I have a cherry bomber box mod. I love the thing, only gripe is the bloody button! I swapped the spring and put some magnets in it. It still has that loose feel to it l, is there any way to corrects this problem?
I received my MCV Cherry Bomber box mod, it needed a good polishing and some added character. Jessica Rabbit has always been my favorite female cartoon character so decided to pay tribute to her. God I love red heads!
I have a cherry bomber box mod. It wont fire does anyone have any ideas why it wont fire ?
Ok, so I don't "need", but all +6 month vapers reading a vape post on a vape forum know the deal. I want!! Istick 30w with aspire nautilus - pub covered. Same istick with Kanger nano - on the go cloud blast covered. 2Xrda and mech mod - flavour and sofa clouds sorted.
The question: To all you mod and tank collectors, what next? I'm thinking a +50w pv with an rba. Eg. Smok m80 pro plus and Lemo drip. looking for lung hits only and both mod and tank for sub £100. Or should I wait for temperature control to be perfected. Or should I just buy a Cherry Bomber and another cool mech + batts and stay old school. Ahhhhhhh.
OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.
I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.
I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.
I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.
Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.
Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.
Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.
What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.
This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.
The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.
Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.
Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!
So, here's the deal. My new mod was delivered today. I knew it had a fixed stainless 510 connector, but I wasn't worried. Anyway, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but the tank keeps coming loose on the mod. I know I am probably not cranking it down tight enough, but I am afraid of going too tight and screwing up the threads.
So, I am looking for an adaptor that has a spring loaded pin on both sides. Spring loaded on the battery side and spring loaded on the atty side. Is there such a thing? I would also prefer that this is 22mm wide. Any ideas?
Hi
I got myself second Caliburn and from the start I feel that auto firing is not as fast as my first one, just like a second or so behind. If I use the button it seems to be OK.
Also, it feels more airy. I check the same pod on both devices and first one seems to have a bit more restrictive airflow. Or, due to late auto firing, I am inhaling first clean air instead of vape, and thus, the feeling of less restrictive airflow.
And lastly, which is not a problem, but it is not feeling OK, second Caliburn pod latching thing feels more loose, where on the first, when I push pod into the slot, I can feel and hear distinctive click, on the second, just a very little bump and very shallow click.
Would first, auto fire delay constitute good grounds for warranty replacement? I got it less than a week ago.
Any thoughts?
Not sure if this is the right place to post this. Received a silver istick 50 yesterday and a black one today. The black one is good but the silver one will stick if the button is pushed on the bottom part of the button and it'll keep fireing since its stuck. I can get it to release by manipulating the button. Is that something the company will take care of??? I do like the battery!
Thanks
Chris
dropped my SMPL clone. got dinged up pretty bad. tried to fix it, but it's bent out of shape. copper so figure. the button was not backing out all the way. fixed to a point where the button is functioning, but don't feel all that safe. ordered a new one. i like SMPL a lot. looks very plain jane, but works like a champ.
Any and all sugestions r welcome
So I’ve been vaping for around 7-8 years and in all that time I’ve never broken the glass on any of my tanks even though they have all been dropped several times on many different surfaces. Well that all changed today when I dropped the bulb glass on my Uforce T2 while cleaning it during a coil change. Sadly I only have one and the extra is a straight wall glass that reduces the capacity. So I’ve ordered a three pack of bulb glass in case it happens again. I haven’t started a thread in awhile and thought this was the perfect subject to share with my fellow vapers. My diary entry says...”Today I became a man” I know it’s kinda B.S. that in order for us guys to be considered a man in today’s society we cannot have an intact cherry. I don’t make the rules, I just follow them, and although I don’t agree completely, I do feel a little different afterwards. Dare I say, more like a man. Anyway for you ladies thinking of breaking your first glass tank, here is some musical inspiration courtesy of Neil Diamond.
This is what happens when I’ve been locked up in my house for too long, scared of the world around me. Things get weird man...
Cabin fever