Hypertank V2 Won't Screw On To My Mvp 2

I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...

I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.

I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.

What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...  

Hey all,

So, I've been really happy with my new setup (iStick 50w and 30w, Nautilus and Mini Nautilus). Everything has been working smoothly, but I have a problem with the replacement coils I purchased (and cannot return).

Went to go change out the coil in one of my tanks this evening. Filled the tank up as usual, made sure the air shaft and drip tip were clean, screwed on my new coil, filled the tank, and let it sit and wick up for half an hour. Took some pulls without firing, dropped it to 8w (to "step up" and prime the new coil), and immediately got a nasty burnt hit that I can still taste an hour later. Unscrewed the tank to see what was wrong, and noticed the wicking material was bone dry.

For the longest time, I could not figure out what happened, why it wasn't wicking...until I looked closer. The e-liquid holes on the replacement coil I have are TINY! The coils that came with the tanks have holes that are at least twice, maybe three times the diameter. The holes are so small that my e-liquid will not even enter them to soak the wicking material. I checked the serial number scratch off on Aspire's site and both boxes of replacement coils I have came up as authentic.

I'm displeased. $22 down the drain, now I have to rush and find a dealer who has the "correct" coils. I cannot use these coils whatsoever, and the dealer I purchased from does not accepted returns on atomizers.



On the left is the coil that came with the tank (both of my tanks came with this exact same coil, and two replacements that look exactly like it, but I've used them up and am on the new ones). On the right, the coil I purchased in a replacement pack of 5. You can see they look nearly identical, except for the size of the wicking holes. Also, the piece at the bottom seems a bit more flimsy, as you can see in the picture, it's not exactly straight with the rest of the atomizer.

So, can anyone point me to a dealer that has the coils I need? I'm afraid of ordering from somewhere and getting the ones on the right, which are useless and do not soak up any e-liquid whatsoever.  

Well decided to bite the bullet and get the istick 50w and the Atlantis 2, so far so good I got it off a Canadian website both for 120 and received it the next day! Gotta say the Atlantis 2 is our of control lol nothing compared to my aerotank mega put about 20 ml through it so far and not a single dry hit, seems to eat through juice like crazy tho lol and maybe just a little too much air flow for my liking but I'm sure I'll grow to these things but as they are kind of new their still a little weird for me, anyone else run this setup? Any tips or tricks for me? I noticed to get the maximum amount of liquid in it I screw the coil into the tank fill it right full then screw the bottom part on works well  

So I got the vapesnail in today and I put a build on it...test fired and put the whole thing togetrher and test fired again..all is good..once I put it into my bb and add the 510 screw in it says check atomizer....any ideas?
to big of a coil? but it fires on other mods.I even force down on chimney top to mimic the force of the top screw
 

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

Starting from a clean - authentic nautilus mini - with a brand new 1.6 (or 1.8 it makes no difference) coil (coils also verified as authentic).

1. Turn tank upside down - with tip removed and fill with juice.
2. Take base unit and set so no air holes are open.
3. Put a tiny bit of juice around the o ring of the base unit (i get the issues if I do this or not)
4. Put 2 small drops of juice into the coil (I get the issues if do this or not)
5. Screw the coil into the base unit (as tight as you can comfortably get it without going past the obvious stop point and damaging something)
6. Screw the coil/base unit into the tank.
7. Turn nautilus mini correct way up.
8. Move air hole to a middle setting.
9. Take some primer puffs with no power.
10. Leave standing for 5-10 mins.
11. Begin vaping gently at 6 watts - moving up slowly to 10.

Ive tried all types of juice - both high VG and high PG and in-between. Invariably at some point i start to get the gurgle. Ive tried the following fixes:

1. Using a paper towel blow gently out of the air hole to get rid of juice - doesn't work - if i kept on blowing id blow the whole tank of juice out.
2. Take the unit apart - most times there will be juice in the base unit underneath where the coil sits - dry this out - dry the coil off and repeat from step 2 above missing out steps 3 and 4. - this sometimes works but its a temporary fix.

There seems to be no pattern to the problem. Sometimes the gurgle starts as soon as ive changed the coil - sometimes its ok for a week. I have 2 units and 2 spare tanks and have rotated them all using the above method - still get the issues.

I have actually never experienced the burnt taste or reduced draw because Ive always got sick and binned the coil before that point.

I am vaping generally at 9.2 watts - but have tried as low as 7 and as high as 13 - it makes no difference.

I don't draw hard - I cannot understand why I keep getting juice in the air chamber - its not a problem with a "dud coil" unless they are all intermittently dud coils - they are all authentic aspire and I've bought them from different places - so its not a dodgy batch issue - the rings are all the correct way up - I have spent hours and hours researching to try to fix these issues - and cannot for the life of me maintain a stable nautilus mini.

Can anyone save me from madness and tell me what Im doing wrong - Im tending towards a conclusion of all nautilus mini components are junk at the moment.

Many thanks in advance  

This is bad, and what's worse is I know it's bad but I can't seem to stop. I keep buying mods and tanks and juice and accessories. I've been vaping for almost a year now and for the most part I was happy with my setup (once i got past the cheap ego battery setup I had). I was rockin an MVP 2.0 and a nautilus tank. Loved every second of it. But recently the MVP threads got messed up so no tank would connect to it. So I decided to upgrade my setup and get a Sigelei 150w. Now THIS thing is amazing.

You would think since I was happy with my setup that would be enough. NOPE! I ordered an RDA (Mad Hatter) to go with the sigelei because the nautilus just wasn't fully utilizing the mod. I ordered wire, wick, ohm meter, the whole kit and kaboodle. But I also ordered an MVP 3.0 Pro for the times the sigelei batteries were dead or I just needed a smaller device. Got the MVP in today and it's amazing. I definitely love Innokin products.

That's it though, right? NOPE! I haven't even recieved my RDA yet and I was browsing the interwebs looking at forums and reviews and came across the Kanger Subtank Mini. Looks awesome. So I ordered it. But not by itself, oh no no no, I saw a kit with a Kanger Subox Mini and Subtank Mini starter kit. So I ordered it. Oh god will the impulse buying ever stop!?

Let's not get into my juice collection. I have more bottles than I know what to do with. Originally it was a handful of bottles that could sit on my desk, now I've had to rearrange my dresser so the multitude of bottles can sit up there. I have so many flavors that I love that I keep switching them around and it's driving me crazy. And everytime I see one of you post about your new favorite all day vape flavor I look into it, think it sounds amazing, and end up buying more.

Aww screw it, I love vaping. I'm sure i'll buy something else real soon. Speaking of which...I could use a new drip tip to go with my new tanks. Gotta go.

(thanks for reading my rant)  

Problem

You've screwed your new atomizer into your mod. It's all the way in and works, but the atomizer wobbles.

Why? - Because the positive 510 connector is too long, meaning that only the front part of the negative threading is engaged.

Solution

A shim.

shim
/ʃɪm/
noun
a washer or thin strip of material used to align parts, make them fit, or reduce wear.

Cut a disk the same size as the base of the atomizer, put a hole in it's center slightly larger than the 510 on your atomizer. Slip this over the atomizer 510 and screw it into the mod, wobble gone.
The thickness of the shim will need to match your application. If it's too thick the 510 may not reach the positive pin and no juice will flow.
I initially used a credit card which was too thick (1mm), the positive pin didn't connect. I then used a playing card (0.5mm) and this was spot on.

Why? - The base of the atomizer is now supported, so the free play on the pin does not matter.


Owyhee Mountain Fiddle Shop: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

 

I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...

Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??

By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...  

I saw somewhere on this forum that you can use a beauty ring as a catch cup for RDA, so I bought those: Deck Beauty Ring for Entheon RDA Atomizer (5-Pack): FastTech Forums

Problem is that my atomizer doesn't screw completely and my vaporizer doesn't detect the atomizer so it doesn't work.

I don't really need it as it doesn't happen often that I over drip but it happens sometimes. Is there something I can do about this problem?