Okay so at the shop we were fixing a coil for my rba nd he went to put subtank on my istick nd it read no atomizer....then he pushed some cotton around n made sure screws were checked again then it worked...any idea y? The whole things been fine since I got it but ohms have jumped some ....
Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.
Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.
I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.
I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.
No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.
This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).
So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?
WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
I just got some japanese cotton pads and I have been building my rba section in subtank for a little while with organic cotton balls and have noticed that after I take a puff off of it I get this sizzling after I let go of the button I've read it could be to much cotton but I tried a very little amount of cotton and still get sizzling.. I'm using twisted 30 awg. Reading at .4 any idea?
I have a new istick 30w that I use with a smok micro adc2. I've used it with a new 2 ohm coil at 8 watts and is great. I changed to a used coil I had cleaned and things got weird. It's a 2 ohm coil and the istick is reading it at 4.9! At 8 watts the throat hit was too much so I went down to 6 watts. According to the manual the istick doesn't even fire to 4.9 ohms. So let's see what you got?
I can't find the post, but someone recently posted a helpful YouTube video on how to change cotton in a Kanger Subtank coil. I had no idea it was so easy, and I'm going to try it on my old coils. I've saved the video for future reference. My question is: how do you know when you need to change the cotton vs. when you need to change the entire coil? I don't think I'm up to doing my own coils yet. Is changing cotton just a way to prolong their life a little longer, and do you get to a point when you have to redo the whole shebang? Also, does any cotton from a vape store work, or do you need a specific kind depending on what kind of coil you have?
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum but I have read a few more topics before having to create an account and explain my problem in detail. I own a Geekvape Aegis Mini TC 80W (with the Cerberus tank) and I'm using a 50% / 50% e-liquid, with chocolate, coconut and oats from Nebula. I have owned it for about 2 weeks now. I've been using a .3 ohms coil in these weeks, and I've been really good, except for the last 2 days, I've burned the coil slightly and I don't like the taste anymore, so I decided to switch to the other .2 ohms that I've bought a couple of days ago, so I primed the coil by putting 4 drips in each cotton hole + 2 or 3 drips in the center cotton (it's a mesh coil). I forgot to say that I vape mainly from 30-40watts but it's fine even from 25-42W, I'll never go over it because only the noise scares me. Yes, I know, it's weird. Anyway, my problem is that after switching to a .2ohms coil (it's been about 30 minutes) at 30watts the taste is yucky, totally different, I wouldn't say burnt but not good, plus the noise is like it's muffled, yeah , I opened the holes, if I go over 30 watts the noise gets slightly louder but the taste worse. I would just like to know if I have to leave it overnight to let the liquid absorb well or change the coil directly because it is faulty (I have another 5 of .2ohms but no other so I can't go back to .3ohms)
So, is this normal?
Uhh...so idk what it is,tasting burnt no matter what ,new coils ...two different rba pieces for subtank mini...guys at local vape shop didn't taste it but I notice a flavor of burnt n not juice...tht was hours ago,just tried again few mins ago and not burnt,but why would it be like tht? If a bit more cotton would it b better? But then I get juice...less cotton I get odd taste...I can't win lol idea on y it's like tht? Rba's r both fine.
I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...
Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??
By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...
Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts
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Well this sucks, I have an iStick 30w and toptank mini, I ran out of pre made coils so I thought i would try the RBA of the toptank. At first it read out as “protection” upon trying to fire it (I think the ohms were too low on the pre made coils included with the RBA at .1), then it said low battery (it was almost fully charged) so i plugged it in and tried to fire it once more and the thing started smoking (no protection message this time, just a little puff of smoke within the LED window). I only fired the button for a split second and it still seems to be functioning. Not sure what I should do lol or just ditch out on it? It appears to be working yet but stinks like an electrical fire now. I’m kinda reluctant to use it (I still have an old coil but it was starting to taste funky). Any advice or idea what might’ve happened?