Just look at this pic :
I will probably do that to mine too . Im pretty sure this is will be better than the orig RBA . So why do you think RTAs dont have that , RTAs like the Subtank , Lemo , Orchid etc. , even kayfuns ?
I'm a bit lazy with my re-wicking. Especially RTAs. Usually leave it until it's a bit past due.
I'd be interested to know how many of you have a timetable for changing wicks or do you just base it on flavour or maybe the number of refills of the tank or squonk bottle?
Do you do it in batches of attys or one at a time when needed?
So....my lemo was my #1 RTA, until I got the subtank mini and delta 2 (although I haven't tried the delta 2 yet, but have heard very good things about it). I have been sad, because I have put my lemo to the side, because my newer RTAs have more airflow. I would vape my lemo most of the time between 25-30 watts, and could get it up to about 38 watts without a dry/burnt hit. Anything over 40 would give me a dry/burnt hit, which is still impressive. (with my old wicking method)
Long story short, I decided to drill out my airholes on my lemo. I found another guy that had already done this, so I followed his bit sizes. He claims that he now vapes his lemo around 70-80 watts without dry/burnt hits. I had my wisdom teeth out about 3 days ago, so I can not vape as I usually do (in fear of getting a dry socket) so I have had to barely hit my tanks to vape. I hit the lemo, after modding it, last night, at 40 watts with a wussy vape and no dry/burnt hit at all. I can't wait to actually vape like I usually do and see how high in wattage I can go. By the way, I am trying something new and using Drip Trippers pancake wicking method on this as well, and a 0.78 build.
So here are the pics, with the sizes, if anyone wants to do this. It took me about 15 minutes:
4 External air holes (pic 1) - 3/32 drill bit
Vertical stem shaft air hole (pic 2) - 1/8 drill bit
Vertical stem 4 air holes (pic 3) - 3/32 drill bit
Pancake wicking method.
I keep my vaping storage area pretty cool during the winter, like low 60's F. I find getting the PG ratio and wicking just right is a big headache. I've started using a desktop heater to warm up my mod and tank.
I am curious if anyone else has tried this? I find it's been a tremendous help, especially if you don't want to use high PG.
One thing I notice though is with RTAs with the tank above the build deck, if you get it too close to the heater, juice pours out the airflow, so you have to be careful with that. I think it has to do with air pressure increasing in the tank as it heats up.
my little rta now is leaking sometimes after loving them for 4-6 months.went back to the taller older rtas for now.first day now and it feels like i'm back with a 100 and want a filter king. do yo have any size preference?
Anybody out there have one of these Zephyrus tanks and care to share their opinion?
I want to upgrade from my subtank and was going to get a lemo 2 but than i saw these. It's still pretty new and there doesn't seem to be much info/reviews about it yet. I really like that you can use factory coil heads or the rba and the price is pretty good (averaging $30).
After May 12th 2020 when most vape products will become illegal, does anyone think fasttech.com will still ship to us? I have somewhat of a stash mechs rdas rtas etc im just curious. If its a dumb question im sorry
6 months ago, I finally tried squonking.
The result?
6 months later:
My RTAs are crying. My regulated mods are sulking. I now have more bf RDAs than my local vape shop
You've been warned
Hello,
So I have been using 2 kayfun tobecco clones V4 I really like them but do have the issue of juice control ring getting stuck at times and though I have gotten to the point when it only happens once in while due to i lube the inside of the base with eliquid everytime i rewick. anyway i just purchased a Kanger Subtank mini and i do really like it a lot It is so much easier to rewick Oh yes I am using the RBA section and i dont have to worry about anything getting stuck my only compliant is that it is so noisy makes it very hard to stealth vape at work
So I am torn I like the easier rewicking of the subtank but am i just hung up on The Kayfun Being the best
any thoughts to help me sort this out having a hard time letting go of the kayfuns but love the subtank
For most atties, are the 510 center pins the same? Actually, I asking about rebuildables like RTAs. Same length, diameter, threads, ect? Can you even get replacements? I need some that "protrude" more from the 510 connetor. I know, someone suggested just adding a tiny or-ring but I don't trust that would be strong enough.
My English not good but hope u guys understand....
I have question...I am gonna talk about rtas....soooo we got the air flow part of the tank when is the coil and that we suck air through it...and there is the juice part where holds the juice....and thing that seal the 2 spaces is the cotton....the juice reaches to the coil throught this capillary action I guess...I was thinking tho while we suck don't we create also vacuum and draw more juice if the airflow can't keep up with our draw?? And if that's correct then...this space that holds the juice should be sealed good so that it can't draw air lets say for example from the top fill cap and then push more juice into the coil cause it will have the atmospheric pressure?? Or maybe it's the opposite and the vacuum we create while we puff should get lose over time while we don't vape??? I am trying to get more understanding about how stuff works hope makes sense and someone can correct my mistakes and make things clear for me