Need Advice On My Next Mod

Right now I have a cloupor mini and a magma and a subtank. But I'm ready to upgrade. I want to push the ohms lower and the watts up. My mini only goes to 30w but I'm looking to vape maybe 50 watts plus. So I'm thinking around a 70 or 75 watt mod and idk about a new topper. I'm thinking maybe a lemo and some kind of a new dripper. Maybe a plume veil or mutation x. Anyone have any recommendations. Btw I am on a budget.  

Does that exist?

I am currently using a IPV2S/Atlantis. I LOVE this setup but its just a tad bulky. I'm a girl and my bag is rather small so I was hoping to have something that I can just slip in . Something that produces 40-50watts is sufficient enough and it HAS to be regulated. I've always loved the way a telescopic mod looks but hate how most are unregulated.

You guys know of any? Seems like they are either unregulated or it produced up to 30watts only  

So I was just wondering what resistances (and I suppose coils) people use for their cloud chasing builds.
Is the lower resistance or surface area of the coils more important?

My current go-to setup is a dual micro coil at around 0.18 - 0.20 ohms with 24 guage (I think 4 wraps).  

I have bought four RDAs from VaporDNA, all Project Subohm. First was the CLT V3 Infinite.

It read at a 0.09ohms on my reader unbuilt. So I emailed them, and they sent a replacement. In the mean time, I managed to fix the first one. The second one also read at a 0.09ohms on my reader, but I managed to fix that one, too. (BTW, by "fixed", I mean "got to read at a 1 on my ohm reader unbuilt). Bolstered by my experience being easily able to fix the CLT, I ordered a Swirlfish. Same issue, but this time, I couldn't fix it.

Got a replacement, same issue, only, again, couldn't fix it.

Figured "third times the charm", though, and got a Mutation V3. It read at a 1 on my ohm reader. Made me so frickin' happy, I got a third Swirlfish... which failed again and I couldn't fix it.

However, the new Mutation V4 came out, and since the V3 came perfect I went ahead and bought it...

Well, it's reading at a 0.08ohms unbuilt, and I can't fix it. I don't even want to email them for a replacement, because I'm fully expecting it to be the same, and I'm really sick of this same thing over and over again. VaporDNA's customer service is wonderful and the response time is almost lightning fast, but a) this is product after product, b) you can't tell me they aren't getting sick of hearing from me, and c) if I'm the only one they keep hearing about this from, there's no way it isn't starting to look suspicious.

But there is simply no way I'm the only one experiencing this. It's not my ohm reader, which has fresh batteries and reads all un-shorted, built RDAs accurately. And yet I still got a Smok Omnitester which is on its way, just in case.

So what in the hell is going on, here? I may get a regular, non-Project Subohm Mutation V4 from somewhere else and just get my money back on this one or something, but I'm really at the end of my patience with this. It's ridiculous.

If you get Project Subohm RDAs, please check them on your ohm readers. Somebody... please somebody... say I'm not alone in experiencing this.

Please.  

ive been looking at what I'm going to buy next for the past couple of weeks. My current setup is an iStick 30w and a Aspire CF with 2 Nautilus Minis. I'm thinking of taking the next step with a new regulated mod. One that either holds a single or dual battery or possibly a mechanical mod. I don't want to waste my money on something cheap that I will 'grow out of'. I am also thinking of going for a new tank or RBA or RDA. Is this the route I should take?

Suggestions on gear and new mods, etc. websites. Prices.

Thank you guys always  

I have a CLT v2 Plus and a Mutation X v2 running on a Sigelei 150w and an Asmodus Klone v1.5. I am a cloud chaser, just to get that out of the way. Both attys on both mods used to CHUCK the clouds like nobodys business. My builds have not changed, if anything I have gotten much better at it obviously with time and practice. But boths attys on both mods just don't do what they used to. Neither performs in a way that is something to be "ashamed" of, if you will. But they don't do near what I used to get out of them. Maybe it's the batteries? I have 10 18650 batteries, all have been in even rotation for a while now. Although I would think it wouldn't be such a big deal in the Sigelei, it being regulated and all, right? Or maybe I just suck and don't know it? I am not against getting new atomizers, as I love throwing away hard earned money on vape gear I don't really need as much as the next ECF member, but still. Thoughts?  

I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.

The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.

This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.  

Hey guys. I have been in the vaping scene for a little while now. Just curious to what everyone likes to sub-ohm with.

My favorites so far.

Mutation X V3- 24 gauge dual parallel 5/6 wrap
Mutation X V4- 20 gauge dual 5/6 wrap or dual 6/7 wrap
Turbo RDA- both of the above builds work well

I've had the dark horse, doge and doge v2, freakshow, and a few other RDA's and the 3 above have been my favorite....v3 was my favorite for a while until I tried the v4, its now my favorite, and its a tie between the v3 and turbo for 2nd and 3rd place.  

So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.

I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?  

I've mostly used tanks but now I want to start building coils on my mutation rda and doge rda. I'm looking to want to build between a 0.2 and 0.3 ohm coil. How many wraps and what drillbit size should I use? Thanks!