China Kanthal

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

Hey all, I was just wondering, I've seen a few people talk about using A1 kanthal? Im not too sure what im using, but i know its 24guage kanthal. If im just making .2-.8 ohm builds, on a stingray x and I also have a voltage regulated box mod. whats the safest/best wire to use?  

I never used anything but Kanthal and Nichrome wire to build my coils.

All things being 100% equal (wire gauge, coil type, coil diameter, ohms, etc) do SS coils require more power to run to get the same vapor as the exact same coil/resistance made from Kanthal or Nichrome wire?  

Hey folks,

Have been getting into vaping on temp control (DNA40) devices with Nickel Wire builds in RDAs. Does anyone have experience with cleaning these builds to extend life? You can't dry-burn Nickel Wire the way you can Kanthal so I haven't figured out a way to clean these builds other than rinsing as well as possible and rewicking.

Hate the idea of having to rebuild every time but if that is what needs to happen I'll do it.  

I’m a mouth to lung vapor and currently using the holic rda and galaxies rdta. I’ve tried using ni80 round wire and superfine mtl fused Clapton ni80 wire. The round wire is so easy to work with and the superfine is harder but I’m getting the hang of it. My question is with coils that ohm out the same with each wire I get flat flavor with the round wire and the flavor definitely pops with the fused Clapton wire. Is this normal? Same juice, same wattage, same ohms and same rda and squonk.
I love working with the round wire but not worth it if I can’t get better flavor.  

My buddy wanted me to show him how to wrap up some coils. Hes using a vamo v5 and he bought an orchid v3. He doesnt like harsh draws but rather a smooth, light, cool pull. So i decided to try that standard wire that comes in the orchid v3's package. Its that stock, hair thin wire that comes in the box with most of your typical RDA's RTA's, but i cant figure out the gauge dimension on it. Im trying to get him a whole roll of it so he can wrap his own. If you guys can help me out i would appreciate it. Thanks!  

I'm only on day nine with my new MVP3 and Nautilus tank (started out with the 1.6 BVC) and I'm down here... Yesterday as I was vaping my MVP shut down and wouldn't turn back on. I had just full charged it but tossed it on the charger anyway and it came back on. Took a couple of vapes and BAM, down again... Put it on the charger again and it came on again but this time the display was flashing two dashes in the ohms section.

So, I switched out to the other head that came with it, had a few vapes and WAMO, down again. Plugged it in, came back up, couple of vapes and down again and again this other head now flashes the two dashes in the ohms section. Now here's the weird thing... When I popped the second head on it read 2.3 ohms. I didn't think anything of it at the time, being new and all, but when I just went to confirm which head I used first and second I read the stamp on the second and it says it's only a 1.8 ohm head.... Another strange thing is that as I was vaping on this second head I changed the watts to improve the vape after a couple vapes and I noticed it read 2.5 ohms, then after a few more vapes it went down with the flashing dashes.

When I took out the second head I notice there is juice in the very bottom of the bottom hardware, where the head is screwed into. I'm assuming this means it was flooded, but being a rookie I could be wrong. At any rate.... I'm not happy vaper right now In hind sight I realize I should have bought some extra heads, but again... Rookies make rookie mistakes right In my defense though, the guy at the shop said I should have been good for a month with what I had bought so I thought I'd be good. I uploaded a quick video to show the MVP3 display and the bottom hardware in case it was needed. You can see it he



So now the questions... What would cause two new heads to die like that, or are they dead? Would it be a head problem or a problem with the MVP3? Am I correct regarding the fluid in the bottom hardware being a result of flooding, and if so what would have caused the flooding and could this have been the cause of the dead heads? And finally... What type of wire can I use to rebuild the heads? I've been reading a lot and watching a lot of videos on rebuilding over the past month or so and hear about nichrome, kanthal, and caplan... Does it need to be a specific type of wire or can I use some wire that I have here that I used for other purposes? Maybe an old guitar string? LOL

I'm desperate here.... I need my vape!!! I don't have the cash to buy new heads until around the 18th of the month and there's a carton of stinkys in the fridge and I do NOT want to resort to them if I start going bonkers Any assistance at all is greatly appreciated.  

I found this semi-old spool of kanthal in my drawer that was unopened, I threw out the packaging so I don't remember what it the company was but it was something along the lines of "Tuff #24 galvanized kanthal resistance wire" but I built a couple of coils and they all short, I've tried it on 3 diff attys and still shorts, I made sure its not touching any other metal or anything. It was a dirty but i washed it with soap and water and its not grimy or greasy from machine oil but parts of it aren't shiny like wire is supposed to be they're gray-blackish. Is that causing the problem.  

VapingwithTwisted420 is using Spider Silk titanium wire for his temp controlled reviews.

I have an allergy to Nickel and have been using TI wire on my IPV4. Definitely something to consider.

[Moderated]  

Does anyone know what gauge wire the Lemo2 comes w/? It doesnt say but its real heavy. I like it. Coils keep their shape better when wicking thick.