Life Is Good!!!

Don't know what is better coming home to dinner,my dog or Vape Mail.Just got the siegelei 100 watt plus in.So far I am extremely impressed all I had to do is put some batteries in turn it on and put my RDA on and wow this thing kicks.Running a .4 ohm dual coil build and so far a nice cool vape can't wait to play around and see what other builds will do on this thing.  


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Higher Wattages (50+ Watts) Useless On Voopoo Drag X Plus?

I've been using only twin-18650 mods for some time, and before the shipping ban came into effect, I bought a backup of my most-used mod (a Geekvape Aegis X), but since the 100W single 21700 / 18650 Voopoo Drag X Plus was only $35, I also picked up one of them as another backup.

I vape exclusively on RDA's, typically with a 3mm dual coil twisted build with 24 or 26 gauge Kanthal or nichrome-80. 5 or 6 wraps with 24 gauge, 6-8 wraps with 26 gauge. I typically vape these between 90 and 110 watts.

I did not expect to get a 'true' 90-100 watts out of the Drag X, so I set a target of around 60 watts. I mounted a 3mm dual coil twisted 28 gauge build with 6 wraps, which on my Aegis X vapes great at 60 watts, and very good at 50 watts. It measures at 0.45 ohms.

But on the Drag at 60 watts, it only vapes at what feels like 30 watts on my Aegis. Setting it higher makes no difference either, it seems to 'top out' at ~30 watts regardless of the setting. 60 watts @ 0.45 ohms is only around 11 amps, so I doubt I'm hitting an amperage limit.

I am using 18650 batteries (VTC5A), and it is about time to replace them, as I am only getting around 70% the battery life as I did when new. I will be picking up some 21700 batteries at the same time, which hopefully help with things on the Voopoo.

Does anybody have any good experiences with ~60 watt builds on a Drag X Plus?  

About Battery

hi, i have been vaping with same setting for 2 years :
Regulated mod, Single coil rda, 2.5 mm alien coil 0.25 ohm, 30-35 watt, 18560 sony batteries.
I have been using the same batteries over and over for 2 years.
And I consider my self an expert when its come to my setting i mean I really know when its wicking issue or burnt coil or wrong coil position, 510 contact, battery contact etc ....
The thing now is that i feel some thing wrong with my vape, i dont feel it hit hard as it was before, it do spitback the ejuice to my mouth, flavor is little bit down.
So what i am asking is :
- could it be the batteries since I abused them?
- Is it possible that my mod show 30watt in the screen and doesn’t manage to deliver that 30 watt to the coil?
- I know as fact that long time used batteries have less capacity so they will charge and discharge fast, but i wonder if they also will be weak and don't hit hard enough in compared with its original states ?  

Vape Mail And The Resulting Aftermath...





Just got this SX 350 mini M. It's been working beautifully sans a few issues that I am sure are user induced.

First off I will tell you that the Lemo 2 that came in at the same time is Freaking awesome. I have a Kanger Sub Lemo drop and now the Lemo 2. The Lemo 2 kicks *** I the airflow department. It's robust and easy as hell to fill. I put a 3mm coil in it and pancaked the wick. 9 wraps and it's coming in at .118 ohms. Awesome flavor production and nice thick vapor.

So I moved on to the Tugboat to see how Ni200 fairs in the RDA world on this particular device. I went bananas with my coil and ended up with this monstrosity.



I twisted two strands of 28g Ni200 together with a drill and wrapped it 17 times. It comes in at .06 ohms. Performance wise it takes a while to ramp up but when it does it produces thick vapor but towards the hot side. Another thing is that the drip too gets hot really quickly. I'm running it 50J and have the temp cut off at 425F. The hot drip tip is one of the issues I mentioned. I vaped this thing bone dry and didn't get any burnt taste.

Then I moved on to the Lemo drop. The manual had an interesting coil method reccomended so I decided to go for it.





This one I wrapped about 10 times on a 3mm driver. Stuffed a small amount of additional cotton down inside like the manual suggested. The problem is that it gets stupid hot (the drop tip) stupid fast. I'm running it at 17J because this one is coming in at .365 ohms.

Short story long the device itself is working great. I just need to find the sweet spot with this Ni200 coil wise. Any tips in that department would be greatly appreciated.

At the end of it all the LEMO 2 and the Mini M seem like they were made for one another.  

Question About Coils

Is there a wire that I can build with that has a lower heat output than kathal? I'm a newb and just starting to build. The only thing I know is that I like a cool vape but I want something that will produce good clouds and flavor.  

Question About Builds

So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again  

My Complete Setup (mod, Rda, And Juice)

Hey everyone, I just wanted to post my setup here, nothing to fancy so just take a quick look and feel free to leave a comment or reply.

To kick things off I've got a Seeker Mech Mod by EHPRO. It's a sleek design, all copper, and easy to press button. Little short and thick for those of us who like our setups to look beefy.

Atty- The Tobh Atty. It is a pain in the butt to take apart from the get go but once you get a bit of juice on all the O rings it comes apart fairly easy. Good deck to build on all pre-drilled holes on the three posts 1(+) and 2(-) (Obviously). Deep basin to hold plenty of juice for our drip and drivers safety. My current build is a dual single coil coming in at 0.28 ohms. Using a regular cotton wick.

Juice- "Bliss" made by The Artisan Vapor 100%VG This juice is an explosive flavor of fruits, and for being 100%VG it has a heavy flavor. 39ml bottle runs at 20$ not to bad for a good juice. When I drip with a full basin it lasts roughly an hour, and I heavily use my vape.

Battery- This thing is one of the best right now but I'm still limited on what builds I can do. My 0.28 is safe, however my 0.22 is unsafe (Go figure) ANYWAYS! (Specs) MNKE IMR-26650 3.7(low) 4.2(High) 3500mAh.

So I think that's all. Thanks for reading guess, and questions or comments just drop it down below. Goodbye and VAPE ON!
 

Voltage Sag

An online vape shop here at Greece at the description for dotBox Dual Mech mod says"

"Switch to Parallel Mode for longer Vaping time and exceptional power from two 18650 batteries".

The dotbox dual mech has the option to select series or parallel connection via a switch.
I send them a email that this doesn't apply (for the same power output always),for example 0.1 ohm coil in parallel connection and 0.4 ohm coil in series connection.

Two batteries in series provide the same amount of watt hours a parallel connection does.

The vapeshop replied and told me that the description is copy and paste from Dotmod.com

Indeed.
QUOTE from dotBox Dual Mech - dotmodretail
"Last Longer. Switch to Parallel Mode for longer Vaping time and exceptional power from two 18650 batteries".

The vape shop also said that the voltage sag at parallel connection is spread out over the two batteries in Parallel.Thus more vaping time than using a series connection.

Okey I made the calculations for voltage sag using for example two Sony VTC5A 18650 batteries with a DC Internal Resistance = 18.6mOhms (0.018 ohm).

I got the same voltage sag 0.378 V in both configurations (0.1 build in parallel-0.4 build in series).

Am i correct or am I missing something?(i'll send to the vape shop the link for this thread so they can read your opinions because i think they believe i'm talking bulls..t!  

Coil Builds

I'm about to venture into doing my own builds and I had a silly question. I have watched dozens of videos on how to do builds and have even done a couple builds on some of my friends attys. I have one friend who on all his dual builds he uses two coils with different wraps. For example one coil with 7 wraps and one with 5. Does anyone else build this way? I have never asked him why he does this and in all the videos I've watched I've never seen anyone else do it. Is there a specific reason? Just curious  

Having A Hard Time Adjusting.

I’ve been away from vaping for about 7 yrs. I don’t have any of my old equipment, which now I miss very much. I’ve been trying to get back to vaping for health reasons, and having to learn all over again. Everything is dual coil. I NEVER used dual coil, but I’m trying to learn. I got a Vaporesso PM40, a Drag S a hcigar vt inbox and a POS squonker that I’m using for a dripper (reviews said they leak and short out causing me to fire by their self. I joy cappo squonk box).
Do I figure dual coil watts and amps like I did my single coil builds. I never got into the low sub-ohm thing. Maybe 0.9-1 ohm.
It’s good to be back in ECF again.  

Could My Vape Have Been Damaged?

I had my vape on my pocket (vaporesso swag) and forgot to turn it off, then I felt heat coming from it and took it out and it was indeed hot and with a burnt smell. Also it had very little juice so the coil was burning I think. I have another coil so I can change it, but could the overall vape be damaged?