Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.
Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.
People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.
I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.
I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.
I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!
So I"m thinking about getting a MELO tank so that i can have something for driving and being out and about. I have 2 big questions. 1) It says that the wicking material in the pre- built coils is something called 'glass fiber cotton"......what on earth is that? Surely to goodness they aren't using actual fiberglass but does this stuff actually contain glass? 2). It looks like a very well made piece. Does anyone know if it is 100% stainless steel (especially the chimney assembly and the coil) or is it that plated brass that will flake?
Tried most products for brass, The diamondbrite is doing it for me cleanse well with no smell, plus removing the smell of brass.
All the videos on the KBOX complained about the irritating threads (like fingernails on a chalkboard) for the battery compartment, so I lubed mine when I got it with the lube I use for my flashlight's threads - SuperLube, and it's been great! Very smooth, feels very good to unscrew/screw.
Just wondering if others do this, and if it's bad to do for some reason. If it's not bad (like flashlights), then I highly recommend doing it! Make a HUGE difference in usability and enjoyment!
I really like the look of the copper mod (variable wattage mod) and saw the KSD Kmax at the reasonable price, but saw bad review with PBusardo. Does anyone know any other variable wattage mod that is copper/bronze/brass?
Thanks.
Hi,
Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.
You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal
The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)
A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.
it works, I Gar-on-tee it.
Hello everyone. I have a problem. I'm gonna need some help to get through this, I may not even make it. Who knows?
I'm addicted. Not the good kind. The kind that costs money... The kind that makes my long hours at work perish with the swipe of my debit card... I'm addicted to.. Upgrading.
So I'm in need some some help from the best of the best with you guys. I'm looking to upgrade! I'm currently looking into going from my istick50w and Subtank Mini, to a mech mod and rda. I'm gonna start my way with single coil builds, and go up to dual. I am thinking I have about $100 I want to work with, so can someone make some recommendations?!
I already have some cotton and kanthal from my rba with the subtank. I'm just looking for a good starter mech and battery set up, with a pretty decent rda. Now, since this is my first, I'm not biased at all against clones. I welcome them! As long as they are decent quality and get the job done, so be it!
But here's one catch: I don't really like shiny stuff, oddly enough. I mean brass, or really shiny silver. I don't like scratches that stuff seem to get in my pocket. I love stuff to look perfect all the time!
So any help or recommendations are greatly appreciated! I have no idea about batteries or their chargers, but I'm more than willing to educate myself.
So i think ive stripped the threads on my iStick 50w, my tank seems to cross thread all the time and it doesnt screw on first time all the time.
Can i get replacements or have i ballsed my istick up?
Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?
I was just wondering if anyone has had any luck clear coating their brass and copper mods with spar urethane.
I was going to try a polyurethane clear coat but I've seen too many mods that would still patina beneath the clear coat. I don't want that happening to any of my mods. Today I picked up a can of Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane and so far I have only coated the top cap and the exterior of the firing button on my 4Nine mod. I figured I would test it on this mod first since it's my least liked mod. It's still to soon to tell if it's going to patina beneath the coating.
If anyone has experience on clear coating mods pls let me know what products work the best.
So, here's the deal. My new mod was delivered today. I knew it had a fixed stainless 510 connector, but I wasn't worried. Anyway, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but the tank keeps coming loose on the mod. I know I am probably not cranking it down tight enough, but I am afraid of going too tight and screwing up the threads.
So, I am looking for an adaptor that has a spring loaded pin on both sides. Spring loaded on the battery side and spring loaded on the atty side. Is there such a thing? I would also prefer that this is 22mm wide. Any ideas?