Ipv3 Back Plate

Good tip for you guys without magnetic back plates on box mods. Throw those crappy screws away!
Most plates are beveled to fit snug to the main body. Instead of having to unscrew those tiny little screws find yourself a rubber wrist bracelet and wrap it around your mod. So simple but very effective. They practically give those things away so it shouldn't be too hard to find one. Or you could buy one.
Try it out! I promise you will love it  

On my Atlantis tank my m65 always reads 0.5 or 0.6. But for my Aeolus RDA built at 0.5 ohms, it sometimes reads it differently jolting up to 1 ohm, which constantly makes me change the wattage. My bottom plate is sanded too.  

One of you guys suggested the Voopoo drag x when I discussed my 20th vape device no longer charging through the USB mini. It was a Geekvape which they claim are indestructible. Of course they don't mention how the USB port is a cheap piece of garbage that will eventually fail even when treated delicately. I received the Voopoo drag x in the mail a couple days ago. I didn't realize it doesn't come with a battery so I picked up an IR18650-25R 20A 3.7V battery at a local vape shop. It was working beautifully for about a half hour and then it would just turn off. Even if I pushed the buttons or clicked five times, it wouldn't power up unless I took out the battery, put it back in and then clicked five times. Then I would get a few puffs and it would turn off again. Then today, I started receiving a message that said "atomizer short". I kept getting this message over and over even if I took out the coil and put it back in. Occasionally, it would start working again, but between the device powering off and the atomizer short problem, it's more or less unusable. It was only about $60 in total so no biggie. So now I'm shopping around for my 22nd vape device. Does anyone have any suggestions?  

It was only about 5 feet to a hardwood floor, but when I looked down and saw two pieces lying there it caused a bit of panic.
I'm building a staircase in a new house and I leaned a little too far over from the landing with the rig in my shirt pocket. I really need to find a good holster for this thing.

After finishing what I was doing I scrambled down to assess the damage: the tank section of the nautilus had separated from the knurled ring just below the AFC ring. It's a friction fit set-up, and after cleaning the juice and sawdust from the parts I was able to tap everything back together with my hammer. I pushed the button on the Provi and nothing happened. Pushed the button a couple more times and I was back to vaping again with no leaks.

The owner witnessed the whole episode, and there wasn't even a dent in the finished oak flooring. He laughed as I cleaned up a couple of juice spots where it hit and watched me put it back together with a hammer.
I'm not usually this lucky.

Big shout-out to the makers of both products.  

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a tank and battery combo that subohm at . 5 but the tank has absolutely no juice spit back. I do know my atlantis and atlantis v2 have tiny droplets of juice that hit the tounge. So small that I don't notice it until I had someone point it out to me. I run 70pg, 30vg juice.

I'm looking for a setup for a friend with a tank that is small like the atlantis v1 or subtank mini with a small frame mod.

They currently have a I stick 30 so ideally I'd like a tank that works with that.

I will say thru personal testing the atlantis v2 will give me absolutely no spit back at 50 watts, but the I stick 30 cannot get to 50 watts.

If a new mod is needed, they will go with the new Kanger 50 box but my big concern is spit back. I'm talking I need a tank that has no spit back.

I'm looking at doing this in the smallest package I can. Ml capacity isn't a issue. Size and weight is the issue here too.

Rba tanks are out of question. Need something with replacement wicks.

Any ideas?

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk  

Hi All, Can anyone help me with finding the size of the deck screws for mounting the coil? I want to replace them with grub screws but have no idea what size to purchase. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks  

I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...

I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.

I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.

What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...  

Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up  

Not sure where to post this, but some pods have bad spit back. I'm trying to make the switch back. I slipped when my mother died in April(was vaping only for 4-5yr's before that). The device itself was 99cent's at a local store so I grabbed 3 of them. The pods have been so random tho 3/6 where fine in 1 flavor. 2/2 where fine in another, the 3rd flavor was 0/2. Was wonder if other's where having this issue maybe switch to Juul? Before I can get back from mtl to dl with my other mods/rda's/juice.