Three squared off outer shells give this RDA its rhomboid look and also provide airflow control through the rotation of the center piece around four magnetic stop points. The inner body is cylindrical, with an air ported top cap sitting on a 3 post deck, and a copper adjustable 510 center pin.
Bit a a novelty item perhaps.
I just watched a review for this new RDA, and I'm very interested. Has anyone used/bought one yet? RT had issues with the o-rings failing which a cause for concern, but other than that it looks awesome. Lots and lots of airflow options.
Manufactured by Sparkle Technology which appears to the 'authentic' subdivision of Infinite, a well known producer of quality clones.
Features:
12 different adjustable airflow combinations.
22mm diameter.
Copper adjustable 510 connector.
PEEK internal AFC rings and base for optimal thermal regulation.
Engineered to create a vortex inside the chamber.
303 grade stainless steel.
Solid three post setup for durability on dual or single coil builds.
Posts are squared for even better reliability.
i found rust in center post of one of my attys, is it dangerous???
can be it used again?
so i have a COV ARIS atty that i bought about a year ago. i took it apart to try to increase the airflow, but got sidetracked on that project and put it on the back burner. Fast forward 6 months and i go to start the project again but i had lost the insulator to seperate the center post from the atty body. i tried contacting COV with no luck. Anyone have any ideas on where i could get an insulator for this? or if i could possibly make one?
thanks in advance
-Matt
A couple days ago I met a guy at a party, and everytime he would take a hit of his mod it would make this whirring sound. Turns out he just picked up the new Turbo RDA by Tobeco which was designed by their USA Team "Ohm Nation". I have to say it is very innovative. I have never seen anything like it so of course I asked him the name and where he purchased it from. I finally got my hands on one and its a great RDA with the proper build. The whole design of it is a B+ the reason for that is...the airflow control (which is the upper piece and where the fan is mounted) is made out of plastic which is a big downside because once you get your coils fired up, the plastic SLOWLY begins to met and in my case, melted in peices of the wick. Other than that, the post are wide so it can accommodate lower gauge wires. The posts are also milled into the deck to prevent the posts from spinning and they also give you a super wide bore glass drip tip. Its also constructed out of 304 stainless steel. Overall, i am pretty happy with it and one of the builds that i believe best suits this is 20g Nichrome 5 Wraps. Its super hot, the fan definitely gets put to work and you're getting a lot vapor production.
It is definitely stands out on design and is DIFFERENT to what we usually see out there which I do love about this RDA. It's great that companies are getting creative and trying new things with the products they are creating. I do hope they revisit this and make the next one with a stainless steel airflow control. Other than that, wow.
Hello all I’m new here, but I occasionally do read post for help . Anyway I tired to pull the center pin on my morph 2 230w and I accidentally ripped the top pin off . Can this be fixed ? Atomizer can still read it,but I don’t trust that . Any help is good, thanks all
I am just wondering what cordless drill everyone uses to build their advanced coils?
I am looking online at pictures, and it looks like a lot of the drill chucks don't fully 'spin' down to where they touch each other, which potentially means it wouldn't hold thin wire in the center of the chuck.
Aside from the chuck being able to hold thin wire in the center, I am wondering what drill is good in terms of trigger, speed control adjustments, and being able to easily control the speed of the drill!
Pics and model/manufacturer appreciated!
Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?
Im looking for side airflow coil placement recommendation which one is the best
Center Upper or lower? For flavor of course.
For most atties, are the 510 center pins the same? Actually, I asking about rebuildables like RTAs. Same length, diameter, threads, ect? Can you even get replacements? I need some that "protrude" more from the 510 connetor. I know, someone suggested just adding a tiny or-ring but I don't trust that would be strong enough.
Got no idea what this thing falls into...
The MechLyfe Ratel 80W (8.5V). It uses an external 18650 battery and it uses an RTA build deck. I’m not sure if you can use pre-made coils for it though. You can use it in both DTL and MTL but with MTL it’s loose draw. You can’t adjust the airflow on the fly, you have to take the panels off to make the airflow adjustments.
The build deck looks nice and simple to build on. You might get away with fitting in an alien coil.