Lubing Your Threads??

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.

People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.

I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.

I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.

I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!  

Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up  

Why are there endless threads about them breaking. Centerpost spinning, shoddy millwork, peeling metals, bad screws, bad threads, janky 510's, bad rubber, broken insulators. The list is endless. I think the one thing everyone agrees on is that they are CHEAP.  

Hi all, just got home from work and my new Orchid V4 was here waiting on me.
Kinda excited ok, thing is I started building coils for it using 28g wire.
Here the problem, I cant seem to loosen up the four screws on the post.
Are these normal threads or reverse threads?
Cant install new coils till I can loosen up those freaking screws lol.

Thanks, normally I never have such problems.

Jim  

Hi,

Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.

You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal

The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)

A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.

it works, I Gar-on-tee it.


 

Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?  

Hey, i just wanted to say how helpful old threads are. I've been looking everywhere for grub screws for my Zeus X rta. 2 mins on here and found them in a 2 year old thread. Thanks ECF and members problem solved  

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

Don't know if this is out there but I used a magic eraser on the grimy black threads of the 510 on my KF clone and it really cleaned them right up . without any worry of damaging the threads.  

All of the sudden I wake up today and notice my 510 threading on my sigelei 50w box mod is jacked up. I cleaned the threads on my subtank mini and on my sigelei mod. I then tried screwing it onto my mod and now no matter what I try , there's a gap between the top of the mod and the bottom of the subtank (it's not screwing down all the way and has about a 3mm gap, hence now it won't fire...

I screwed my subtank onto my ileaf 30w and screws in flawlessly, so it's the sigelei threads ...

but I did pay a lot for my sigelei and prefer its hits , I dunno, I usually Vape about 16W on my sigelei And not sure how that translates over to what wattage I should run the eleaf at ?

Also, I just noticed that my spare RDAs will still screw onto my sigelei well..I'm so confused what's up !!!!