Sigelei 150w And Derringer Ohm Jumping Issue.

I got my first Derringer today. Wanted to try it immediately although I bought it with the DAY AFTER (May 2106) in mind... but you know how it goes, you get a new toy and you want to try it out.

I'm really not into very low ohms so first I went for a single coil - 26 AWG Kanthal, 9 wraps for around 1.3 ohms. But I didn't like the way that could be wicked in an rda. So then I put in two 28 guage coils which I had previously coiled for my other atties. Together they gave me .8 ohms which is sort of ok. But I still am not quite happy with the wicking. These coils are 2mm internal diameter and there's not a lot of cotton you can put in there. The taste is good but my wicking is nowhere as fat as I see in some pics online.

Any advice?  

Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts


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Everything on atties is secure.. tried several different atomizers & having same issue. Even put a iclear 30 on there & same thing is happening. Help? :/ this is very frustrating  

Right now I have a few box mods, the IPv3, SIG 150w and the Snow wolf 200w. I'm using the Snow wolf 200w and honestly I'm not happy with it. I've had the button stick a few times causing it to auto fire and I'm noticing an almost one second delay from when I hit the fire button to when an actual vape starts to kick in (very slow fire up time, and I'm only running dual twisted 26g) on top of that I really dislike that I have to hit the fire button to see how much volts I'm using. I know the SX M class is one of the best out right now, but the fact it's a single battery concerns me because I typically vape between .12-.20 ohms and usually 60-80w (but since getting the derringer it's been 60). I really like the hot, dense flavorful vapes and I wanna make sure if I get the SX M class it'll be able to deliver that.  

hi all
I have a mvp 3 and I use iclear 30 tanks 1.9 to 2.1 ohms
im vapeing at 12 watts 5.1 volts and have been for a few weeks now
everything was fine until today right now in fact hence the reason for this question
I refilled my tank and screwed it back on my mvp when I pressed the button to vape
it reads the ohms and volts and wattage the wattage was as normal 12 watts
the volts were 7.1 and the ohms were 6.0 totally unvapable and burnt tasting
(I should also point out that the volts and watts are locked in on the mvp)
I have also tried the tanks on other devices and still the same issue
which leads me to believe its the tanks at fault and not the device
I have been vapeing long enough to understand the reasons for burnt taste
and the causes and solutions to rectify it but I have never had this happen before
I tried other tanks and the same has happened except for one which works fine
does anyone have any idea whats going on
thanks
steve  

I searched long and hard for my perfect vape...and I sort of found it. I have a REO with an RM2, a dual 18650 mech, and now a SMPL mod. I also have a derringer, MXv3, hobo, and magma. I've been using the REO and drippers almost exclusively with the exception of my "morning vape" in an EVOD/eGo combo. I tried using my subtanks on my VF clone the other day and just can't seem to dial them in to taste good anymore. I either fry a coil or the juice that use to taste good in them doesn't anymore (or I can't find the sweet spot). I'm using the 0.5ohm coils in the subtanks. I run anywhere between 0.5 and 1.2 ohms in my drippers with 26g or 28g.
Did anyone else run into this problem or is it just me?


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So I've been using a Kayfun v4 and provari p3 using the hybrid connector and have never been able to get th ohms below 2 using .2mm guage kanthal bought from Vape escape one 2 mm coiling tool and about 6 wraps was initially happy with that but after reading the results other users are having they typically end up around 1.2 1.4 ohms using far more wraps then I have been using I tried to increase my coil diameter to 2.5 mm and the ohms exploded to 5 ohms making it unusable I have noticed that my spring in the Kayfun gets incredibly dirty and charred with what I can describe only as soot if anyone has any insights into what could be going on I would much appreciate it ive been enjoying my Kayfun but I'm still looking for that mind blowing Vape I keep reading about  

So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.

I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.

The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?  

I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...

Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??

By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...  

Hey all, I've been vaping for 3 months. I DIY and I have been using the same flavors, vg, pg and nicotine and I have never had a problem. But the last few days I have been getting a tight chest and it hurts and makes me cough when I inhale? At first I thought it was the custard, but it is happening with fruits too. So I am wondering if my current build in my RDA could be the problem? It's a simple single coil build 10 wraps for 1.5 ohms and I usually run it at 4.7volts. Couls someone give me some insight into this? is it possible my build has a short that I am not aware of? ohms are not jumping and it heats evenly. So I don't know.

Please help! Ive invest a lot of money into vaping and I dont want to stop.