I just Started rebuilding my kanger dual coils and im having a issue , seems like when i build them and check my ohms on my meter they are right where i want them but when i put them in my tank and fire them up the ohms fluxuate like crazy from low to high ohms, any idea why it happens ? It occurs even when i build single coils. Anyway to fix this? Thanks
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...
Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??
By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...
8/9 wraps of AWG 29 Kanthal on 2mm bit should give you around 1.8 ohms, right? At least that is what it has always given me. This evening I was rebuilding a Nautilus BVC like I have done so many times before. Lo and behold I put the coil on the ohm meter and it's reading 0.18. I look for sticking out bits of wire. None. I throw out the coil and start over with exactly the same build as always. Again I get 0.16 ohms. I test it on all my regulated mods... same result on all of them.
How is this even possible?!
I haven't seen this discussed yet, so I figured I'd announce my discovery:
I use a Kanger EVOD single coil tank, and a non variable voltage eGo style Kanger battery.
When I vape PG, it tastes like a grandma ultra light if I don't use a 1.8ohm coil.
But these 1.8ohm coils burn out instantaneously if I put VG in.
To vape the thicker VG, the 2.5ohm coils work wonderfully.
GS Air coils/GS 3ml tanks.
I Googlefied this and Did see One place that said A worn out tank could make coils not last as long. (Sounds near fetched to me...)
Can an old tank start Causing premade coils to show Low ohms, like. 05 ohm?
I am pretty sure these are factory coils not FT copycats.
Bruce in Ocala, Fl
Just finished up my first build using 24 Guage kanthal with 9 wraps. It's a dual coil build that came out to .49 ohms. It's not the best looking build but for my first attempt I guess it's not too shabby. It was built on my mutation x v4. 40-45w was about as high as I could go before it got too hot for my liking. just wanted to share it.
I bought a Kanger Subtank and Atlantis V2, but sold them because they just weren't wicking my 100% VG liquid (Velvet Cloud & Gypsy eJuice) well at all. I tried using the atlantis with the .3 ohm coil installed at 70-80W, which was the stated operating range, and found it to be EXTREMELY hot. So hot that the tank quickly heated up to the point of almost burning my lips. The Kanger just burned the wick up at 20W+ with the .5 ohm coil, despite letting it sit filled for a few minutes and priming.
I am very interested in picking up a Royal Hunter, although I've no idea what pre-made coils (i dont want to make my own coils, just dont have the knowledge or time to learn how) and battery to get. VaporDNA sells UD pre-made coils in various resistances, but figuring out what resistance to use, and thus what wattage battery to get is where I am stuck. Not sure if it'd be better to run at lower ohms / higher wattages, or higher ohms / lower wattages. I'm not sure if it's possible to get massive clouds, but a cooler vape at the same time, but that's my aim.
Hello,
After vaping (sub-ohm) quite heavily for many years, I think it's time to quit that and switch back to MTL now.
What's the best/cheap MTL tank, affordable higher stock Ohms coils that use less liquid? I'll up my nic content to 12mg.
Thank you.
I recently upgraded to the Istick 30 and Subtank nano, and kinda want to try out a dripper, but do not want to build coils, check ohms etc. Are there any drippers available that take pre made coils? I guess I can wick if needed, but I'm not ready to jump into coil building yet. And if anyone could explain the benefits of dripping over a tank system, that would be great also I know changing flavors without dumping a tank, but any flavor or vapor advantages?
My MVP 20 watt recently started to get a little wonky on me. I use 1.5 ohm coils in an aerotank but for some reason the MVP is readin it as 4.9 and sometimes even higher. Of course its not hitting right either. I know its not the coils because if i put that same tank on my MVP 2.0 it reads correctly. The MVP 20w doesn't do this all the time but today its been doing it all day. It won;t go below 5 ohms and sometimes its even higher. Is this thing shot?