Any Sugestions Please

So I've been looking through different posts and I'm still confused about the difference between watts and volts. I'm looking at buying a vv4 and I figured it would be a good idea to understand what exactly I'm buying before spending the money on it. While I was looking through the forums, I saw words like sub-ohms and ohms being thrown around so IF someone wants to explain that I would be eternally grateful otherwise that's the next lesson I'm planning to learn.  

Little confused here...so I've got this piece of equipment with the up and down arrows locked at say 4.8 Volts. I notice that sometimes even with the button locked Ill pull it out of my pocket and see that the volts have changed to 4.7 or even 4.6.


So naturally I try and change it back to 4.8 and it reads "locked"

How is this changing with the lock feature enabled?  

I find keeping the voltage at 4.2 to 5 max will give me the perfect vape.It works out too using ohms law.For ex:,if i wrap a coil at 1.5 ohm,i set the watts at 12/13 and it works out too 4.2.

If i do .20 wrap i can ''bump'' up the watts to 50 and it will still be about 5 volts with no burnt taste.

Ya cant break ohms law.  

So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again  

My first .5 OCC coil only lasted 3 days . I put my device up to 25 watts and it totally fried it. A terrible burnt hit. I backed it back down to 20 watts and it was fine for a little while, but then another bad burnt hit. Down to 15 watts and I literally sucked hot particles in my mouth when taking a hit. ...? The cotton and/or coils are literally breaking apart? That's totally gross and I can only imagine, not that safe.

My second .5 OCC, I never put my device above 17 watts, keeping it at 15 watts for the most part. Within 4 days, same thing ... total burnt hit one day, sucking up hot particles the next?

What's going on? I thought I was supposed to be able to hit a .5 coil up to 30 watts ... Is sucking up hot particles from the coil normal? Should I just keep it at 12 to 15 watts and that's it, taking 1 to 2 second drags and that's it? Is it just a string of bad coils?

Thanks

EDIT: Thought I should mention that the juice I used for both coils was 50/50 watermelon. I hear it's better to use higher VG liquids with sub ohm tanks. But can that be part of the reason why the coils are being fried so quickly?  

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Hello,

I've set my Smok xPro M65 with my Kayfun V4 on 15 watts at 0.8 ohm. However, the volts are changing frequently on vaping. Ohm and Watts stay the same just sometimes on vape the volts display 3.4v, the next time its showing 3.6v and changing etc ... its weird because ohm and watts are the same .. just volts change .. what may cause this ?

Kind Regards.  

so i got this used iclear 30s from a friend for like 5 bucks he didnt want it anymore, and i filled it up and let it sit to soak the coils and now that i tarted using it, its barely giving any vapor, takes like 3 seconds to even heat up, and heres the weird part, i am vaping it at 20 watts with no burnt taste ... im not very knowledgable about tanks but im pretty sure at 20 watts that .... should be burning the hell out of my throat? How come it takes so long to heat up, gives no vapor, and im able to vape a t 20 watts??? is their any way to do something to fix it without buying a new coil?  

I posted this in another user's smok m80 thread. I hope it's ok to post here too. I'm really concerned, and would like to know if this has happened to anyone else. Here is the post unaltered:

I loved the device at first, but now I am scared to use it. I had an Atlantis 2 on it, and at first, it consistently read the ohms as .39. Then it started jumping all over the place from puff to puff. It went anywhere from .39 to 1.2, always different with each puff. At one point, it even changed the watts on its own (it kept dropping them down from around 30 to around 25; it did stop doing this). So I put my kanger Subtank nano on it, at 24 watts. It read anywhere from .55 to 1.5. Then, on the last puff before I shut the device off, it read 2.62 and burned my throat really bad at 24 watts. Since it reads different with each puff, and I don't get the new reading until after I've hit the button, I cannot check what it will be before I've inhaled. I've been vaping for years, and never felt anything like this. My chest hurts, and my throat feels very sore. Contacting the vendor now, but I don't know that I would even want to use one ever again. This was scary for me. The device had the updated chip, and was not even used for more than a half a charge. (The two tanks are fine on my other mods.)

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So with unrestricted mechanical mods, how does one know how many watts, volts, and amps being applied through ohms law? Is it solely the voltage charge of the battery installed that will determine everything else because of how ohms law works?