Question About Builds

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


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Hello.
So I think i kind like a cooler vape been getting some heavy lung feeling lately been vaping a 1.2 ohm single coil 28 g kanthal
cotton wick on kayfun clone v4 Tobecco, i would like to try like maybe 1.8 or a 2.0 ohm coil or is the kayfun v4 really better for
lower ohm coils I keep reading where the kayfuns sweet spot is like 1.2 - 1.5 i did lower my wattage from 14 to 12 but i like to seem some clouds more of a flavor chaser than a cloud person though
so i am just wondering if anyone has tried a kayfun around 2.0 ohms and what the vape was like
thank you  

Just wondering what everyone who has used both tanks think of there effectiveness. A 1.6-1.8 bvc coil nautilus vs a 1.5 micro coil in a kayfun v4 (clone). Would you rate them the same?? I only ask because it seems the nic (6mg) in my nautilus tank at 17 watts has less effect than my kayfun 4 (tobecco clone) at 17 watts, (same juice 50/50 mix) Obviously the kayfun is not a dripper, but does the micro coil have any impact as far as vapor effectiveness??Sometimes I think I get a little nic sick compared to the the nautilus mini. idk maybe I'm just paranoid lol  

I am running my Kanger Subtank mini rba deck on .9 ohm (spaced 4 wrap 28awg IIRC) at 13 watts and it is cloudy and flavorful. The OCCs were fine but I prefer the rba I think (even though I'm still a bit of a build novice). Many others seem to run it at 25+ watts and lower resistance. I had it at .5 Ω and ~19 watts was good, had dry hits above 23 watts. Now have dry hits above 15 watts at .9 Ω. I'm still playing around, but this current build/wattage is working awesome.

Other important factors:
Tobacco and vanilla DIY juice 4mg 50/50 PG/VG Organic cotton, standard wick Only had Subtank for 3 weeks Coming from BCC clearos Been vaping for 6 years Used to be mouth-to-lung, doing a lot of direct lung but still switching back sometimes What's your style with the Subtank? How are you running it? What's your wick-style? Dry hits? Wattage? Ω?  

I have a new istick 30w that I use with a smok micro adc2. I've used it with a new 2 ohm coil at 8 watts and is great. I changed to a used coil I had cleaned and things got weird. It's a 2 ohm coil and the istick is reading it at 4.9! At 8 watts the throat hit was too much so I went down to 6 watts. According to the manual the istick doesn't even fire to 4.9 ohms. So let's see what you got?  

I am new to the mod world and I entered the foray with an IStick 30 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. When I use an old cheapo tank that came off an earlier Ego my juice taste fine. It's a 2.7 ohm coil set at 7.5 watts at 4.5 volts.The problem is the taste with my Kanger hooked up. It is very harsh. I also do not get the same visible exhaust (sorry, but I can't think of another term ) I operate it at about the same watts. I have tried both a sub ohm coil and a 1.2 ohm coil. I have also tried different air intake settings. One thing to note: The cheapo tank gives me a much tighter draw (It's harder to draw in the air). I have adjusted the Kanger down to the smallest inlet and the resistance still seems very easy.

Would the difference in resistance of the coils affect the taste with running the same power. Do some juices just not taste good with different tanks? I must be doing something wrong. Maybe I assembled it wrong by leaving out something but for the life of me I can't see what? I did insert a little piece of cotton in one of the coils which was foreign to me.

Any ideas? Fire away and don't assume anything. Again, I am ignorant with these mods so I am learning here. Thanks a bunch  

hi all
I have a mvp 3 and I use iclear 30 tanks 1.9 to 2.1 ohms
im vapeing at 12 watts 5.1 volts and have been for a few weeks now
everything was fine until today right now in fact hence the reason for this question
I refilled my tank and screwed it back on my mvp when I pressed the button to vape
it reads the ohms and volts and wattage the wattage was as normal 12 watts
the volts were 7.1 and the ohms were 6.0 totally unvapable and burnt tasting
(I should also point out that the volts and watts are locked in on the mvp)
I have also tried the tanks on other devices and still the same issue
which leads me to believe its the tanks at fault and not the device
I have been vapeing long enough to understand the reasons for burnt taste
and the causes and solutions to rectify it but I have never had this happen before
I tried other tanks and the same has happened except for one which works fine
does anyone have any idea whats going on
thanks
steve  

So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............


Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.  

so in my pursuit of vaping above 200 Watts I made a fuse 3x24ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge and I tried three coils. it came out .07 I Vaped it at about 375 watts it was a hot vape but the ohms were very low so I had a problem with power my DNA 250c was reporting 65 amp output so I took that and put in dual fuse 22ga gauge wrapped with 36 gauge I ran that build triple coil I used it at about 250 Watts. what I am trying to do is vape at about 300 to 400 watts with an ohm or .2 to .3. the inner diameter will be 5.5 or 5 mm I'll be using the kanthal core wrapped with 36 gauge and ni80.I'm trying to figure out what my next bill should be to try to vape above 300 watts the restrictions I have is it can't be below point 1 ohm or above .3 ohm I have two aromamizer plus has with the series deck The parallel deck a second parallel deck and a single coil deck. The single coil deck fit 6.36 mm.

I also have the aromamizer titan.

What gauge would you Clapton?

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vaparroos,

so here is a chart: http://i.imgur.com/6oraBGI.png

this charts says if i have a 1.2 ohm in my kanger subtank that i can vape at 6.0 volts at 30 watts and be ok, but i know that is not the case...

when i'm vaping at 1.2 ohm at 3.8 votls its ok, but i'm in the orange too...why am i still in the orange at 6 volts?

hope that makes sense...