Just got this SX 350 mini M. It's been working beautifully sans a few issues that I am sure are user induced.
First off I will tell you that the Lemo 2 that came in at the same time is Freaking awesome. I have a Kanger Sub Lemo drop and now the Lemo 2. The Lemo 2 kicks *** I the airflow department. It's robust and easy as hell to fill. I put a 3mm coil in it and pancaked the wick. 9 wraps and it's coming in at .118 ohms. Awesome flavor production and nice thick vapor.
So I moved on to the Tugboat to see how Ni200 fairs in the RDA world on this particular device. I went bananas with my coil and ended up with this monstrosity.
I twisted two strands of 28g Ni200 together with a drill and wrapped it 17 times. It comes in at .06 ohms. Performance wise it takes a while to ramp up but when it does it produces thick vapor but towards the hot side. Another thing is that the drip too gets hot really quickly. I'm running it 50J and have the temp cut off at 425F. The hot drip tip is one of the issues I mentioned. I vaped this thing bone dry and didn't get any burnt taste.
Then I moved on to the Lemo drop. The manual had an interesting coil method reccomended so I decided to go for it.
This one I wrapped about 10 times on a 3mm driver. Stuffed a small amount of additional cotton down inside like the manual suggested. The problem is that it gets stupid hot (the drop tip) stupid fast. I'm running it at 17J because this one is coming in at .365 ohms.
Short story long the device itself is working great. I just need to find the sweet spot with this Ni200 coil wise. Any tips in that department would be greatly appreciated.
At the end of it all the LEMO 2 and the Mini M seem like they were made for one another.
So....my lemo was my #1 RTA, until I got the subtank mini and delta 2 (although I haven't tried the delta 2 yet, but have heard very good things about it). I have been sad, because I have put my lemo to the side, because my newer RTAs have more airflow. I would vape my lemo most of the time between 25-30 watts, and could get it up to about 38 watts without a dry/burnt hit. Anything over 40 would give me a dry/burnt hit, which is still impressive. (with my old wicking method)
Long story short, I decided to drill out my airholes on my lemo. I found another guy that had already done this, so I followed his bit sizes. He claims that he now vapes his lemo around 70-80 watts without dry/burnt hits. I had my wisdom teeth out about 3 days ago, so I can not vape as I usually do (in fear of getting a dry socket) so I have had to barely hit my tanks to vape. I hit the lemo, after modding it, last night, at 40 watts with a wussy vape and no dry/burnt hit at all. I can't wait to actually vape like I usually do and see how high in wattage I can go. By the way, I am trying something new and using Drip Trippers pancake wicking method on this as well, and a 0.78 build.
So here are the pics, with the sizes, if anyone wants to do this. It took me about 15 minutes:
4 External air holes (pic 1) - 3/32 drill bit
Vertical stem shaft air hole (pic 2) - 1/8 drill bit
Vertical stem 4 air holes (pic 3) - 3/32 drill bit
Pancake wicking method.
Anybody have one yet? https://www.eleafus.com/image/cache...-Drop-Atomizer/lemo-drop-atomizer-600x600.png ,
I'm ready to upgrade from Protank and EGO bat. Was ready to pull trigger on Kayfun Nano and a Mech. Then I find this. I hear the Lemo is better than the Kayfun, But I don't want a 5ml tank. I want between 2 and 3 ml. I'm not after chasing clouds. I am out to vaporize a little bit of nicotine, instead of smoking a Marlboro. I figure I can get a little bit better Flavor, and a more consistant enjoyable vape, Than a EGO-T1100mah and Mini PT3 tank.
I'm tired of hitting the 10sec cut off time and still craving more vapor (per hit).
(Rather than just taking another hit) I want to maximize the amount of vapor per second per hit to achieve this.
I have my lemo tank opened up all the way which allows for maximum airflow.
Is it true that more wraps (on my coil build) would create more vapor since it's more surface area of saturated wick?
That coupled with more wattage would burn it hotter, also creating more vapor.
And using a gauge like 24 would help keep the ohms down, which in turn would allow for faster coil heat up time/temp to produce vapor quicker to maximize vapor per second?
Please let me know if these steps will yield more vapor per second or just send me on a different direction / adjust my ideas to allow me to obtain my desire.
Thanks ECF!
Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank
I have recently purchased a DNA 40 device and feel like I have lost all my build knowledge!! I am using awg 28 wire if I do 10 wraps on a 2.5mm drill bit I get a reading of around .13 on any of my devices if I replicate the build on the Lemo it comes out .27 or above. What is going on can someone share any light on this?
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Hey guys,
Just wanna drop in and say I ordered a Lemo2 to try my hand at rebuilding. It come with a coil and wick at .5ohm already in place. This thing really works awesome... tons of flavor and vapor and can even MtL hit if I dial down the air almost all the way. I do have two hopefully easy questions I'm sure someone knows the answer to...
How high of wattage can you push these or any handmade coil to? Also when you wick a new one, since it doesn't come with much info on it, how do you know if you're putting too much cotton in, and is there a trick to get the cotton right where it needs to be in that little wicking channel from the tank to where the coil is so the juice gets absorbed quickly and properly but without flooding it?
TIA and I know I'm know pro sub-ohmer by any means lol but for someone thinking about one this tank really works awesome.
Ok I upgraded from an evod 2 to an Istick 50 with the lemo ll today and built my first coil and wick coil came out at 1.9 ohms and I'm using organic japanese cotton been vaping on it for a few hours now and I'm getting a sore throat never got a sore throat from the evod 2 any ideas why this is happening?
Hey everyone, I just wanted to post my setup here, nothing to fancy so just take a quick look and feel free to leave a comment or reply.
To kick things off I've got a Seeker Mech Mod by EHPRO. It's a sleek design, all copper, and easy to press button. Little short and thick for those of us who like our setups to look beefy.
Atty- The Tobh Atty. It is a pain in the butt to take apart from the get go but once you get a bit of juice on all the O rings it comes apart fairly easy. Good deck to build on all pre-drilled holes on the three posts 1(+) and 2(-) (Obviously). Deep basin to hold plenty of juice for our drip and drivers safety. My current build is a dual single coil coming in at 0.28 ohms. Using a regular cotton wick.
Juice- "Bliss" made by The Artisan Vapor 100%VG This juice is an explosive flavor of fruits, and for being 100%VG it has a heavy flavor. 39ml bottle runs at 20$ not to bad for a good juice. When I drip with a full basin it lasts roughly an hour, and I heavily use my vape.
Battery- This thing is one of the best right now but I'm still limited on what builds I can do. My 0.28 is safe, however my 0.22 is unsafe (Go figure) ANYWAYS! (Specs) MNKE IMR-26650 3.7(low) 4.2(High) 3500mAh.
So I think that's all. Thanks for reading guess, and questions or comments just drop it down below. Goodbye and VAPE ON!
I am trying to get the best flavor with the best single coil build.
Objectives:
Flavor
Smooth Vapor
Materials:
Kanthal Wire
35mg Nic Salts
I have noticed that either depending on the diameter of the coil or the spacing of the coil wraps You get a different kind of vape hit. It seems like higher gauge wire produces a smoother hit. And then couple that with a small diameter coil build, plus squishing the coil together to remove all coil spacing results in the smoothest possible vapor.
Can anyone confirm my findings? Or does anyone have any tips because I have still to replicate the smooth hit from clearomizer sub tank cartridge's that are non mesh. I am starting to think this is because the cotton is wrapped around the outside of the coil instead of being shoelace through the middle of the coil.
So I got my Lemo 2 yesterday and there is something wrong with it . The taste is awful . I boiled the crap out of it yesterday but that didnt change much .
Basically I get bad taste even if my cotton is oversaturated with juice which leads me to the conclusion that this taste is coming from the tank itself . I checked everything its fine , the pressure is also fine . That bad taste is a mix between a dry hit and plastic taste but agian , taste doesnt change even if I full my entire chimney with juice so it is not the whisking . ]
Has anyone had similar problems or any ideas ?