Stripped Pin On Sigelie 100w?

Hey so if I took out the silver plated pin on my mutation x and put it on my mutilator would it work the same or would it work a little better? The one on my mutilator is copper so yeah haha  

I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.

I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"


Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.

Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?


Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.


Help! :/  

Anyone else had a negative experience?
I ordered a Mutant copper mod...
Mutant Copper Mod

This is what I ordered:


This is what I got:




I have been trying to contact them for two days, via their website, FB, and email...
It's like some guy just dropped his old mod in the box and...I dunno, tough luck?  

So I took a puff and I herd a slight ringing humming noise so I put my ear to it and it is making that noise I thought it might have been something else but what is that is that bad? It seams to only do it when I take a puff and it starts to fade away after like 20 seconds? Thanks guys!  

I recently bought the Forge v2 by MCV Philippines and really love it. It's the copper version and looks great on my Kingpin. I also bought the MCV Philippines Elite drip tip to go on it. It's actually 2 tips in one(a copper and brass that can be stacked). Anyway, it won't fit on my Forge 2 because the post screws are too tall. The tip is a wide bore, and the 510 adapter that came with the RDA is shorter and doesn't make contact with the screws.

When I take the PH screws out, the Elite drip tip fits fine. I figured I would just add some of my extra Allen Hex grub screws(which I put on all my RDAs if possible), but the screws in the MCV Philippines RDAs are one size smaller than most RDA post screws. I believe they are size 3 (#46 / 3-56). I'm guessing they are Fine coarse.

Does anyone know a site that sells screws like this? I've tried searching Google, but didn't really find anything relevant.


Thanks  

I bought a sigelie 150w recently and it was a deal where it comes with two batteries, I wanna know if these are good batteries.

they are yellow and all it says on it is "LGDBHE41865" are these good batteries to use for my sigelie 150w?  

I really like the look of the copper mod (variable wattage mod) and saw the KSD Kmax at the reasonable price, but saw bad review with PBusardo. Does anyone know any other variable wattage mod that is copper/bronze/brass?
Thanks.  

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

What's the difference between 504 and 304 stainless steel? And how does it effect vaping? It seems like those are the 2 that rdas are made out of most I think but yeah thanks!  

Hello guys,
I recently purchased a single coil RTA, my first rebuildable experience. I love it!! .
I saw at the shop a double coil RTA and a Double coil RDA, was planning on buying one of them until I thought I only have a 100W mod. Do you guys think it is enough? Are there some specific ohms coils that could make it work etc? Or is a 100W enough? I am new to this so calculating ohms law and all the other stuff I will learn, I just need a answer from the double coilers if you guys use higher wattage mods or not.
Thank you in advance!