I have a Tank Crossing box mod and when i purchased it the guy in the vape shop said i had to put grease between the connector and the firing button or it could get to hot and fry the switch. He wasnt very specific on what kind of grease, he just said its in a tube at o reillys. All they had in a tube was break grease and my gut tells me thats not a very good idea. Any suggestions or reccomendations for what to actually purchase?
I purchased my smok vct a1 at a local vape shop and was told the coils cannot be rebuilt another vape shop had the do it yourself kits for this specific sub ohm tank, the factory coil is a single, but the diy is a dual that tests at .41 my itaste mvp3 loves the diy, the flavor is amazing and so is the cloud, to the smoketek fans out there i highly recomend trying the diy, after watching the build video on youtube
So I've been vaping 4.5 years now. Really still a low watt tootle puffer. I probably vape 6ml or so a day now and that has been as high as maybe 10 ml a day. For about my first 3 years I vaped 50/50, for the past 1.5 years mostly 70/30. Not one cig and yes, all bad physical signs from ciggies have appeared gone for ages now. All my juice has come from very well known suppliers.
I could/should? have taken a couple pics but I think I can describe the situation adequately.
I drive a 5 door Ponitac Vibe. I got it in Jan before I started vaping in April of 2015. So yes, I did smoke in this car for about 2.5 months. Still, I've Vaped in it Daily for at least 20 min a day for 4.5 years now.
Yes, I AM probably a pig but I still haven't felt the need to clean the inside of my car windows until recently. On the drivers inside window I've noticed a clear, flaky film on my window, bad enough that it's started to actually flake off. Interesting. One important note, I had the full inside tinted the month I bought the car so the windows were essentially sterile when I started vaping inside the car.
I critiqued things carefully. The film was by far the worst on my window. Next came the window Behind me. Next came the front passenger window with the cleanest being the passengers rear window. This makes perfect sense as the car HVAC is 100% aimed at me. There Really Is Nothing Else the flaky film can be but vape residue. Arguably very similar to what has actually been going into my lungs. Again, medically, I have no known respitory issues.
My tint peeps said clean with just warm water with a few drops of Dawn dish detergent. You'll recall that Dawn is what they use to get crude oil off of birds caught in oil spills, how be it much stronger amounts of Dawn than I'm using. So I got some micro fiber and *important* water As Hot As I Could Stand, Easily 130-140F and a dribble of Dawn in about a 1/2 gal container. This again was the reco from the tint folks to not damage the tint when cleaning it.
Now comes the scary part.
VERY Hot Water, light Dawn and Heavy elbow grease with the micro fiber were Barely Able to remove the vape residue. These were WAY WORSE conditions than I EVER want inside my lungs (to clean). Honestly, it took Three Heavy go arounds to get probably 95% of the residue off. Even Worse was honestly, I don't think the Very Hot water and Dawn were effective At All against the film. (??!!) Most of the film came off from elbow grease After the window was dry from any cleaning juice. Pg and Vg are Supposed to be water soluble and Water Soluble IS what you want near your lungs. My personal experience here Does Not bear out the Totally Water Soluble point, at least not to me anyway.
This is pretty damn scary if you ask me. I enjoy vaping but this will have me switching to 3mg juice Soon in preparation for quitting. As I said, I've already been decreasing my vape amounts before this.
I am not a Dr or a Chemist but I am fairly certain of this.
What I was almost not able to remove from glass was definitely vape residue.
It is logical to assume the same deposits that were on that glass are inside my lungs. BOTH have been exposed to vaping the same amount of time.
Honestly, to me, thus means a Much Higher Chance of some serious respitory issues from long term vaping.
Bruce in Ocala, Fl
Has anyone else had their iclears breaking? Mine break less than a week after buying them. The first thing to go is the tip which swells and gets soft at the bottom where is seals with the white rubber cap. After that the plastic tube breaks where it is attached to the metal. I just placed some epoxy around the joint where it breaks apart. I have just tried a solution but would like to hear others experiences with these. Has anyone else had them break so soon?
I keep most of my crazy experimental findings to myself as a lot of vapers I'm sure hate too much 'do it yourselfing' advice ... but this one created such amazing results , I thought some wacky home professors would also like to try it .... the picture is showing two things : The dollar stores and Walgreens (I'm sure many stores have these cheap ball point pens too ) have a pen with a rubber black finger grip tube that slides right off. The other piece is just an automotive socket .
When the socket is slipped onto the rubber tube, the eight sided depressions for nut gripping do not seal the air off and let air through .... in other words if you block the rubber tube with your finger you will still be getting easy draw from air rushing into the socket depressions even though it looks like the socket is sealed tightly onto the tube ... slide this whole thing right onto your current metal tip of any clearomizer tank and you can even leave a space to create the old filter depression that analogs like Parlement cigs used to have.
Cloud increase, even more 'roundness' to the flavor, and weirdly, the metal in the socket is cooler due to all of its mass and seems to react with the warmer cloud coming through ... call me crazy but it's fun to try and the difference should be as noticable to others as it is to me .
Greetings,
maybe I was bored. Maybe to much doom and gloom on all the bans of new gear and the shipping of it. I started to think - why not have some fun with some of the stuff I already have?
Cases in point - the two rigs in the picture above. I believe that all the hardware (mods and tanks) are over 5 years old. The setup on the left has a bit of a story about it.
Sitting on my desk is a few old tube mods that I wonder what it would be like to use again. I found a old (I think KFv3) tank laying around, built a very low mass 2ohm coil in it, filled it up and went and tried it out on my old 15W tube mods. Sadly not a one of them liked the KFv3 and would register the 2ohm coil. So what to do? I had a old Evic that surely could be put into power mode. While I was not to surprised that it all works (I've actually refilled the tank a few times and replaced the battery once) the vape is more restrictive than I tend to like and be it the build (or the 10W power mode) I don't really like the flavor of the unflavored juice with this. Another negative is that while it is top fill, there is no juice flow control so the atomizer get flooded each time the tank is refilled. While I could (and have) used it in a pinch, I can get 1-2 tank fills on a single 3000mah battery.
The setup on the right represents some historical firsts for me. Years ago when I first got into rebuilding a Lemo2 was one of three tanks I bought when I started. It was also my first top fill tank. Sitting under it is my first ever Dicodes mod (a #6). This mod is setup in TC mode with 380F temperature setting and 23W.
Be it the better tank or the use of TC mode, the setup on the right provides a good vape. The 26650 has enough mah to easily allow me to vape the tank dry (takes me most of the day) and since years ago I got Dicodes very over priced charger, I just drop the mod in the charger at the end of the day and its ready for more vaping in a few hours.
So, anyone else putting to use or having some fun with +5 year old vaping gear? How do you like it?
g.
Alright, it's been a while since I've been on ECF, so I figured since I've got a reason to post - I will. My 150w box mod shorted out my batteries, and the firing button and + button broke so now they're loose and disconnected. I figured since the warranty is still valid I'd exchange it or get my money back. But note I will NOT order from fasttech or anything that'll have me waiting a month for my purchase to get here. My budget is $70/usd, so I know my options are a bit slim. But here's my average vape set up: usually under 50 watts, but I'd prefer at least 60 watts+ on my device (I'd be willing to go with a 30 watt, but it'd have to be amazing for me to consider it). Coils on my RDA were usually under 1.0ohm (.2ohms-.8ohms) I HATE built in batteries so something I could use my 18650's in would be ideal (preferably dual 18650 but I'm willing to compromise), mechanical box mods sketch me out so I'd rather not get one of those. I don't care about the brand, as long as it's reliable, fits my budget and most of my preferences. Now that you have a base, lay it on me. What do you think would be a good new mod for me? I'm willing to compromise, but not by much. Thanks guys, I appreciate any suggestions.
So, I was traveling for work today, and I had to stop at a gas station to grab a drink and use the restroom. As I was checking out, I overheard one of the other customers asking the clerk if he had any vapes. The clerk told the customer they only had the Vuze e-cigs. The customer was bummed out because he had forgotten his setup on the counter of a vape shop in Sacramento, which he was sure was gone by now, saying "Those things aren't cheap," and I told them I know all about it, lol. He was waiting for some food he ordered to be ready, so I went ahead and made my purchases and went outside to take a vape break. When he came out, he lit up a cigarette, having succumb to the urge and the not having a vape. We got to talking, and he told me that he was a veteran, having been discharged after his Humvee was blown up by an IED, leaving him with a TBI - Traumatic Brain Injury. He has a hard time remembering things, and that was part of the reason he left his vape behind. He told me he was using a mechanical (I deduced that after he told me it was a metal tube with a button on the bottom) with a cheap clearo that had a very tight draw. He didn't really know much about vaping, he just knew that it had help him go a month without smoking. I showed him my setup - a Smok Xpro M80 Plus with an Artic tank using the .2 ohm coil, filled with Vape Wild's King Cake at 65/35 VG/PG 3mg nic - and he was pretty impressed. I let him try it out, and he was just blown away by it. He really enjoyed how well it hit, how much he could taste it, and how much vapor it produced, saying he could really feel the nicotine, even at 3mg. He told me a guy at the vape shop he goes to gave him a box mod, and he showed it to me, a simple unregulated box mod - an 18650 Hammond box with a missing back, no MOSFET, no nothing. I told him he should get a couple batteries and find a back to go on his box, even told him I would be on the lookout for one. I also gave him one of my drippers, a TOBH Atty clone, and told him about coil building, and how drippers work. I also gave him a couple bottles of Vape Wild's Dragon Juice 3mg, 65/35. The last nice thing I did was to tell him about this place, telling him that everyone here is more than happy to help answer any questions he might have, and to give him some advice. Anyway, just wanted to tell you guys a little about my moment of Vape It Forward tonight. Hopefully he ends up showing up here someday. Support the troops, guys and girls, they need it.
So do any knows if aspire figure out why the device is auto firing on it’s own. If not I been sitting and trying to figure out why? I been reading a lot and seeing people saying it’s a button malfunction, but I been messing with it. I seen that the air draw switch on top of the device goes inside air hole under the tank which controls the draw to auto activate was tilt and had juice around it. So I clean it and I reposition the switch back to the center. Mash it down to see if the auto draw react and it did and now it’s working properly. It could of been just me or aspire just didn’t understand there own device.. ♂️
hi i have and endura Endura T18 vape and it is fully charged and full tank but when i press the button it goes orange and is still orange when i take my finger off the button but then it goes off. when i press the button the cape is not firing and doesn’t work. what do i do?
I have a smock mechanical tube mod and when I hit it it gets hot down where the button is. Is this bad? I pulled out my battery and its not warm at all. But my mod is. Your thoughts are appreciated