Youde Ud Zephyrus Sub-ohm Rta Or Lemo 2?

Anybody know if the Subtank RBA head will fit the new Subtank Plus? I would assume so, but. Same with the factory heads, are they interchangeable?

Im asking because my original subtank got stolen but I still have the RBA heads and factory heads left and Im wondering if they will work in the Plus.  

So....my lemo was my #1 RTA, until I got the subtank mini and delta 2 (although I haven't tried the delta 2 yet, but have heard very good things about it). I have been sad, because I have put my lemo to the side, because my newer RTAs have more airflow. I would vape my lemo most of the time between 25-30 watts, and could get it up to about 38 watts without a dry/burnt hit. Anything over 40 would give me a dry/burnt hit, which is still impressive. (with my old wicking method)

Long story short, I decided to drill out my airholes on my lemo. I found another guy that had already done this, so I followed his bit sizes. He claims that he now vapes his lemo around 70-80 watts without dry/burnt hits. I had my wisdom teeth out about 3 days ago, so I can not vape as I usually do (in fear of getting a dry socket) so I have had to barely hit my tanks to vape. I hit the lemo, after modding it, last night, at 40 watts with a wussy vape and no dry/burnt hit at all. I can't wait to actually vape like I usually do and see how high in wattage I can go. By the way, I am trying something new and using Drip Trippers pancake wicking method on this as well, and a 0.78 build.

So here are the pics, with the sizes, if anyone wants to do this. It took me about 15 minutes:



4 External air holes (pic 1) - 3/32 drill bit



Vertical stem shaft air hole (pic 2) - 1/8 drill bit


Vertical stem 4 air holes (pic 3) - 3/32 drill bit


Pancake wicking method.

 

Finally! I've tried so many sub ohm tanks with a shelf of them to prove it along with box mods and I've found my perfect set up that I'm 100 percent happy with. That urge of "must have more" and "must have the latest and greatest" has finally subsided after 100s of dollars spent. I can finally relax on hardware and focus on enjoying good juices. I still stay up on new tech but I'm finally happy on my go to juice vendor and hardware. Oh what a good feeling!

My goto set up: Atlantis V1 with cotton coils and 5ml upgrade and ipv mini 2 at 32 watts. Any higher then 32 and the vape is too warm to enjoy. To justify this, I personally own the following:

Atlantis V2
Subtank
Subtank mini using both Occ and rba
Delta I I using both coil and rba
Lemo
Lemo 2
Arctic tank
Starre tank
Herakles tank
Kayfun
Kay fun v4

Ipv mini 1
Istick 30
Istick 20
M50 with 65w upgrade

My go to juices are all from itcvapes. 20$ for 120ml for the win.

Time to sell off old items or give them to friends to help them quit smoking.

FYI I'm so busy that rebuilding isn't an option for me. It's much Cheaper, and I have a ton of kanthal in different gauges with a big bag of Koh Gen do, but I'd rather pay for convenience of coils.

Wonderful feeling!  

Love my Subtank RBA, but looking to explore.

So far the Lemo 2 is the best option in my opinion. Been wanting a top-fill tank for quite sometime too.

The Kayfun V4 looks beautiful, but i've read it doesn't handle sub-ohm too well?

What's the majority vote around here?  

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

Just look at this pic :


I will probably do that to mine too . Im pretty sure this is will be better than the orig RBA . So why do you think RTAs dont have that , RTAs like the Subtank , Lemo , Orchid etc. , even kayfuns ?  

Anybody have one yet? https://www.eleafus.com/image/cache...-Drop-Atomizer/lemo-drop-atomizer-600x600.png ,

I'm ready to upgrade from Protank and EGO bat. Was ready to pull trigger on Kayfun Nano and a Mech. Then I find this. I hear the Lemo is better than the Kayfun, But I don't want a 5ml tank. I want between 2 and 3 ml. I'm not after chasing clouds. I am out to vaporize a little bit of nicotine, instead of smoking a Marlboro. I figure I can get a little bit better Flavor, and a more consistant enjoyable vape, Than a EGO-T1100mah and Mini PT3 tank.  

I have recently purchased a DNA 40 device and feel like I have lost all my build knowledge!! I am using awg 28 wire if I do 10 wraps on a 2.5mm drill bit I get a reading of around .13 on any of my devices if I replicate the build on the Lemo it comes out .27 or above. What is going on can someone share any light on this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

Hello, I've been using the Aerotank giant with an eVic Joyetech 1st gen battery since 5 months ago and the glass of my tank broke a few weeks ago so, I'm looking for a new tank upgrade, I've seen good reviews about the KangerTech Sub Ohm but I havn't had the time to see reviews about other thanks and this one looks pretty cool, what other tanks are out there to compete with this one? Should I get this one? I'm ordering in the next 3 hours or so, so, any advice is welcomed!

Thanks in advance vapers!  

Just got this SX 350 mini M. It's been working beautifully sans a few issues that I am sure are user induced.

First off I will tell you that the Lemo 2 that came in at the same time is Freaking awesome. I have a Kanger Sub Lemo drop and now the Lemo 2. The Lemo 2 kicks *** I the airflow department. It's robust and easy as hell to fill. I put a 3mm coil in it and pancaked the wick. 9 wraps and it's coming in at .118 ohms. Awesome flavor production and nice thick vapor.

So I moved on to the Tugboat to see how Ni200 fairs in the RDA world on this particular device. I went bananas with my coil and ended up with this monstrosity.



I twisted two strands of 28g Ni200 together with a drill and wrapped it 17 times. It comes in at .06 ohms. Performance wise it takes a while to ramp up but when it does it produces thick vapor but towards the hot side. Another thing is that the drip too gets hot really quickly. I'm running it 50J and have the temp cut off at 425F. The hot drip tip is one of the issues I mentioned. I vaped this thing bone dry and didn't get any burnt taste.

Then I moved on to the Lemo drop. The manual had an interesting coil method reccomended so I decided to go for it.





This one I wrapped about 10 times on a 3mm driver. Stuffed a small amount of additional cotton down inside like the manual suggested. The problem is that it gets stupid hot (the drop tip) stupid fast. I'm running it at 17J because this one is coming in at .365 ohms.

Short story long the device itself is working great. I just need to find the sweet spot with this Ni200 coil wise. Any tips in that department would be greatly appreciated.

At the end of it all the LEMO 2 and the Mini M seem like they were made for one another.