Was Going To Happen Sooner Or Later.

Got home from work and was stoked to see a package from seven vapes containing my smpl clone and derringer rda clone. What a clean compact combo. Did a five wrap 24 gauge which read .31 on meter. Loving the results. I've been slipping up and smoking cigs the past few days. All 7 roommates (live in a recovery house) smoke so the temptation is real. I think this one will finally get me off the sticks. One can only hope  

over the past month or so i have gradually moved into RDAs as opposed to RTAs/Cartos. most of my builds typically come out anywhere between .24-.45 ohm, dual coils. i bounce back and forth between my SMPL mech mod and my ipv mini II.

on the ipv mini II i'll take anywhere between 4-8 pulls between 30-50 watts when i get a "too hot!" message on the display. this has happened to me about 8-10 times already over the past two weeks or so. has anyone else with this device, or one similar, have this happen before?

on the SMPL mech mod i notice the top of the mod and the atty getting hot pretty darn quick when i have something like a .34/.37 ohm build on it. once it gets hot like that i just stop because obviously i don't want it to blow up in my face.

i only use 24-28gKA1 as of right since its all i have. i'm waiting on a shipment of some n80 though, hear some good things about that wire.

being 100% honest i am looking for the bigger clouds with good flavor. i did some searching around on here and found some decent stuff that is helping me figure everything out.

anyone got any ideas on the routes i should take to avoid this over heating and being able to get good dense clouds?

edit: i use sony vtc4's and vappower 2500mah 35amp batteries which i bought from vapehappy.  

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

I'm building a dual parallel 26g, on a 2.4mm screwdriver 5 wraps in the mutation x v3. Everything looks fine, one coil looks better than the other but still fuctional. I pre fire the coils to make them glow from inside out and they do. I put it on the hana mod and it reads out "shorted". I currently dont have a ohm reader which I should have gotten one long time ago before sub ohming but I depends on the box mods. Anyways anyone have any clue what might be or is the hana trippin? I get hot button on the smpl mod clone but I'm guessing its cus I was ore firing to get it to burn right (without cotton)  

Anyone else had a negative experience?
I ordered a Mutant copper mod...
Mutant Copper Mod

This is what I ordered:


This is what I got:




I have been trying to contact them for two days, via their website, FB, and email...
It's like some guy just dropped his old mod in the box and...I dunno, tough luck?  

I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.

I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"


Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.

Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?


Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.


Help! :/  

DSC_0137_resize by Papillon61 posted May 31, 2015 at 3:30 PM


This could have been my face this morning - luckily it was my thigh! I'm still shaking. Also luckily I was wearing thick cotton slacks - don't know what would have happened if I had been wearing something synthetic because there was fire.


DSC_0128_resize by Papillon61 posted May 31, 2015 at 3:28 PM


This is the result of what I suppose you would call venting of and IMR supposedly perfectly good Efest battery which exploded inside my SMPL mech mod. This was a battery I had been happily using for the past 10 days or so on a mod that I received yesterday and which worked perfectly fine all day yesterday using the same battery or its twin since I got a pack of two.

This is the state of my desk right after the explosion.

I'm having trouble adding pictures but there are more.... I need to figure it out and I'll be back.  

So I dropped my mod yesterday right on it's ... and the button is stuck. Any suggestions on how to get it firing smoothly again?  

I have an eleaf 50 w with a horizon tech arctic tank. The tank seemes like it is bent to the right. I havent dropped it or anything. in the pic it looks like it is bent to the right. Is it normal for the tank to lean to the right on eleaf like this?  

So I ordered an e-Pipe 628 from China, and it worked for a day, but now I can't get the coil to fire. The distributor offered to take it back, but maybe someone can help me figure out what's wrong with it, so I don't have to go through the hassle of wrapping it up and shipping it back overseas (at my expense).
Anyway, it's fully charged, and I definitely know how to work it, but when I connect the bowl to the cartomizer and push the button, nothing happens. I took the bowl apart and looked for a loose wire, but everything appeared to be in working order. I've also tried all three cartomizers, and none of them work anymore. (They all worked the first day.) I'm pretty sure the battery's center pin is making a connection with the cartomizer. I even pulled the center pin of one of the cartomizers out a little bit to make sure. Is there anything else I'm missing? My daughter swears she didn't drop it when I let her use it. This is so frustrating! I can figure out pretty much anything by fiddling with it long enough, yet this thing is giving me heck! I've been at it for over a week now.