Kanger Aerotank2 Coil Question..

Hey guys whats up. Well I had gotten the Sub Mini tank, the first tank I got was a dud. I had nothing but issues with it since day one. Coils went bad in 1.5 days both coils, then the rba deck was giving my sigeili issues and errors.

So I sent it back, They replaced it, and I now have Version 2 as they say. This tank has 2 air slots and different Holes in the tank. I used the Stock .5 coil but was just getting wayyyy too many dry hits.. So I went to the RBA deck, been using the coil that came with it, and I have 100% organic cotton. So I been using that, but now I am getting Dry hits with this thing!!! every 4th hit Is Dry!! I have to cover the holes and pull to get teh cotton wet again, and then 4th hit shes dry again.

What is going on here? Anyone else have issues like this? I am really getting fed up with this and ready to just throw it away. What can I do about the situation or why is this happening?

E-juice = 80/20 Clear Liquid all fruity flavors 3MG  

Hey all,

So, I've been really happy with my new setup (iStick 50w and 30w, Nautilus and Mini Nautilus). Everything has been working smoothly, but I have a problem with the replacement coils I purchased (and cannot return).

Went to go change out the coil in one of my tanks this evening. Filled the tank up as usual, made sure the air shaft and drip tip were clean, screwed on my new coil, filled the tank, and let it sit and wick up for half an hour. Took some pulls without firing, dropped it to 8w (to "step up" and prime the new coil), and immediately got a nasty burnt hit that I can still taste an hour later. Unscrewed the tank to see what was wrong, and noticed the wicking material was bone dry.

For the longest time, I could not figure out what happened, why it wasn't wicking...until I looked closer. The e-liquid holes on the replacement coil I have are TINY! The coils that came with the tanks have holes that are at least twice, maybe three times the diameter. The holes are so small that my e-liquid will not even enter them to soak the wicking material. I checked the serial number scratch off on Aspire's site and both boxes of replacement coils I have came up as authentic.

I'm displeased. $22 down the drain, now I have to rush and find a dealer who has the "correct" coils. I cannot use these coils whatsoever, and the dealer I purchased from does not accepted returns on atomizers.



On the left is the coil that came with the tank (both of my tanks came with this exact same coil, and two replacements that look exactly like it, but I've used them up and am on the new ones). On the right, the coil I purchased in a replacement pack of 5. You can see they look nearly identical, except for the size of the wicking holes. Also, the piece at the bottom seems a bit more flimsy, as you can see in the picture, it's not exactly straight with the rest of the atomizer.

So, can anyone point me to a dealer that has the coils I need? I'm afraid of ordering from somewhere and getting the ones on the right, which are useless and do not soak up any e-liquid whatsoever.  

I can't find the post, but someone recently posted a helpful YouTube video on how to change cotton in a Kanger Subtank coil. I had no idea it was so easy, and I'm going to try it on my old coils. I've saved the video for future reference. My question is: how do you know when you need to change the cotton vs. when you need to change the entire coil? I don't think I'm up to doing my own coils yet. Is changing cotton just a way to prolong their life a little longer, and do you get to a point when you have to redo the whole shebang? Also, does any cotton from a vape store work, or do you need a specific kind depending on what kind of coil you have?  

So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again  

Hello vapers! first! I'm a noob at this stuff because I just buy my tank and use it with the coils it comes with and second, my english isnt that good but I can understand it perfectly fine.

Anyway, Ive been searching everywhere but I couldnt find a solid answer to my question.
Im using an Aerotank Giant right now with a 1.8 ohm coil, if I put a 1.2 ohm I would have to use less voltage because I get a burnt taste and the coil burns pretty quick, Im about to order a Sub ohm tank soon and I'll use the stock coils, the one im getting is the Kangertech SubOhm tank.
Why do subohm coils use more voltage when normal coils use less?

I mean, Ive seen people do things like 0.2 ohm coil @ 100W + If I did anything over 3.5V on my 1.2 ohm coil itd burn instantly... SubOhm takes more voltage the lower you go and normal dual coils take less voltage the lower you go!

1.9 Ohm Dual coil = 3.7-3.8V for me
0.5 ohm OOC subtank sub ohm coil = 12-30W?!

Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply to this post and your patience!

Cheers!

Edit: by the way, Im planning to use my subtank with a 50/50 PG/VG 16mg nicotine, Is that ok?  

ok ... so there was a thread that showed insect droppings in some cotton someone got with a RBA ... but I can't seem to find it.

So I thought I'd have a look at the cotton sample in my Kanger Subtank Mini & .. sure enough ... bug bits & little black "dots" (bug poop I assume). Okay ... fine ... I've not used it & will not use it. I have enough cotton (bacon) to keep me going for years, and I'm happily puffing away on the .50ohm OCC premade coil supplied by ........

........and then it dawned on me that it was supplied by the same folks that put a wad of bug-gunk-ridden cotton in the box with my ST mini ... Kanger.

So ... the question is if anyone has taken apart the OCC coils & found little black specks in the cotton, or other foreign "pieces" ?? I'm wondering if the cotton Kanger uses for the OCC coils is the same cotton they give you in the box to wick the RBA deck with.  

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

I can only get about a 1-2 day life span out of coils that are organic cotton based. After 1-2 days, they start seeping a dark colored liquid into my tank and ruining the juice. This has happened in my Atlantis tank running Melo coils vaping at 32 watts and my Herakles tank running 55 watts. Keep in mind I vape about 7-10ml a day. Juices are 70VG/30PG or 80VG/20PG all at 3mg nic.

On the flip side, if I vape old school Atlantis coils at 32 watts on the same juices, I get a full week before this happens.

Any ideas on how to make cotton coils last longer?! For this reason, I can't wait to get my Lemo 2 in. I'll be able to rewick daily and not worry about cost.

The way things are going, I am losing so much money on coils it's nuts. See picture to see whats happening.

Oh yeah, this is happening on all kinds of juices I vape. Mt Baker Vapor, Vista Vapors, 4 Pillars, The Milk Man. Some are budget juices - others are premium. No matter what juice I use, it happens.

The BIGGEST killer is Zeus Juice with 80%PG, 20%VG. This juice kills a coil in one tank full. I'm guessing the sweeteners in that juice do it.

It's frustrating because I LOVE my Herakles tank running at 55W but if I have to replace the coil every 1-2 days, that's SO expensive.  

I've yet to buy a VW mod but i will be soon. However the outcome of this thread will dictate which one i go for.
Ive been looking at a few:

MVP 3 Pro (60w mod)
Itaste 50w mod
Coolfire 4 40w mod
Kanger Subbox Mini

For arguments sake lets say you have a 0.5ohm stock coil in an Isub G tank on the Istick 50w. You also have a 2ohm stock coil for it.
The mod is capable of supplying 50w to both the 0.5 ohm coil and the 2ohm coil. 50w is 50w right? So what, if any, is the benefit of putting a sub ohm coil in the VW mod?
The manufacturers market them as sub ohm mods, but why go sub ohm if the device is capable of the same wattage on a 1+ohm coil, the experience would be the same?

Which leads me to a similar question. Would any VW mod from say 30w capable to 60w capable basically give the exact same experience for the majority of users assuming the same tank is fitted?

I'm quite new to this but i hope my question is understandable
Thanks  

Recently discovered the Slow Motion feature to record 240FPS on my iPhone, so my buddy and I decided to film a coil firing to see what it looked like slowed down. The build was a .21ohm quad coil on a Mutant 26650 w/ MNKE batts. I thought this looked pretty cool, and was wondering what others thought of this feature for showing off your builds.

Here is the one we recorded first.