged through a Micro USB Port. You can recharge it with any standard MicroUSB cable. It can also work as a pass-through device for simultaneous vaping and charging Settings Retention: The device remembers the last voltage or wattage used when switching batteries Display Information: The bright display shows resistance (ohms), voltage, wattage, atomizer voltage output, puff count, and last-used settings
or

$25.36 Authentic Innokin iTaste CLK 1280 VV 1280mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable / brass + stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Variable voltage: The rotational wheel adjusts voltage in the increamens (3.5V, 3.8V, 4.0V, 4.3V, 4.5V, 4.8V, 5.0V) To set your desired voltage turn the rotational wheel to the left or right until you hear an audible click Press quickly 5 times to turn ON/OFF The battery capacity is displayed via green, yellow and red LED lights Green = fully charged Yellow = half charged Red = low power (please charge) 10s cut off protection Short circuit/atomizer protection Over-discharge protection Low voltage warning (lower than 3.3V, red LED blinking for eight seconds and then automatically power off) Compatible with eGo/510 connection With micro-USB charging port Standby current: 50uA max Maximum output current: 3.5A Maximum output wattage: 15W Clearomizer resistance: 1.2ohm (minimum), recommendation 2.5ohm Short circuit protection: 0.6 +/- 0.2ohm something in that sense that can run a dual coil tank like the kangertech at 1.2-2.4 ohms easy

vs something like a spinner that was really made for single coils at the time

and pointing them to new items that havent had the test of time like some of these mods do. seems like people are using them like ginne pigs to see how it works. thats not right

should be pointing them to items that have proven there selfs so they dont have to go through what we had to when we started.  

So I just got my Geekvape Zeus. When I try to use it I get a "short circuit" error. Does anyone know what this means or how to fix it? I tried screwing it in tighter and looser and nothing works.  

Here are Two pics of a hybrid mod top cap I recently bought. As you can see, the positive tab on the battery is directly connected to your 510 pin or whatever it comes in contact with at the bottom of your atty.
Here is a pic of the 510 pin on the bottom of the Atlantis:
The pin simply pushes into a grommet and floats there. If the pin comes in contact with the side of the atty it will short the circuit and if left there will short the battery. Notice how close the pin is to the sides of the atty. If that grommet gets deformed in any way, that pin can touch those sidewalls and short the circuit. After screwing and unscrewing the atty on and off mods, that pin and grommet can move out of its centered position. On a hybrid mod if this atty is over tightened directly onto the positive tab of the battery, the pin can MASH down onto it, deform the grommet and touch the sidewall causing a short. Someone not aware of this with little experience has a ticking time bomb in their hands. Be safe out there.  

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Ok I'm hoping I don't get heat for these questions/statements but educating ones self especially with something that is still very new is important to me.

1. Read some articles on how there is second hand vape similar to cigarettes (99% better mind you) what are your thoughts? Vaping may not be as safe as smokers think, research suggests | Society | The Guardian

2. Formaldehyde found in builds running at high watts/voltage? But 0% at low/normal builds, what i can't seem to find is whats considered to high for a Mechanical Mod or even for a V/W, V/V Setup? My normal build for a mech mod is twisted single coil 24 gauge 6-7 wraps, usually gets about 0.28 ohms and single coil 8 wraps of 24 gauge puts out 0.73 ohms on my flavor builds.
Before You Vape: High levels of Formaldehyde Hidden in E-Cigs - NBC News  

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

I've seen many threads where people are just getting into vaping and it seems now that it's growing popular at an extremely fast rate. Vaping as opposed to smoking has always been a great alternative, but now that more satisfying equipment is readily available and popular, it would be great to have an ongoing guide for someone brand new. If you're just getting into vaping now you're going to be hit with a million different devices, a trillion different atomizers, and an infinite amount of ways to rebuild. All of this information can seem very intimidating and overwhelming, but having communities like ECF to get advice are very helpful.

I remember when I first started learning about how devices work and how sending current through a coil with different resistances at different voltages can yield different results, and then add in different ways to get to that same resistance, the possibilities go on and on. It's not easy to someone brand new, but with proper information it is easy. If we all had a single ongoing information source referring to device capabilities and ohms law available to members and the public a lot of questions would be answered everyday and thoroughly.

I say ongoing because vaporizer equipment is expanding so fast. The amount of gear and vape related things are moving so fast. I remember seeing a good amount of youtube videos with Phil Busardo visiting vaporizer headquarters and manufacturing stations across seas and here. We also see a lot of expanding on the site. I have only been a member since 2013, but the amount of stuff coming out today is much more than before. There is also a lot of traction on this forum, but that's what makes it good.

I've read a lot of good information on the forum before and some of the posts are really spot on, I feel it should be compiled to one source. I've seen Baditude and Susan~s both have readily available links for solid information multiple times. It would be great to access all the detailed information from all the great posts I see on threads all in one place, like a ongoing source with everything like: battery safety, hybrid top cap mechanical, cleaning a mechanical, coils, example chips in regulated devices and how they work, liquid and the ingredients, the effects vs cigarettes, the proactive community and the apposed laws. For someone brand new they see so many new things at once. It wouldn't have to be a day to day updated guide, just a compiled, easy to understand with examples, information source about vaping up to now. I've seen a lot of good posts and wish I could quickly pull up the same posts without searching. I think we deserve some sort of guide, vaping isn't an underground type of thing.

Ohm's law

With all that I want to present a small guide I prepared as a response to a few questions I see on the forum.

I feel the most common question is about Ohm's law and about understanding resistances for devices. Ohm's law is the most important piece of information pertaining to vaping since it's what we use all the time. There are four variables to know in the equations, but an easy way to help understand it is with the Steam engine online tool. In the online calculator you see resistance, voltage, current, power. The units are ohms, volts, amps, and watts respectively. An even easier way to understand it is thinking about it in an example.

The water pipe analogy
Think of the resistance like a pipe and you have water flowing out of the pipe and the water is amperage. There is also a valve on the pipe that you can turn to make the water(amperage) come out faster and that valve acts like a voltage control. The end result of the water flowing out the pipe is expressed by power, also known as wattage. You can increase the wattage by either decreasing the resistance or increasing the voltage.

Let's say you have a pipe set up with a certain width and water is flowing at a constant rate. Lets also say the pipe has a resistance of 1ohm and our valve to control the speed is set to 4volts. You can use Ohm's law and see that amount of water coming out is 4amps and the pipe's power is measured to 16watts. Now if you widen the same pipe more water(amps) can flow through it and you didn't touch the voltage valve. Adjust the pipe's resistance to 0.5ohms and as a result we see we just doubled the amount of water to 8amps and doubled the power to 32watts with a constant voltage.

Take the same pipe you started with, 1ohm, and instead of making it wider you just turn the valve and double the pressure or speed from 4volts to 8volts. You see 8amps of water flowing through the pipe and the power by the pipe went up to 64watts by adjusting the voltage only. Now put the two examples together and lower the resistance to .5ohms and increase the voltage to 8volts, you see even more power at 128watts and 16amps.

This can be applied to our coils and devices. Mechanical mods work like the first example in which we just made the pipe wider because that's the only thing you can adjust on a mechanical. You have a fixed battery voltage, and can only change the resistance. The second example is more like a variable voltage/wattage mod where you can keep the pipe the same resistance and just turn the voltage valve.

Understanding how these variables work will give you a better understanding of ohms law and how to build for specific devices.


Ohm's law and a regulated PV

Lets talk about personal vaporizers, or mods, a little more. Each device has: a resistance range it can read, an amperage limit it can push, a voltage range it can fire, and a wattage range it can fire. When you look at a device you want to know all of these things because it will determine what resistances will work the best on top. Some devices work well with a wide range, some work very well within a small area within that range. Lets look at an example.



Here is the DNA40(kanthal) and it's specs given by Steam Engine. I don't own one so I don't know the actual performance, but I want to use the numbers as an example. You can see the max voltage, max wattage, resistance range, and amp limit on the left. On the right there is three boxes, these three boxes is where all the information comes together.

Current limit 16 A vs 40 W
The box labeled “Current limit 16 A vs 40 W” measures the lowest possible resistance you can use to get all 40watts. When you decrease your resistance you are able to push more amps through your coil with available voltage and get more wattage. This is done by using ohms law calculator and plugging in the max amp limit along with the max wattage it can fire. You can see that the lowest possible resistance to get all 40watts while using all the amps is a bit lower than what the device can read. This means the DNA40 devices can fire it's lowest reading while still getting 40watts and it's starting to bump the amp limit. Not the best place to be, but it works as advertised.

Voltage limit 9 V vs 40 W
The next box “Voltage limit 9 V vs 40 W” measures the highest possible resistance you can use to get all 40watts. When you increase your resistance you are able to use more voltage to get to higher wattage without using as many amps. This is done by plugging in the max voltage for the device and its max wattage it can fire. You can see that highest possible resistance to get all 40watts while using all the voltage is a bit higher than what the device can read. Now you're starting to hit the voltage limit, but it's still firing 40watts.

Optimal resistance
The last box “Optimal resistance” sums it all up by giving you the resistance range along with it's median resistance. Then it gives you a “sweet spot”. This is the median from the original median and the high limit. Basically it's telling you that if you want all 40 watts and you want to keep your battery life in good shape to use a resistance around the “sweet spot”. You don't have to use the sweet spot, but keep in mind the less amps you pull, the more battery life you get while taking advantage of the device's voltage.


These numbers are unique for each device that uses a different chip. If you start looking at the higher powered devices like the Sigelei 150W you'll see that you can only get all 150 if you build within a certain range that it can fire. Too high of a resistance and you'll use all the voltage before you start taking advantage of it's available amperage by lowering the resistance. This doesn't mean the device doesn't live true it it's specs because the it can fire all 150, but there is limitations. In order to to fire all 150w within it's 0.1-3.0ohm range the power source would have to give 20+ volts which is impossible for safe portable devices we have now.




Ohm's law and a mechanical PV

Check out how mechanical devices work, you only use the specs from the battery along with your resistance.




Take the Sony VTC4 for example. I used a resistance of 0.5ohms and a voltage of 4.1volts charged on this page. The page tells you how many amps you are pushing along with the wattage output. The amp limit is advertised to be 30amps, but the box under shows the “headroom” or I like to call it the buffer. In this example you only use 8.2amps, this is safe for the battery. You really shouldn't use all the battery's amperage on an unregulated mechanical, it's not very safe. A lot of people agree on only using about 75% of the batteries amp limit, leaving a 25% headroom to be considered safe. This works out to be about 22amps used and around 0.18-0.19ohms. You should only do this if you are aware of the risks.

Finding your resistance

Now that you looked at the devices, look at choosing a coil for your device. This should be easy now because you just saw what will work well on your device. Take your resistance you feel you would be comfortable with and go to the coil calculator.



I used a 0.5ohm resistance, selected the kanthal of choice, selected dual coils, and picked the coil's internal diameter. I also calculated the wattage with 0.5ohms and 4.1volts I want to use to get around 33 watts to plug into the heat flux(under results) to get an estimate of the vape temperature.


You want to pay attention to number of wraps, the coil width, and surface area. This will give you an idea of how big your potential coil is. What you can do from here is change the diameter, you’ll notice the surface area stays the same, but the width will change because the number of wraps change. You can also change the resistance and use a fixed diameter to change width and surface area. Try selecting different gauges too.


This is my first shot a making a simple guide. Please let me know what you think and feel free to comment. I wanted this to be as simple as possible and the Steam Engine is extremely helpful in doing so. I really think it would be a great idea to have the most popular questions to vaping with answers available to anyone new. I'm not saying people are not getting the right information, because they are and the time people take to make posts explaining things are greatly appreciated. I still think having a detailed, but easy to follow guide with examples would answer most of the questions. I've seen other great guides on the forum, but the technology moves so fast and having one ongoing source explaining everything would be awesome. There is so many things to learn besides battery safety and Ohm's law and all the information is here, but only for those who take the time to ask for it.


Thanks to Lars Simonsen who made Steam engine calculator. Also thank you to ECF member Dice57 for helping me with figuring out how most of this works.


A few links I visit:

Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
E-Cigarette Forum - Baditude - Blogs
E-Cigarette Forum - State O' Flux - Blogs
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ecf-library/661383-basic-coil-building-safety-beginners.html
The ECF Library (this strongly represents the type of guide I'm talking about)
I would really like commentary on the idea of a single comprehensive vaping guide. I think the members here could easily do it, let me know what you think.  

Hey Guys,

I have been wanting to use a mech mod for quite some time now. But I didn’t want to rush into things, given that they can be dangerous if not used properly.

To prepare I have studied ohm’s law and have a pretty decent grasp on it. And have a calculator app on my phone.

I have checked out Mooch’s battery recommendations and have a good idea of what batteries to use and which to avoid.

I still do have a few questions I was hoping an experienced Mech user could help me answer:

- What would be the “sweet spot” as far as resistance and safety go for a dual coil set up? Obviously I want to go as low as possible and have a hard hitting vape. But I also want to be safe. I plan to use a dual 18650 Parallel mod (The Clutch X18). I would be most likely be using Sony Murata batteries as I cant find any Samsungs where i live. I’m thinking somewhere around 0.17-0.2? Or would it be safe to go lower than that? I will of course test my build on an ohm reader and regulated mod before throwing it on the mech to be safe.

- Are there any other general safety tips? Ive heard that you want to screw the Atty down all the way first, before inserting the batteries. And then insert the batteries. And when removing the batteries i heard you want to slightly unscrew the atty first, and then carefully remove the batteries? Can anyone please confirm if this is correct.

- Is its safe to chain vape on a dual 18650 parallel mod? When I say chain vape I mean like maybe taking 5-6 big hits back to back. Then waiting 3-5 minutes, dripping some juice and then doing another 5-6 hits.

- Is there anything I should be monitoring while I’m vaping? Like the heat of the batteries? From what I’ve read, the batteries drain quite fast on a mech. And after some experience you will just kind of know when they need charging because the vape experience changes. Is there anything I’m missing? Or something i should be looking out for?

- I can only vape in my kitchen. And sometimes there might be a little bit of water on the counter from someone’s drink sweating, or drops after someone washed their hands etc. Is this a risk? I will of course do my best to keep all surfaces dry. I’m not talking about large amounts of water or submerging or getting the mod really wet. But just what one might find on a kitchen counter.

- Any other tips you could throw my way would be great!

Thanks in advance!  

So with unrestricted mechanical mods, how does one know how many watts, volts, and amps being applied through ohms law? Is it solely the voltage charge of the battery installed that will determine everything else because of how ohms law works?  

So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.

I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?